Matho's controller
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NealK
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It seems to work but my display is cooted. I am thinking that if I have to check all the soldering for a dry joint I may as well remove the 16x2 and replace it with a 20x4. I know the screen is probably not the problem but resoldering all the connections may fix the issue. Advice would be appreciated!
Hi Nealk
Did you edit the options before compiling the file and downloading to the arduino?
You get to choose 2x16 or 4x20 and language and the board type etc.
What do you see on the display?
Mind you I swapped mine for a 4x20 and the difference is great. Note there are some bugs in the text that have been mentioned in the thread but not sure they have been fixed in the download file.
James
Zwitter
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Did you edit the options before compiling the file and downloading to the arduino?
You get to choose 2x16 or 4x20 and language and the board type etc.
What do you see on the display?
Mind you I swapped mine for a 4x20 and the difference is great. Note there are some bugs in the text that have been mentioned in the thread but not sure they have been fixed in the download file.
James
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
NealK
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Hi Zwitter
I get squares that kind of fade in and out and move around. I did check the settings before uploading the sketch but I am no expert at this. I know that I have had enough of a surge somewhere to kill the arduino, finding where the damage is is the challenge at the moment I think. I connected it to the brewery and set it to manual and the pump works fine. The heater didn't' but because I can't read the screen' I am assuming the temp was set at a lower temp than the water inside. It's good to hear that swapping the screen has been done before successfully. Where did you buy your screen?
I get squares that kind of fade in and out and move around. I did check the settings before uploading the sketch but I am no expert at this. I know that I have had enough of a surge somewhere to kill the arduino, finding where the damage is is the challenge at the moment I think. I connected it to the brewery and set it to manual and the pump works fine. The heater didn't' but because I can't read the screen' I am assuming the temp was set at a lower temp than the water inside. It's good to hear that swapping the screen has been done before successfully. Where did you buy your screen?
Hi NealK
Possible you blew the display too?
I got my display on ebay and one from RS components and more as well.
They all work except when you blow them up of course.
With boxes it is hard to say what the problem is. Could be the display could be the software. I would suggest checking the software while you wait for the display to arrive? Could be a connection too?
Hard to tell.
Where are you ?
James
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Possible you blew the display too?
I got my display on ebay and one from RS components and more as well.
They all work except when you blow them up of course.
With boxes it is hard to say what the problem is. Could be the display could be the software. I would suggest checking the software while you wait for the display to arrive? Could be a connection too?
Hard to tell.
Where are you ?
James
Zwitter
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dblunn
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Just out of curiosity, how is the contrast setting on the screen? Could it be set too high?
Dave
Dave
OneEye
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Ok Lads, a question.
I have a raspberrypi that is itching to be incorporated into the brewery somehow. Can matho's controller be easily adapted to incorporate the Pi so as to take advantage of something like craftbeerpi? Is it as easy as swapping out the arduino for the pi? Why can I not just leave well enough alone!
I have a raspberrypi that is itching to be incorporated into the brewery somehow. Can matho's controller be easily adapted to incorporate the Pi so as to take advantage of something like craftbeerpi? Is it as easy as swapping out the arduino for the pi? Why can I not just leave well enough alone!
In a word NO!OneEye said:
You could use a Pi in a brewpi setup to control the fermentation temp of a fridge.
I have several PIs and they are all on the home network and ported to the WEB. one is Brewpi connected to Arduino via Bluetooth, one is a power monitoring setup connected to several Arduinos via 900Mhz FM. they can be used as home video players and other brewing purposes but the Arduino is more than enough for the Matho's Brewmiser.
Find another use for the Pi there are lots.
zwitter
james
OneEye - The answer to your question is basically 'yes'. Main difference in h/w looks like craftbeerpi does not use a dedicated local LCD display, but instead appears to use a PC/network connection. This, in turn, opens up a lot more feature opportunities. I like the 1,2, or 3 kettle setup, profile monitoring, and recipe import.
