Move To All Grain For Thirty Bucks

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*******,

Nothing be learned from people doing this kinda stuff for years is there?

Magical extra vessel? Huh, do you only have one pot in your kitchen?

Just in case you did not realise, mash temp wort is about 30 degrees C cooler than black coffee ;)

Anyhow, last post in this thread.

Sorry again for thinking out of the square.

cheers

Darren

Edit: Manticle. I suspect SV will only melt in contact with either elements or gas heated metal pot bottoms. If it does melt at boiling water temps then it should definately not be used in food preparation at 65-75 C

ohh so superman darren can suck 78 degrees wort without flinching but the thought of lifting 2kg of grain is a big no-no
 
Come back Darren I've just poured another schooner.............noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
 
well i started reading this thread out of curiosity about biab, until now i have always made kits and bits because i liked the beer i was making and didnt really want to spend the extra money and time doing all grain, after all is a kits and bits beer that i really like worse or better than an all grain beer that i dont like.see where this argument could go, anyway after starting to read nicks method i got really interested, so i went out and bought a gas burner and large stainless pot ,started setting things up in my shed instead of the kitchen and actually looking forward to doing a dead easy all grain beer and trying it out with no expectations of what it will taste like,so really lets keep this thread where it started , easy/cheap all grain beer method, sure you could start changing things to make it "DIFFERENT" but thats not the intention of the original thread, if i have to start making all these other modifications well i am just not interested in doing all grain, but with Nicks comprehensive tutorial i am going to do my first all grain and regardless of the outcome this will probably swing me over to all grain so lets keep this thread exactly for what it was intended, a really easy/cheap all grain method.if you want to post something in this thread try doing it this way and then give us a rundown on how it went and what your beer turned out like
cheers

fergi
 
Trying to engage civilly and rationally with said argument.

Yeah, you're doing well too, I was more thinking of people who have to make insults for some strange reason, I think insults play no part here, even if you do find Darren annoying for whatever reason.

And to your other question, the original BIAB thing recommended SV that is 100% polyester, which according to wiki is generally just PET, and thus doesn't melt till it hits 260C or thereabouts.. not sure at what temp it would start leeching nasties, but I reckon itd be pretty hard to melt in boiling water ;)
 
well i started reading this thread out of curiosity about biab, until now i have always made kits and bits because i liked the beer i was making and didnt really want to spend the extra money and time doing all grain, after all is a kits and bits beer that i really like worse or better than an all grain beer that i dont like.see where this argument could go, anyway after starting to read nicks method i got really interested, so i went out and bought a gas burner and large stainless pot ,started setting things up in my shed instead of the kitchen and actually looking forward to doing a dead easy all grain beer and trying it out with no expectations of what it will taste like,so really lets keep this thread where it started , easy/cheap all grain beer method, sure you could start changing things to make it "DIFFERENT" but thats not the intention of the original thread, if i have to start making all these other modifications well i am just not interested in doing all grain, but with Nicks comprehensive tutorial i am going to do my first all grain and regardless of the outcome this will probably swing me over to all grain so lets keep this thread exactly for what it was intended, a really easy/cheap all grain method.if you want to post something in this thread try doing it this way and then give us a rundown on how it went and what your beer turned out like
cheers

fergi
+ 1 fergi! Glad to see folks such as yourself have been willing to dip their toes in the pond! I tried this method earlier this year as a stopgap while I was in the process of sorting out a 3-V setup, and to be quite honest, I really haven't seen a desperate need to go to such lengths now. This method works just fine for me, and despite what trolls and detractors might hypothesize could go wrong, the basic BIAB method actually knocks out some pretty decent beers, award- winning in fact. Well, a BIAB variant, at least... ;)
Obviously, techniques can be changed and developed some more, but there's no reason now why you can't have a chop at it, just like Nick showed us, and without the sometimes massive expense of a more traditional setup. So congrats, and let us know if you hit any dramas along the way, we'll be glad to assist!
:beer:
 
Also at what temp does swiss voile melt? (again genuine question as it's also something I don't use).
I looked this up a few months back and if my memory serves correctly, it is about 250 degrees celsius.

