Measuring Sparge Water

[beerguide]

I currently batch sparge and I'm thinking about ways to make my brew day more efficient and easier on my back.

At present I have a 13 ltr bucket which has markings down the side at each half ltr.
I use BeerSmith to calculate sparge water which typically works out around two lots of 12-15 ltr amounts for my recipes (depending on expected boil, evaporation etc..).

As you can appreciate moving this around isn't good on the back, and potentially dangerous should I spill 70+ degree water on someone or myself.

How does everyone else measure and batch sparge?

I'm thinking of doing something similar to fly sparging in that creating a big stick which has .5 ltr markings down the side and basically filling my mash tun (esky) with water (with the tap closed), draining and repeating until I have the final desired volume in the kettle using the stick to know when I have enough in the kettle.

This instead of the method I use now, where I measure out exact amounts and sparge that way.

I'd appreciate any feedback as sitting in front of a pc all day is bad enough on my back I don't need my hobby doing me more harm. For the record I brew vertically, in that I have my HLT above my Mash which is above my Kettle. I only put things in a bucket so I can measure them - which is what I'm trying to make more efficient in my process.

 

[razz]

Ultimately Zoddy, you would need containers large enough to keep in place (no lifting) and pump your water/liquor around. What do you have at your disposal?

 

[razz]

Just reread your post, have a look at Warren's Craphaus brewery in the gallery section. He has a bit of plumbing set up to fill from a hose.

 

[dicko]

I currently batch sparge and I'm thinking about ways to make my brew day more efficient and easier on my back.

At present I have a 13 ltr bucket which has markings down the side at each half ltr.
I use BeerSmith to calculate sparge water which typically works out around two lots of 12-15 ltr amounts for my recipes (depending on expected boil, evaporation etc..).

As you can appreciate moving this around isn't good on the back, and potentially dangerous should I spill 70+ degree water on someone or myself.

How does everyone else measure and batch sparge?

I'm thinking of doing something similar to fly sparging in that creating a big stick which has .5 ltr markings down the side and basically filling my mash tun (esky) with water (with the tap closed), draining and repeating until I have the final desired volume in the kettle using the stick to know when I have enough in the kettle.

This instead of the method I use now, where I measure out exact amounts and sparge that way.

I'd appreciate any feedback as sitting in front of a pc all day is bad enough on my back I don't need my hobby doing me more harm. For the record I brew vertically, in that I have my HLT above my Mash which is above my Kettle. I only put things in a bucket so I can measure them - which is what I'm trying to make more efficient in my process.

You dont say what the capacity of your HLT is but what some do is measure the exact amount of mash and sparge water in the HLT and then use as required.
I personally found that I saved all that lifting hot water and such by purchasing a HLT that can hold all of one session of brewing water and then having a sight glass (or dip stick) and mashing and sparging with the measured amount of water.
This way I can fly or batch sparge as I feel the need and I can also adjust the water chemistry for the entire brew in one go.
Cheers

 

[warrenlw63]

G'day Zoddy

Yep, Razz is right. I just leave my HLT in the one spot and fill from the bottom. Just involves something as simple as a sight glass/gauge/tube on your HLT with some incremental markings for volume which I'm pretty sure is a similar system to what most people are using.

I just plug the hose into the water filter and it runs from the filter via a braided easy hooker hose to the bottom of the HLT.

I used to be able to do this with the HLT above the mash with no problems even with the HLT hard against the garage ceiling (hence filling from the bottom).

I now use a March Pump and have my mash and HLT on the same level. I just run with gravity to the boiler.

Plenty of simple solutions to save your back Zoddy with a bit of ingenuity.

Even to the point of having all aluminium vessels for ease of removal and cleaning.

Warren -

 

[troydo]

Hey warren,

i like the setup, however do you find that the steam precipitates on the shelf above and dripps back into the boil?

 

[beerguide]

Sorry, my bad I should have elaborated.
My HLT size is a 40ltr pot. My Mash Tun is a 25ltr esky and Kettle is a 70ltr pot.

