punkin
Rarely Serious
- Joined
- 25/6/11
- Messages
- 2,116
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- 345
Hoping i can show someone how simple it really is to set up for allgrain brewing. Luckily i had nearly all the gear i needed for my other hobbies and there was little i had to do besides some reading and a little work making manifolds and immersion chillers etc...
The end result is beer that is light years ahead of the Kit and Kilo i've been brewing for the last thirty years, for around the same price per keg. The only thing i regret is that i hadn't converted over years ago.
I start with a Brewmate recipe and brewday sheet. I convert the recipes from some of the database reicpes here (this ones a Smurto Golden) and just scale up with the software. This is so simple and tells you all the targets you have to meet, how much water at what temp for how long ect.
Then crack the malts with my Crankenstein mill...
18 odd kilos of grain for this batch fills a couple of twenty litre buckets..
I have a 50l beer keg on a 3 ring burner that i use for other projects. This is my hot water kettle. It helps with the water heating that i have run an insulated line from the solar hot water system before the temper valve into my brew shed. I start with water anywhere tween 65 and 90C...
I use graduated buckets and a floating thermometer to get my strike water right with near boiling water mixed with hot or cold water to extend the range of my 50l kettle...
In this case 3 x 15l's and an 8l has me dead on...
Add the water and grain to a large 120l esky that i had and made a manifold for using John Palmers calculations..
This shot is actually during the sparge where there's 75l of sparge water added, but you get the idea.
Then i drain back into the buckets (adding up the litres and recording as i go) and into my 160l pot (which i also just happened to already have) sitting on a 4 ring burner.
These burners really pack some heat when run on a HP regulator, so much so that the first runnings are boiling while the sparge is sitting.
The end result is beer that is light years ahead of the Kit and Kilo i've been brewing for the last thirty years, for around the same price per keg. The only thing i regret is that i hadn't converted over years ago.
I start with a Brewmate recipe and brewday sheet. I convert the recipes from some of the database reicpes here (this ones a Smurto Golden) and just scale up with the software. This is so simple and tells you all the targets you have to meet, how much water at what temp for how long ect.
Then crack the malts with my Crankenstein mill...
18 odd kilos of grain for this batch fills a couple of twenty litre buckets..
I have a 50l beer keg on a 3 ring burner that i use for other projects. This is my hot water kettle. It helps with the water heating that i have run an insulated line from the solar hot water system before the temper valve into my brew shed. I start with water anywhere tween 65 and 90C...
I use graduated buckets and a floating thermometer to get my strike water right with near boiling water mixed with hot or cold water to extend the range of my 50l kettle...
In this case 3 x 15l's and an 8l has me dead on...
Add the water and grain to a large 120l esky that i had and made a manifold for using John Palmers calculations..
This shot is actually during the sparge where there's 75l of sparge water added, but you get the idea.
Then i drain back into the buckets (adding up the litres and recording as i go) and into my 160l pot (which i also just happened to already have) sitting on a 4 ring burner.
These burners really pack some heat when run on a HP regulator, so much so that the first runnings are boiling while the sparge is sitting.