Bag is easy to clean, easier than a mash tun. Rinse under tap and throw in washing machine.

Good to see a simple guide and that it is attracting a lot of interest. Well done! I have found a brewer here to re-write the BIABrewer website. Once done, we'll throw in a section of guides for varying levels of expertise and equipment. A couple of little corrections and this one might find itself there with the author's permission of course ;) .

Donya,
Pat
 
candy thermometer is for higher tempatures may be a meat thermomater would work better
 
I bet they smell really good when drying. Great way to contaminate future brews with beer spoilage organisms too ;)

cheers

Darren

I rinse my bag out then put in washing machine with hop sock etc, comes out sweet as. You are a worry, poor old Dazza.
 
bag can not contaminate temperature is to high when you mash and if the boil does not stop contamination you got something very nasty
 
I ran the bag through the wash after it was sewn up. I did that just to take any sizing out of it.

It has never touched anything but tap water and PBW. If I were worried about it I would either boil it or use sanitizer.

I have never had to clean a mash tun so have no idea what people do. I bet there are lots of places an infection can hide. Never have ever heard of a problem with an infection from a mash tun. After all any sane brewer will go immediately to the boil from the mash. Wooden paddles are used for mash paddles. They are never put in the wort as they are known to be dirty.

Bags are the only way to brew at the home brew scale in my opinion. Dont believe me brew an all wheat beer in a mash tun with out extra stuff tossed in or extra long sparge times to deal with the wheat. BIAB is quicker, cheaper, and makes just as good of a beer.

Sorry caught me in a bad beer mood.
 
I looked this up a few months back and if my memory serves correctly, it is about 250 degrees celsius.

Bag is easy to clean, easier than a mash tun. Rinse under tap and throw in washing machine.

Good to see a simple guide and that it is attracting a lot of interest. Well done! I have found a brewer here to re-write the BIABrewer website. Once done, we'll throw in a section of guides for varying levels of expertise and equipment. A couple of little corrections and this one might find itself there with the author's permission of course ;) .

Donya,
Pat

I will be interested to read this new Brew In A Brewer website :p :icon_drunk:
 
I ran the bag through the wash after it was sewn up. I did that just to take any sizing out of it.

It has never touched anything but tap water and PBW. If I were worried about it I would either boil it or use sanitizer.

I have never had to clean a mash tun so have no idea what people do. I bet there are lots of places an infection can hide. Never have ever heard of a problem with an infection from a mash tun. After all any sane brewer will go immediately to the boil from the mash. Wooden paddles are used for mash paddles. They are never put in the wort as they are known to be dirty.

Bags are the only way to brew at the home brew scale in my opinion. Don't believe me brew an all wheat beer in a mash tun with out extra stuff tossed in or extra long sparge times to deal with the wheat. BIAB is quicker, cheaper, and makes just as good of a beer.

Sorry caught me in a bad beer mood.

Darren's (sometimes inexplicable) opposition to BIAB is well known. Most other brewers feel that tun vs bag wars are fairly pointless.
 
It's going to be a while before I get a full-on AG rig set up, so with this guide I rekon I am going to give BIAB a try.

Where's the best place to buy Swiss Voile? Spotlight?
And you use specifically Swiss Voile because of what reason? 100% cotton, or not? The size of the weave?

Regarding hops, I have Ringwood, Cascade, and Amarillo hop pellets - would any of these be a good substitute for what is mentioned in the article (Simcoe & Riwaka)?

Also, instead of using the green (or blue) bucket, would suspending the bag above the pot and squeezing it directly into the pot be just as effective? Or is it more of a "Shit goes everywhere" issue, and doing that over your pot on the stove would cause a mess?

Thanks for the article - and just like other newbs to AG like myself I am going to give it a try because it is so simple to get set up, less volume than a regular brew, & therefore less expectations and less dissapointment if I stuff it up.

:beerbang: Rock on!
 
Well folks - here she is!

IMG_0589.jpg


It's been in the bottle three days, so is far from being clear, or at its best. But I can give you a rundown.