I like the idea of just measuring and forgetting but I find my mash tun isn't large enough to hold all the sparge water in one go, which is why BeerSmith (i presume) splits it into two smaller parts for me. In an ideal world I'd have a larger mash tun - but that will happen when I stop spending on ingredients and save the cash to build a new one :unsure:

The limited capacity in my mash tun is obviously the weak point that I'm trying to work with to increase my efficiency etc..

 

[reVoxAHB]

I now use a March Pump and have my mash and HLT on the same level. I just run with gravity to the boiler.

Not to throw the thread too far off topic, but wondering Warren, is there an advantage (or is it just preference) with having 2 vessles HLT/MASH on upper level and Boiler below ala:


VS. HLT top level, 2 remaining vessels lower ala:


Either way, you're using gravity at some point- I would think having vessels as low to the ground as possible would be better, if for no other reason than convenience alone.

Been pondering this as I'm designing my brew stand atm.

Cheers,
reVox

 

[warrenlw63]

Hey warren,

i like the setup, however do you find that the steam precipitates on the shelf above and dripps back into the boil?

Troy I've since abandoned that configuration for 2 tiers and a pump. However no, the steam didn't seem to do any real harm. I had initial concerns but they were unfounded.

Warren -

 

[warrenlw63]

Not to throw the thread too far off topic, but wondering Warren, is there an advantage (or is it just preference) with having 2 vessles HLT/MASH on upper level and Boiler below ala:
View attachment 18190

VS. HLT top level, 2 remaining vessels lower ala:
View attachment 18191

Either way, you're using gravity at some point- I would think having vessels as low to the ground as possible would be better, if for no other reason than convenience alone.

Been pondering this as I'm designing my brew stand atm.

Cheers,
reVox

Revox, no advantage really. Just didn't fancy pumping wort from the mash to the boiler and risk compacting the grainbed (although the risk is minimal). I only use my pump for water transfer from the HLT to the mash.

I reckon any way would work fine. Pros and cons for all.

Now I rack to cubes and not taller carboys and fermenters I'm tempted to lower my whole setup also. I've got to stand on a small stool to mash in though that's no big deal.

Warren -

 

[justsomeguy]

Hey Zoddy,

Here's how I do it for around 20-23 litres into the fermeneter.

1. Fill kettle to around 15 litres and get that to strike temp. This should give me a liquor to grist ratio from around 2.5-3 litres per Kg.
2. Pump strike water to mash tun.
3. Start heating another 20 litres or so to mash out temp in kettle.
4. When mash is complete pump mash out water from kettle to HLT.
5. Drain mash tun taking note of volume collected.
6. Given the grain won't absorb any more water I pump halve the remainder required to reach preboil volume into the mash tun.
7. Drain mash tun checking the total volume gathered now.
8. Start the kettle heating to boil.
8. Pump the remaining water required to reach my preboil into the mash tun from the HLT.
9. Drain and get on with the boil.

The only time things really change is if my preboil gravity out. I'll either add DME or water to get the correct preboil gravity.

I've found that I can shorten the brew day a little by initially only heating enough water for the mash. Once that water is in the mash tun I can get on with heating the remainder of the water for the sparge.

I measure the volumes by using an aluminium dipstick with graduations on it. Once I have the first runnings in the kettle I then adjust the following volumes into the mash tun to make sure each following runnings are of an even volume.

Oh yea, I too, have back problems and for my system the pump has been a great investment.

gary

 

[beerguide]

Thanks everyone, you've given me some more ideas to think about.

 

[Thirsty Boy]

Zoddy - I thought I'd just chip in with the simplest thing I can think of to help with your issue.

Just keep doing exactly what you are currently doing... but with a smaller safer transfer container instead of your 13L bucket.

Until very recently, all my water and wort transfers were made using an 9L plastic watering filled no further than the 7L mark. It doesn't weigh that much and the design makes it easy to pour and hard to spill. Yeah, you'll have to do an extra trip or two between the HLT and mash tun, but you wont wreck your back and you use the inbuilt measuring marks to get your volumes right. <$10 from the big green box shop

Thirsty

 

[beerguide]

Ummm... slightly embarrassed here, but I didn't even think of a smaller container. Jesus why is it I always try to get too technical when a smaller bucket, or smaller amount of liquid into the bucket will achieve a similar task

Given my mash tun sits directly below my hlt this shouldn't be an issue. Thanks Thirsty.