I refer you to the thread:
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/90757-craftbeerpi-brew-controller/
and the creator's h/w diagram:
https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi/blob/master/README.md
Dave A.
I refer you to the thread:
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/90757-craftbeerpi-brew-controller/
and the creator's h/w diagram:
https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi/blob/master/README.md
Dave A.
malt junkie
Well-Known Member
So far you have one yes and one no .OneEye said:
I see this as building an entire new controller.dca said:
Yes someone has ported code for Ardbir for use with wifi and logging however it was a complete rewrite, and was written for the Adbir pin out not matho's, if your good with code I'd be happy to point you to the project.
Hi dca
That is not incorporating into a Matho's controller.
That is just a controller based on a Pi.
If you want that then there are many alternatives to Arduino.
Why when Arduino is so cheap would you want to use anything else?
I rather like the BCS controllers but the Matho was designed at a price point low on the spectrum. It works. There are alternate SW that can be loaded into it to add wifi, bluetooth, extra elements, temp probes, logging menu storage and import etc electric valves etc
But the Matho's is what it is and does a great job at what it was designed to do.
James
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
That is not incorporating into a Matho's controller.
That is just a controller based on a Pi.
If you want that then there are many alternatives to Arduino.
Why when Arduino is so cheap would you want to use anything else?
I rather like the BCS controllers but the Matho was designed at a price point low on the spectrum. It works. There are alternate SW that can be loaded into it to add wifi, bluetooth, extra elements, temp probes, logging menu storage and import etc electric valves etc
But the Matho's is what it is and does a great job at what it was designed to do.
James
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Hi dca
That is not incorporating into a Matho's controller.
That is just a controller based on a Pi.
If you want that then there are many alternatives to Arduino.
Why when Arduino is so cheap would you want to use anything else?
I rather like the BCS controllers but the Matho was designed at a price point low on the spectrum. It works. There are alternate SW that can be loaded into it to add wifi, bluetooth, extra elements, temp probes, logging menu storage and import etc electric valves etc
But the Matho's is what it is and does a great job at what it was designed to do.
James
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
That is not incorporating into a Matho's controller.
That is just a controller based on a Pi.
If you want that then there are many alternatives to Arduino.
Why when Arduino is so cheap would you want to use anything else?
I rather like the BCS controllers but the Matho was designed at a price point low on the spectrum. It works. There are alternate SW that can be loaded into it to add wifi, bluetooth, extra elements, temp probes, logging menu storage and import etc electric valves etc
But the Matho's is what it is and does a great job at what it was designed to do.
James
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
malt junkie
Well-Known Member
Zwitter,
I know ya got mad skillz but come on how do you do a 4 hr delayed double post?????
I know ya got mad skillz but come on how do you do a 4 hr delayed double post?????
Take a look at PeteQ's post on the craftbeerpi thread. All you need is an adapter from arduino to RPI. Of course the LCD won't work or the buttons, and you may need to modify the pin out on the pi code.
Pete mentioned the pump took some time to switch, but apart from that appears to work well with the functionality it has. At the moment that is more limited than ardBir, but setting steps etc via phone is easier apparently, which makes sense, though the 1-2 mins time cost to set up the controller has not yet led me to even save recipes.
Pete's comment to me was something like: for $30 for the pi zero and the adapter, it was a cool change, just waiting on more development to increase functionality
Pete mentioned the pump took some time to switch, but apart from that appears to work well with the functionality it has. At the moment that is more limited than ardBir, but setting steps etc via phone is easier apparently, which makes sense, though the 1-2 mins time cost to set up the controller has not yet led me to even save recipes.
Pete's comment to me was something like: for $30 for the pi zero and the adapter, it was a cool change, just waiting on more development to increase functionality
nosco
Well-Known Member
Ive just scored a Matho's controller from AHB member. Pretty stocked but it will take a bit of time to get going. Its been set up to use a LBP but I want to use a KK MKII pump which I also scored for a bargain price.
The plug for the LBP is an RCA audio plug. What plug or what else would I have to do to be able to use the MKII (240v) pump with the controller?
