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Bribie G

Adjunct Professor
Joined
9/6/08
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Super Landlord

Ale - English Best (Special) Bitter
All Grain
* * * * * 1 Votes

Brewer's Notes

BIAB recipe. 90 min mash at 67 degrees, 90 min boil, caramelise 2L of wort down to 300 ml and return to the boil. Note no late hopping. Ferment below 20 but not too cool as pushing a wee bit of ester here.

Malt & Fermentables

% KG Fermentable
5 kg TF Golden Promise Pale Malt
0.5 kg Weyermann Munich I
0.06 kg Weyermann Melanoidin
0.06 kg JWM Chocolate Chit Malt
0.5 kg Cane Sugar

Hops

Time Grams Variety Form AA
25 g Fuggles (Pellet, 4.5AA%, 90mins)
25 g Goldings, East Kent (Pellet, 5.0AA%, 90mins)
25 g Styrian Goldings (Pellet, 5.4AA%, 60mins)

Yeast

30 ml Wyeast Labs 1187 - Ringwood Ale

Misc

1 tablet Whirfloc
24L Batch Size

Brew Details

  • Original Gravity 1.059 (calc)
  • Final Gravity 1.018 (calc)
  • Bitterness 39 IBU
  • Efficiency 70%
  • Alcohol 5.32%
  • Colour 18 EBC

Fermentation

  • Primary 10 days
  • Secondary 7 days
  • Conditioning 3 days
 
Mash temp?

Also did you perform any water additions/modifications, or jsut filter it through an old sock?

Cheers SJ
 
Looks interesting there Bribie, were the 90min hops FWH or added at start of boil?

Brad
 
Wow you guys are quick :) , I've just done the final edit so all ok now. The only water addition was 5.2 stabiliser, I totally forgot about putting in any Calcium etc which has given me food for thought, hey.

Sugaz is to represent the UK practice of putting in up to 10 percent sugar in many bitters and milds. This started at the beginning of the 20th century along with the use of some maize in many of the brews, as there were malt shortages / rationing, 2 world wars etc and I guess it's just part of the taste profile nowadays although I'm sure than many of the newer Micros and Craft breweries are using grain only. I was reading an article from the 1920s where they were moaning about the large amounts of brewing sugars used even back then in the Inter-war era which is sometimes regarded as a golden age of UK bitters and milds. UK is a major sugar producer (beet) and so they have no doubt snuck in a bit over the years following a similar practice to Australian brewers and our status as a major sugar producer.

The Weyermann malts are to give more malt aroma and complexity. Talking to Ross over a pint of it yesterday and he said that a lot of the UK home brewers are also using UK 'aromatic' malts available in the UK that are not unlike the Wey products so it's not as radical as I thought when I did the brew. B)

Ringwood yeast smacked and started with a couple of tablespoons of LDME in a Schott bottle and pitched next day.


67 degrees mash. There is a bit of controversy about whether BIAB produces more dextrinous worts than 3-V, dunno. Maybe Pistol Patch would know.

I've got a keg in my new keggerator and it's a bit chill hazed if you want to drink it below 10 degrees so prolly best to Polyclar it as well. I've got it a bit cold because I also have and Aussie Pale in there as well.

Cheers :icon_cheers:

Edit: hops added at start of 90 min boil when foam subsided. Funny you should mention, Brad but I did a sort of FWH with a Yorkshire 'Summer Ale' I did a couple of weeks ago by just putting the hopsock in while bringing to boil, interesting to see how it turns out aroma wise.
 
BribieG,

Can you describe your process for caramelising the wort please? I am very interested in this process as I see a few using it like yourself and Screwy in particular and wouldn't mind having a shot.

So obviously you produce your wort and draw 2lts of 1st runnings? And then vigeriously boil while you mash out etc to get a volume of around 300ml. I imagine that takes some time to do so do you wait until it's almost there and then start your boil? Sorry prolly seems straight forward but I'm trying to bed the procedure in my head.

Cheers

Chappo
 
Hi Chappo,

I'vebeen planning to try this on a brew in the near future and my idea was to collect 2 ltrs into a separate pot, and place this on one of those little butane powered camping gas stoves (being that i'm in the garage not near the kitchen). Then boil this until it reduces sufficiently. Mean while the brewing process can continue as per normal and the reduced wort is added back to the kettle once ready.

This is my understanding/plan, please correct me if i'm wrong Bribie.

Cheers SJ
 
Cheers SJ!

What type of boil do you aim for? Very vigorious? It's just when i do the math on evaporation rates it's going to take at least 1 1/2 - 2 hours to boil down from 2lts to 300ml say (subject to the "ish" rule)

Cheers

Chappo
 
I was planning a vigourous boil. As mentioned, this is only my plan, i haven't done it yet!!!

Cheers SJ

Edit: The 'ish' rule, very closely related to K, the universal correction factor!
 
