New Drive For My Crankandstein Mill

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kirem

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I blew up my Hitachi drill last weekend running the mill - NOT happy.

So I have thinking about what to do. So I went to Bunnings for some inspiration. I was going to go down the large motor and use pulleys to bring the speed of the mill down.

And then found this 'drill' for $99

I saw 0-550rpm under no load, ideal for low speed/high torque. 1050W (probably pmp but still plenty for the mill) 119Nm and variable speed drive - I thought perfect. Next job was to find one in the store.

I wondered on the way home if the chuck size would be large enough and it is.

I am brewing this evening - teaching a guy from work. So I will let you know how it handles.

View attachment 13226
 
I blew up my Hitachi drill last weekend running the mill - NOT happy.

So I have thinking about what to do. So I went to Bunnings for some inspration.

And found this 'drill' for $99

I saw 0-550rpm under no load, ideal for low speed/high torque. 1050W (probably pmp but still plenty for the mill) I thought perfect. Next job was to find one in the store.

I wondered on the way home if the chuck sie would be large enough and it is.

I am brewing this evening - teaching some guys from work. So I will let you know how it fairs.

View attachment 13225


Looks like the Ryobi EID10502K same as mine, got mine cheap from cash converters, they don't even get warm driving the Crank on low speed Kirem. Can use it really slow for a top crush, takes about 4 min to do 5Kg.

Screwy
 
I blew up my Hitachi drill last weekend running the mill - NOT happy.

So I have thinking about what to do. So I went to Bunnings for some inspiration. I was going to go down the large motor and use pulleys to bring the speed of the mill down.
...
And then found this 'drill' for $99

Kirem,

If you blew up your Hitachi, I don't like the chances of an Ozito lasting very long...

Typically you can halve the ratings these cheap drills claim for power, they aren't rated for continuous use.
But if you only use it for five minutes at a time it might last longer. $99 is not really a bargain though... Consider getting a big Makita with metal gearbox and two or three speeds.

As someone who works in the hardware industry I have seen hundreds of cheap power tools come back after 10 minutes use totally rooted. The chinese factories that make them use the minimum quality available for parts and places like Bunnings should be shot for comparing them with decent power tools.
 
I needed something that was designed to work around 300rpm.

My Hitachi was wound down to a very slow speed and I don't think it was very happy working at a slow speed.

I don't normally buy the cheap brands, but the only others they had - a Dewalt at about $400 and another brand, I think it was a Bosch or something similar and had a similar price tag. Milling is all this drill will do and about 5-10mins work every now again.

It is a major refit to put in a motor and pulley system and I really want/need to brew tonight and the 'drill' is a walkup fit. I am still considering a better engineered solution.

I will get a real drill to replace the Hitachi and I may even look at the cost of replacing the burnt out rotor - as it was a great drill.

Can you please PM me if you have a contact for Hitachi spare parts.


Kirk
 
Hitachi make excellent drills, if you stuffed that, then an elcheapo will last bugger all. One possible option might be the elcheapo rotary hammer drills that bunnings sell for $70-80. You know the ones, they are a big solid looking things with the motor at right angles to the drill bit, I think they run pretty slow too.

cheers

Browndog
 
i have a wood say in the same brand.

Australian made....... aparently they have a replacement warenty or something...... if you blow it up in the waranty period, they replace it.

My saw is a ripper, very happy

cheers
 
I know this is a late addition to this post, but I also run the Crankandstein mill. I used an XD Falcon wiper motor to drive mine, after also destroying a drill and getting tired of standing around waiting. The wiper motor does a great job!

Check out... http://rims-brewing.tripod.com/rims_brewing_malt_mill.htm

Or for the short footage of the mill/motor in use.

The wiper motors are pretty nice, good constant rate, plenty of torque. I use one of those $30 battery jumper boxes from Super Cheap Auto to power it. I have even used one of the wiper motors to power the stirrer on my HLT now.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Has anyone used the cheap rotary hammer drill that Aldi are selling just now for driving their mill.
My hand drill gets a bit warm when doing a lot of wheat and $59 for a big-arsed drill (850W IIRC, motor at right angles - it's on the front of this weeks flyer) seems a bargain.

Campbell
who wants to keep his little one good for screwing <_<
 
Have bought a cheap chinese hammer drill from Bunnings for $14 over a year ago for the mill and its still cranking.
 
Bought an XU-1 variable speed drill from Bunnings a few years back for under $15 just for crushing. Still going strong. It does get warm after 10kg. If the crush is 20kg, I let it cool down midway.
 
Bought an XU-1 variable speed drill from Bunnings a few years back for under $15 just for crushing. Still going strong. It does get warm after 10kg. If the crush is 20kg, I let it cool down midway.
I think I bought the same one to finish my arcade cabinet when my Bosch drill died 4 years ago. Haven't crushed grain with it, but it hasn't complained about what I have asked of it.
 
Has anyone used the cheap rotary hammer drill that Aldi are selling just now for driving their mill.
My hand drill gets a bit warm when doing a lot of wheat and $59 for a big-arsed drill (850W IIRC, motor at right angles - it's on the front of this weeks flyer) seems a bargain.

Campbell
who wants to keep his little one good for screwing <_<
I bought one yesterday and put 1/2Kg through as a test - hardly slowed down. Worked a lot better than my little Makita which won't turn the roller at all. 'm not sure the 850rpm is optimal though.

Gerard
 

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