S-189 finally being rolled out in 11.5g packs

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I thought it was funny as haha

I've been waiting all day for you to come in and start something

Total let down :(
 
technobabble66 said:
How does one sprinkle into wort?
No go forth and sprinkle, sprinkle!

6693ae54d476eaa56e35a10ba625d755.jpg
 
Great yeast. Will be good to have it on the shelf at the local to brew without considering fly in times when schwartzbier craving hits.
 
Malty Cultural said:
I have done this a couple of times with APAs and it has worked really well.
fully. somebody here made the suggestion to make an IPL on the cake of the previous lager brewed with S-189. Was a great idea, worked a treat.
 
Cool. So from what I read this would be pretty sweet for a dunkel? It's been too long...
 
technobabble66 said:
In all seriousness, why the hell does the packet say *ideally* 15-20*c and then the spec sheet/pdf say ideally 12-15*c.
WTF?!

Surely someone would've checked these before printing, etc!
Maybe it doesn't matter. :ph34r:
 
This will no doubt start another round of flaming...but here we go.

I never rehydrate. No point. Have done both and don't notice any difference what so ever.
Not even with dry lager yeasts, you just have to pitch the right amount.
 
So.... I did a search to find out the optimum ferment temp for this yeast as I haven't used it before but looks interesting . Seems it has been a source of some animated discussion previously!

I now have some on the way to try in a Euro Lager. I have temp control so can do any temp within the range Fermentis recommend. What do others think is the optimum for the given style and what differences could I expect between ferments at either end of the temp scale?
 
I have had very good results at 10-12oC. Leaves a very clean, crisp beer at the end. Pitch the right amount (you'll need 2 12g packets for a 23L batch) and aerate properly and you won't have much issue with sulphur odours/flavour like alot of other strains either. Great yeast.

At the other end of the scale, I'd be expecting a heap more sulphur to be thrown being a lager strain, as the yeast MAY become stressed
 
Just to be a bit more specific to set you on a path that's acceptable, I use the following fermentation schedule, it seems to work well for me.

First week is primary fermentation, 10-12oC.

Second week, take gravity reading. If it's at 1.020 or less, set the temp controller to 16oC and let it go up as far as it wants for a diacetyl rest. This is necessary when doing a lager yeast. Raising the temp basically makes the yeast process any diacetyl/other compounds that may be present from the cold fermentation.

Third and fourth week I just lager in primary at around 2oC, then transfer to keg.
 
I whacked some of this yeast in my Euro Lager nearly 3 weeks ago. Fermented originally at 13C for 5 days before lifting to 20C for a week (fast lager method). It has now been cold crashed at 1C for nearly a week with whirlfloc added after day 2. Sample tasting very nice however it is surprisingly cloudy still given it is designated as highly flocculent. I will get some finings tomorrow and see if it will drop out but was interested to know if others have experienced the same?
 
Killer Brew said:
with whirlfloc added after day 2.
Isn't whirlfloc added to the boil with 10mins to go? As such it wouldn't do much being added after day 2. Gelatine can be added just before cold crashing to clear though.
 
Dozer71 said:
Isn't whirlfloc added to the boil with 10mins to go? As such it wouldn't do much being added after day 2. Gelatine can be added just before cold crashing to clear though.

Sorry, polyclar not whirlfloc. Scrambled brain at the moment courtesy of a colicky 5 week old.
 
pist said:
This will no doubt start another round of flaming...but here we go.

I never rehydrate. No point. Have done both and don't notice any difference what so ever.
Not even with dry lager yeasts, you just have to pitch the right amount.
There is always discussion on this. Reading the fermentis spec sheet, you only need to aerate if you DONT rehydrate. Someone put me straight on here about this ages ago. I'd been using liquid and O2 for years, then used a dry and O2, which lagged badly, which brought up a similar discussion to this.
Below is a copy of their instructions on the spec sheet**

Having said that, I've been giving M10 workhorse a crack lately and have been hitting expected FG with the correct pitch rate, rehydrated and no O2 or any attempt to aerate.
So, I assume, as many like to aerate by pouring from a height, that you could sprinkle (if you can get it into (onto) the wort). Why not just rehydrate and not bother with aerating or oxygenating?

**REHYDRATION INSTRUCTIONS: Sprinkle the yeast in minimum 10 times its weight of sterile water or wort at 23°C ± 3°C (73°F ± 6°F). Leave to rest 15 to 30 minutes. Gently stir for 30 minutes, and pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel. Alternatively, pitch the yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20°C (68°F). Progressively sprinkle the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes, then mix the wort using aeration or by wort addition.
 
Back
Top