I recon you easily get 2L of wort down to 300ml in 30min at a flat out boil in a wide pot. think about making pasta sauce or soup when you simmer for 1.5hrs you easily loose a1w of water, so i recon flat out boil (or just under) and in 30min you'd be done,

edit: forgot to mention that it looks like a nice drop indeed. i might do one and drop the goldings for some more styrian. love styrian. or maybe keep the goldings and just add more styrian anyways
 
I like your plan SJ and I am more curious of the process so I can get the procedure into my rather think cranium, it's just that I fugure by the time you have reduced your caramelised wort enough your plum at the end of your 90mins boil time including sparge and etc.

Cheers

Chappo
 
I recon you easily get 2L of wort down to 300ml in 30min at a flat out boil in a wide pot. think about making pasta sauce or soup when you simmer for 1.5hrs you easily loose a1w of water, so i recon flat out boil (or just under) and in 30min you'd be done,

edit: forgot to mention that it looks like a nice drop indeed. i might do one and drop the goldings for some more styrian. love styrian. or maybe keep the goldings and just add more styrian anyways

Ahhh! Of course wide pot/pan... god I am a dumbarse? :rolleyes: D'oh <slaps hand on forehead hard!> makes sense now I was thinking along the lines of my extract days in a stock pot! Cheers CM2!

Chappo

EDIT: BTW this a cracking Beer I had a good taste test of this at Bribie's. Brilliant beer! But it is the caramelisation that makes this beer IMO hence the questions re above.
 
i recon a big stockpot would do. say a 20-30L one.

I did a simialr thing with my scottish heavy, but then again that was easy as it was an extract version.

I recon it must be off your first runnings. take the first 2 L, boil the crap out of it whilst you continue to take the rest of the runnings and hopefully it should be done before you boil is finished. should matter even if youi had to add 300ml back to the wort after boil had finished. not like its going to dilute it or you need the volume. am i right?
 
I did this recently with 2-3 litres of first runnings in a 10 litre stockpot.
It reduced to under a litre in 30 minutes or so with a steady (not flat out) boil.
Can't be more accurate because I didn't measure anything.
 
There is a bit of controversy about whether BIAB produces more dextrinous worts than 3-V, dunno. Maybe Pistol Patch would know.

less dextrinous, higher attenuation. At least that's what TB said in the BB interview. Having tried your mild, I don't think it's a particularly valid concern, though. Body seemed right to me, given that I know what was in it, and know how you made it...

+1 on the german malts, though....I have no issue using german malt in UK beers, cos they're a damn fine product. In fact, my latest bitter is golden promise + wey munich 1 in equal quantaties....only cos I couldn't get my hands on any more GP atm....but the result is so nice, I think I might stick to that, anyway.... :chug:
 
I'm doing a caramelisation right now!

Actually it was Screwtop who put me onto caramelisation in the first place with a recipe for Sam Smith's Old Brewery Bitter, which I haven't got round to yet, but I thought that if it's good enough for Tadcaster then it's bloody well good enough for Keighley, hey Butters (insert icon of clog dancing Yorkshiremen).

I'm doing a very similar brew ATM. I ran out of bloody Fuggles AND EKG so will be subbing Challenger, Northdown and Styrian Goldings with a tad less hops overall as the Challenger and Northdown are 7 or 8 % alpha. The Styrians will save the day I'm sure. I notice that many of the UK regional brewers, if you look at their sites, are fairly open about their hops and a three hop brew seems to be the go in their special best bitters, e.g Brains S.A. Gold.


In my case - BIAB - because what comes out of the bag is basically the finished sweet wort I just grabbed two litres out of the tap. Having said that I did a sparge in a bucket as well to make up for the volume I had stolen out of the urn, and of course a bit of extra efficiency as well, so the wort in the stockpot started a wee tad stronger but not by much.

caramel.JPG

OK all done, starting with 2L of sweet wort I ended up with a middy about 300ml and it tastes like a very aromatic toffee malt extract and quite sticky. Took 80 minutes on a somewhat dodgy electric ring. Gas would definitely get it evaporated faster. I have 15 mins to end of boil so going to pour the caramel in now. Absolutely lerve the colour :icon_cheers:
 
(insert icon of clog dancing Yorkshiremen).

A little known fact is that Abba aren't Swedish at all....prior to their fame, they were a clog dancing trio from Hebden Bridge. :ph34r:

:lol:
 
Ok, now I'm thinking of getting into this caramelising thing myself. I get the big pot thing so I can really get a serious boil going but here's my question. If it is a big wide pot and it is boiling like buggery how can you accurately tell when you have 300ml left? I have just wacked 300ml of water into the bottom of a big pot in my kitchen and trying to measure it with a dipstick it could be anything from 200 to 400. Is it the final volume not critical as long as it tastes caramely?

Cheers
H
 

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