Edit: Will an RCA plug still work with the MKII pump?
CHeers.
The plug for the LBP is an RCA audio plug. What plug or what else would I have to do to be able to use the MKII (240v) pump with the controller?
Edit: Will an RCA plug still work with the MKII pump?
CHeers.
nosco
Well-Known Member
So what exactly have i got here? The screen seems smaller to the other brauduino's im looking at on the net.
blotto
Well-Known Member
Looks like one of his original versions with the smaller screen. I have one myself. Should work fine and the latest firmware.
nosco
Well-Known Member
Do you know if I would be able to swap the pump plug to a 240v plug? or should I swap the plug on the pump to an RCA one?
5teve
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No it's not that simple. The controller will be switching 12Vdc for the LBP, you will need it switching 240Vac for the MkII pump.
You'll have to open up the controller and have a look inside at what is doing the switching. I'm guessing there's probably a 12Vdc relay now which you'll (via your licensed electrical contractor of course) need to swap out for a 240Vac relay to switch active for the new pump.
Here is some sweet MS Paint art to roughly explain in pictures what I'm envisaging.
Edit - Of course you could also use the existing DC relay as an interposing relay to switch the coil on an AC relay.
You'll have to open up the controller and have a look inside at what is doing the switching. I'm guessing there's probably a 12Vdc relay now which you'll (via your licensed electrical contractor of course) need to swap out for a 240Vac relay to switch active for the new pump.
Here is some sweet MS Paint art to roughly explain in pictures what I'm envisaging.
Edit - Of course you could also use the existing DC relay as an interposing relay to switch the coil on an AC relay.
Hi Nosco
It looks like maybe one of Lael's first series. I bought one just like it.
There will be a relay on the board doing the switching. It will switch 12 or 240 volts. The wiring will need to be changed as Rca socket is not suitable for 240v. Can use IEC socket for the pump. The active wire is switched by the relay he neutral and earth just go straight from the power input to the pump output.
It is possible to upgrade to the bigger 4x20 display but takes some skill and soldering tools and then some computer and software skills.
These ones did not have the second power SSR circuit for extra heating circuit or the mod on the temp transducer to stop blowing them up if unplugged and replugged. And the snubber circuit was a little different and it may suffer the scramble on the display. But they can be upgraded to a point. Oh and probably had 10amp IEC sockets on the back not those lovely 20amp jobs on the latest ones
At one time I actually posted instructions on how to change the relay out for a small SSR for the pump switching.
This should support the 2.8 version but maybe not the other variants unless you swapped the arduino from a R3 to a Mega due to the memory space. The programming is described in the instruction manual and you need to choose the pcb, lcd, language etc before compiling and loading.
I did eventually change my rig to the later version controller and just now am installing a second element in the pot for faster heating and stop using the over the side element.
All the data is on AHB
James
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
It looks like maybe one of Lael's first series. I bought one just like it.
There will be a relay on the board doing the switching. It will switch 12 or 240 volts. The wiring will need to be changed as Rca socket is not suitable for 240v. Can use IEC socket for the pump. The active wire is switched by the relay he neutral and earth just go straight from the power input to the pump output.
It is possible to upgrade to the bigger 4x20 display but takes some skill and soldering tools and then some computer and software skills.
These ones did not have the second power SSR circuit for extra heating circuit or the mod on the temp transducer to stop blowing them up if unplugged and replugged. And the snubber circuit was a little different and it may suffer the scramble on the display. But they can be upgraded to a point. Oh and probably had 10amp IEC sockets on the back not those lovely 20amp jobs on the latest ones
At one time I actually posted instructions on how to change the relay out for a small SSR for the pump switching.
This should support the 2.8 version but maybe not the other variants unless you swapped the arduino from a R3 to a Mega due to the memory space. The programming is described in the instruction manual and you need to choose the pcb, lcd, language etc before compiling and loading.
I did eventually change my rig to the later version controller and just now am installing a second element in the pot for faster heating and stop using the over the side element.
All the data is on AHB
James
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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