20g of Carafa 3 was too much, next time 10g (have added comments to book o' recipes) - tates of carafa, no other malts. The bitterness is bang on. Foam is perfect. D Saaz not "big" enough - need to double, which might help the carafa overkill.

No problems at 24 degrees with US05. Bonus is I'm drinking it already! These small batches ferment out in record time - not sure of the physics behind it, but I've had a few 48 hour ferments when dumping it on the yeast from the previous brew.

Which I'm about to do tomorrow. Drain the fermenter into 7, 1.25L bottles and then fill it back up with this (once cooled tomorrow):

IMG_0590.jpg


It's 1.8kg ale malt and 700g of rice. Great Pale for this weather.

IMG_0591.jpg


And in one of them I'm gonna add these magic beans.

IMG_0586.jpg


Grapefruit skittles instead of priming sugar in one bottle. See if I get cascade :p aroma.

If you look at the ingredients list ... it reads like beer anyway!

IMG_0585.jpg
 
It's going to be a while before I get a full-on AG rig set up, so with this guide I rekon I am going to give BIAB a try.

Where's the best place to buy Swiss Voile? Spotlight?
And you use specifically Swiss Voile because of what reason? 100% cotton, or not? The size of the weave?

Regarding hops, I have Ringwood, Cascade, and Amarillo hop pellets - would any of these be a good substitute for what is mentioned in the article (Simcoe & Riwaka)?

Also, instead of using the green (or blue) bucket, would suspending the bag above the pot and squeezing it directly into the pot be just as effective? Or is it more of a "Shit goes everywhere" issue, and doing that over your pot on the stove would cause a mess?

Thanks for the article - and just like other newbs to AG like myself I am going to give it a try because it is so simple to get set up, less volume than a regular brew, & therefore less expectations and less dissapointment if I stuff it up.

:beerbang: Rock on!

Spotlight. I got "ivory", not sure if they actually have "white". Why Swiss Voile? Dunno - I'm copying the BIAB pioneers. I think it's technically a nylon.

Hops? There are no rules. Generally, if the AA% is 10+, use it for bittering. Less than 10% flavour/aroma. Break these rules too - they are merely guidelines. Some of the best flavour hops have huge AA%.

You could suspend the bag over the pot no worries - but you'll need a suspension point. I don't have one - so it's a job for the green bucket.

The beer you make this way will be better than your best K&K ... by far. Be anal about sanitization post-boil, and you'll be fine.

EDIT: Try 10g POR for 60min, 7g Amarillo for 20min, but don't be too concerned about getting it "right" (whatever that is). Fix it next time if it's broke. It won't be.
 
Spotlight. I got "ivory", not sure if they actually have "white". Why Swiss Voile? Dunno - I'm copying the BIAB pioneers. I think it's technically a nylon.

Hops? There are no rules. Generally, if the AA% is 10+, use it for bittering. Less than 10% flavour/aroma. Break these rules too - they are merely guidelines. Some of the best flavour hops have huge AA%.

You could suspend the bag over the pot no worries - but you'll need a suspension point. I don't have one - so it's a job for the green bucket.

The beer you make this way will be better than your best K&K ... by far. Be anal about sanitization post-boil, and you'll be fine.

EDIT: Try 10g POR for 60min, 7g Amarillo for 20min, but don't be too concerned about getting it "right" (whatever that is). Fix it next time if it's broke. It won't be.

you can get swiss voille in all kinds of fabrics. They say to use the polyester one in the BIAB book for whatever reason - probably because polyester is PET, and we all know PET is ok for food.
 
Where's the best place to buy Swiss Voile? Spotlight?
And you use specifically Swiss Voile because of what reason? 100% cotton, or not? The size of the weave?

regarding this...i bought the cotton voile from the fabric store because she said swiss was the brand <_<

ANYWAY...what the hell can i use a big cotton voile for? is it too fine for hops?
 
nah cotton would be alright too i reckon. swiss is the brand, but they make poly and cotton voille. At spotlight, the cotton stuff is with all the regular fabrics, and the poly stuff is with all the weird curtain fabrics, normally a different sections. At least thats how it was at my local spotlight.
 
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