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namela

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Well,

My second brew which is a larger was mixed on the 26 November, and was moved to a cooler location were the temp rarely exceeds 25 deg. All was well, airlock was bubbling away nicely but since the 3 December bubbling had stopped and when tested with the hydrometer on the 4th and 6th December and as of today, 8 December its still sitting on 1010? Doesn't look like its going to drop to the intended 1005 for bottling. Also the brew looks a bit on the cloudy side even after finings were stirred in when it did reach the 1010 mark.

Any ideas? Am I still on the right track and need to be patient?

Many thanks in advance.

Paul


larger brew.JPG
 
Hi Paul,

Firstly, as pedantic as it may sound, it's ''lager'', not ''larger'' (a common error). Sorry to sound pompous.

Secondly, if you want to accurately predict what the FG should actually be, you need to consider all the ingredients that went into it. A straight kit and kilo of sugar will have a different FG to a kit that uses dry malt extract or one of the brew enhancer/brew booster packs for example (even if the starting gravity is the same). 1010 is quite possibly finished. As said - ingredients dependent.

Thirdly, 25 is way too hot and if you consider that fermentation generates its own heat, ambient 25 could mean the brew was at 27-28 for a while when active. Most ales will do better around 18-22, most genuine lagers (no idea if yours was lager in name or included a real lager yeast) will be better much lower - around 9-12, depending on the actual yeast strain.

Cloudiness will usually drop with time, cold helps, finings help, patience helps. Some types of cloudiness may have causes that time won't heal but if it's just yeast in suspension then exercise patience.
 
Bottle it up Brother.
And put it down to experience when it comes tasting time.
 
Probably finished at this higher ferment temp.

Will most likely stay cloudy, cold crashing it might help it out.

Lagers like to ferment at low temps 12 degrees is a common start point.

If it remains the same reading over 24 hours, bottle it.

If you are in higher ambient temps thru out summer. You could try and brew Saison style beers as the require mid 20's type temps.
There are many styles offering light and heavy body beers.
 
I wouldn't be advising bottling until we know what was in it. Kit may have included dry enzyme for example. Exploding glass hurts.
 
manticle said:
Hi Paul,

Firstly, as pedantic as it may sound, it's ''lager'', not ''larger'' (a common error). Sorry to sound pompous.

Secondly, if you want to accurately predict what the FG should actually be, you need to consider all the ingredients that went into it. A straight kit and kilo of sugar will have a different FG to a kit that uses dry malt extract or one of the brew enhancer/brew booster packs for example (even if the starting gravity is the same).

Thirdly, 25 is way too hot and if you consider that fermentation generates its own heat, ambient 25 could mean the brew was at 27-28 for a while when active. Most ales will do better around 18-22, most genuine lagers (no idea if yours was lager in name or included a real lager yeast) will be better much lower - around 9-12, depending on the actual yeast strain.

Cloudiness will usually drop with time, cold helps, finings help, patience helps. Some types of cloudiness may have causes that time won't heal but if it's just yeast in suspension then exercise patience.
Thanks Manticle for your advice, this is cooler compared to my garage where the first one was produced! :) The Larger was a miss-spell evidently but thanks for pointing that out, finding the right spot in the house during the Aussie heat is a job in itself, thinking about the sugar that first went into the upon mixing was a bag of dextrose with malt? I will keep at it and see what happens. Many thanks again.

Stouter said:
Bottle it up Brother.
And put it down to experience when it comes tasting time.
Thanks Stouter, will leave it until the weekend and test again, I'm in no rush to bottle just yet!!

TwoCrows said:
Probably finished at this higher ferment temp.

Will most likely stay cloudy, cold crashing it might help it out.

Lagers like to ferment at low temps 12 degrees is a common start point.

If it remains the same reading over 24 hours, bottle it.

If you are in higher ambient temps thru out summer. You could try and brew Saison style beers as the require mid 20's type temps.
There are many styles offering light and heavy body beers.
Thanks for your words of wisdom, as mentioned before can't find a place cool enough in the house. Will have a look at the Saison type beers. Thanks again for the heads up.
 
Agreed with manticle. At the very least, if you insist on bottling, cold crash and gelatin for a few days first to pull out as much yeast as possible
 
Bottle in plastic if you can. Have you checked your hydrometer in fresh water? It may be out a couple of points too. Not unheard of.
 
mtb said:
Agreed with manticle. At the very least, if you insist on bottling, cold crash and gelatin for a few days first to pull out as much yeast as possible
Thanks, what do you mean by cold crash? And how much gelatin? Thanks for the quick reply.
 
Bridges said:
Bottle in plastic if you can. Have you checked your hydrometer in fresh water? It may be out a couple of points too. Not unheard of.
My bottles are the plastic ones, what should the settings be in cold water? Sorry for the dumb questions....
 
namela said:
Thanks, what do you mean by cold crash? And how much gelatin? Thanks for the quick reply.
Cold crashing your beer means to cool it as close to 1 degree celsius to drop as much suspended trub/crud out of your beer as possible so it doesn't end up in your beer. Combining that with a bit of gelatin (see here for guide) will make that process more effective (want crystal clear beer?)

Of course this means you'll need to find yourself a fridge with space, and since you fermented without one, I assume you don't have one handy.. but it's very much worth it to buy one. As mentioned by others here, temp controlled fermentation is definitely worth the investment in a fridge.
 
namela said:
My bottles are the plastic ones, what should the settings be in cold water? Sorry for the dumb questions....
Modern hydrometers are calibrated to 20C, so measure water at that temp. It should read 1.00, anything higher or lower is a discrepancy you should factor into every future reading with that hydrometer.
 
mtb said:
Modern hydrometers are calibrated to 20C, so measure water at that temp. It should read 1.00, anything higher or lower is a discrepancy you should factor into every future reading with that hydrometer.
Thanks for that will test and see....
 
mtb said:
Cold crashing your beer means to cool it as close to 1 degree celsius to drop as much suspended trub/crud out of your beer as possible so it doesn't end up in your beer. Combining that with a bit of gelatin (see here for guide) will make that process more effective (want crystal clear beer?)

Of course this means you'll need to find yourself a fridge with space, and since you fermented without one, I assume you don't have one handy.. but it's very much worth it to buy one. As mentioned by others here, temp controlled fermentation is definitely worth the investment in a fridge.
Understanding the Cold crashing, I have a second fridge in the garage? Didn't know I could use this??? Please tell me more!!
 
(you're about to get your brewing world blown)
 
mtb said:
(you're about to get your brewing world blown)
Now I know why you are called the Beer God! If i were to do another batch obviously after this one when it finishes, did you say you can control the temperature by fermenting the brew in the fridge?? This could end being the coolest place in the house!!
 

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