quick question
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gsouth82
Well-Known Member
I make all mine to 20L (for kegging) and find the taste is much better. Everything is a little more concentrated including taste (malt and hops), alcohol and deliciousness.
Ahh the freedom of homebrewing! You don't need to fill to 23L for the reasons mentioned above, furthermore (assuming you're following instructions on the packet) don't add the yeast at 21-27 degrees, aim for 18-21, you'll have better beer.
... AND you can even use 2 CANS instead of 1 can and 1kg of sugar. So many options!! Ahh the freedom of homebrewing!
Enjoy!
... AND you can even use 2 CANS instead of 1 can and 1kg of sugar. So many options!! Ahh the freedom of homebrewing!
Enjoy!
The reason for the 23L is that's almost exactly 5 old Imperial Gallons, which was the "standard" home brew volume in the old days, and they have kept it at that for compatability with old books, recipes. More importantly Coopers kits are geared towards five gallons, that enables them to sell you exactly two boxes of bottles. 
Another way of looking at it is that longnecks are still almost exactly 26 fluid ounces, stubbies 13. So taking five gallons to be 5*8pints*20 ounces = 800 ounces
800/26 = 30.7692
So it all hangs together, but in the case of kegging that's all out of the window nowadays.
Another way of looking at it is that longnecks are still almost exactly 26 fluid ounces, stubbies 13. So taking five gallons to be 5*8pints*20 ounces = 800 ounces
800/26 = 30.7692
So it all hangs together, but in the case of kegging that's all out of the window nowadays.
barabool
Well-Known Member
Don't do it -----The world will end!!!!! :lol:
I assume you're talking about the hydrometer. It's really simple and there are heaps of YouTube tutorials to watch, some are better than others so find the one that works for you. Here's two that I watched a while back and .itsposs said:
Here's a tip so you're down with the language:
To calculate the amount of alcohol in beer we measure the 'Specific Gravity' or 'S.G' (a measure of density). To do this we use a hydrometer. A hydrometer placed in distilled water at approximately 16 degrees C should read 1.000, this is a good way to test if your hydrometer is accurate.
O.G = 'Original Gravity'. The density of your beer before fermentation (or the amount of sugar). This will probably say 1.045 or 1.070 or something like that. Depends how much sugar is in your beer. From memory a standard kit and 1kg sugar is about 1.043.
F.G = 'Final Gravity'. The density of the beer AFTER fermentation. This may say 1.020 or lower for beer.
If you have taken these measurements (one before fermentation and one after) then you will be able to calculate how much alcohol is in your beer, for example 5% abv.
Hot tips:
1. Try and do all your measurements at 16 -18 deg C. This is when to hydrometer will be the most accurate.
2. Your beer is ready to bottle when the hydrometer reading has not changed over a 48 hour period, although it's ok to leave your beer for an extra week for good measure. It should hopefully read around 1.005, 1.000 is even better because there's no more sugar! Woo hoo! Some kits finish at 1.020 or 1.015, don't stress it's just getting a feel for the craft.
Of course, if you already knew all of that mumbo jumbo then good for you! Hazaar!!
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MrTwalky said:
Every hydrometer i have ever used has been designed to be calibrated at 20c. That may be why you are getting such a low FG on some kits. Unless you were using saison yeast.
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Maybe it depends on the maker of the hydrometer. I dug the instructions out of my brew folder and it says calibrate at 16c, I don't know the maker of the hydrometer but it's about 7 years old and came out of a Brewcraft starter kit (I think). I get 1.000 in water at that temp.wereprawn said:
I guess work on the temp that it's calibrated for. Thanks for the input though, never really questioned the 16c, and I've never broken a hydrometer hence never used a different one. I do use a refractometer pretty regularly now, with an equation for post-fermentation use.
