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Parti-gyle Lautering

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big d

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i reckon the jovial monk has a good handle on this one but has anyone tried it and what have your results been like...

for those that are not sure of this method it is simply the practice of drawing off a portion of the mash liquid or first runnings for a strong beer,adding more hot water and drawing off a second and sometimes third weaker running for a successively lower gravity beer.
old english beers were rated xxx, xx and x on the runnings.and i know the belgian beers are tied up in this as well.dubbels,trippels etc

cheers
big d
 

johnno

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that sounds interesting big d
sounds logical too , maybe done for economical reasons/?
think i was reading somewhere about how it was also associated with different classes in those days.
the better of you were the better quality of beer you could get etc
maybe one of the AG brewers could try or has tried it
I know I would sooner or later if i brewed Ag

cheers
 

big d

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its an interesting subject johnno.while im waiting for my grain order to arrive im doing heaps of research on the net on ag brewing.
its another thing i want to try depending on others experience but then again i may give it a burl anyway at some stage.
reckon i will keep first runnings for myself and the last ones for the mates.gotta be better than what there drinking now. :lol:

big d B)
 

johnno

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thats an idea
convert them by giving them the second or third runnings then tell em they were drinking the "peasant" beer :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

JasonY

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Never tried it but I reckon you would need to do a big mash to make it worth the effort. If you were just mashing 5kg or so then the first runnings would only give you a small brew .... If you dounled up to say 10 - 12 kg the first runnings would give you a normal batch I guess with the second giving you a light beer.

Only done 10 AG brews and they have all been APAa and English bitters .... too much more for me to try yet before I start thinking about any of this stuff :)

May try a wheat beer when I get some temp control happening. :chug:
 

big d

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back up the top this thread goes so jm doesnt miss it.im keen on hearing his comments about partigyle brewing.
 
J

Jovial_Monk

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Hmmm partigyle brewing. Once I got my 51L mashtun setup pg became possible, with the shop and me working 6 days a week it became necessary. Some may tell you that it is not worth it but I bet they have no idea how to do it. It lengthens the brewday a bit but you get twice the beer! I also boil the second beer with the spent hops of the first beer (must be that thrifty Dutch soul) I typically have 15-16Kg of grain in the tun when partigyling.

Use a 1/3 2/3 split. Then the first runnings beer has half the volume and twice the gravity of the second runnings beer, e.g. 20l of 1080 first runnings beer and 40l of 1040 beer. i hate thin tasteless beers so I say I will have 25l of beer one in kettle post boil and 50L of the second for the purpose of working out the recipe, but really aim for 22L and 32L. (Don't start your AG brewing with the notion that a 95% efficiency is barely enough! 75% is plenty, stop sparging when last runnings are like 1020, etc)

first beer has 25 * 50 total grav units, second beer 50 * 40 multiply all that out, divide by 75 and that is the OG of the total volume of beer. Use this to work out a recipe. Assume 15K of grain

Crush the grain, into the tun. Now, HM water to add? For 20l of beer in the fermenter we need, say, 25L of wort collected. If we add 30L of water to the grain, 15 x 1.01L will be retained by the grains, meaning we can collect 14.85l of wort. If we mash out with 10l of water, we will collect enough for the first beer.

The enzymes etc are no longer working or significant, run in as much water as the tun will hold for the second beer. Make the second mash hotter than the first one. Now, there is nothing stopping you from beefing up the second runnings by chucking in some crystal, black malt etc before adding the second lot of water.

Towards the end of the boil/chilling etc of the first beer start running out the second wort. As I said I use the spent hops from the first beer as the bittering hops for the second:- this results in a slightly too-bitter second beer but that fades quickly. your brewday is lengthened by the length of the secon boil, but I end up with over 50l of beer instead of just 23L.

And think about that first beer. It is made from the first runnings of double the amount of grain then is needed just for the first beer. Can you say rich? Malty? it wil have half the flavor of the combined volumes of the beer at least in just 1/3 the volume.

Don't try and run out a third beer!


Phew. one long post! where is my glass of beer?????


Jovial Monk
PS: buy the "Homebrewers Companion" by Randy Mosher. It covers the sort of detail Daniels assumes you have. Al Korzona's book (only one Volume got written) is also great as is Greg Noonan's "New Brewing Lager Beer"
 

big d

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thanks very much jm i owe you one.
my system bar the mash tun is made up of 75litre kegs so good to handle 50l brews with the help of an added esky mash tun.should be good to experiment with the pg way of brewing.
 

wedge

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JM do you stock this books
 
J

Jovial_Monk

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Sorry, Wedge, I don't

I have Randy's book but not the others. Bought it from a HBS in the States.

keep your eye on the brewbook part of the Borders bookshop. Occasionally they get in a great book, sell it real quick then don't get more. Dunno why they don't realise good brewbooks sell!

Jovial Monk
 

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