Matho's controller

[Hpal]

I have a 4500w element and use a 40A SSR, that may be your issue.

 

[zwitter]

Hi Nealk

Yep that does not look the best.

A quick google brings up hits about fake 25A fotek SSRs

It is possible that the SSR you have is not an original?

I actually am still running my original SSRs that I have had for almost 30 years and they are still good but I have a 2000w element.

Regardless of brand SSRs do get hot and there are a few factors that can help.
First is the heatsink. But even mounting direction changes the amount of heat that can be dissipated. Ideal position allows the fins to run vertically and allow convection to create a flow across the heatsink. Heatsink paste is a must. A fan makes an enormous difference. But even the size of the wires connecting to the SSR will change the amount of heat that is dissipated.

I will post the way to tell if is a counterfeit device and note that they have been sold through Amazon and other large retailers not just ebay.

I think the kits have the 40A version and not heard stories about them as yet.

i would consider a bigger heatsink, mounted vertically or a fan when you replace the SSR.
James



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[zwitter]

Hi Nealk

SSR counterfeit 25A Fotek

https://ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

there are many other sites and some look to be lower amperage versions relabeled to higher current.

I use other brand ones in my original kit and the latest kit is being set up this week with an Easter brew planned. Fitting a fan will prolong the life of a counterfeit but probably worth checking if you have a 25A version for the beveled corner on the label.

I will check my ones tonight.

James
Zwitter

 

[NealK]

Holy shit man!, I never even thought that it could be counterfeit. Thank you very much for sharing the info. My melted one looks like it is definitely a fake. I have a new one on its way from ebay and the picture shows a genuine one and if that is not what I get I will be very pissed off. This one is coming from Darwin so at least communication will be easier if something goes wrong.
I think I will start a new thread with this information to warn people that they should check their SSR's.
Thanks again James, I really would not even have thought to check this.
Cheers
Neal

 

[MastersBrewery]

I use 2 40 amp SSRs both melted using 2400w each. Here's the tip: good heat sink, good thermal contact(quality thermal paste, clean flat contact surfaces, lapping maybe over the top but my next tear down.. ) add a fan. You will then have zero issues.

 

[eucyblues]

I have a Braudino kit - (Many thanks again for your massive effort Lael) and I've also recently become 'embedded' in Arduino stuff and was wondering where I can get a copy of the sketch for the Braudino - is it straight Ardbir or modified (for reasons best left unasked, I've yet to fire up my Braudino so I don''t know if it straight Ardbir or not )

Cheers

 

[zwitter]

Hi eucyblues

The code is "straight" Ardbir which was all originally based on Matho's system

When you go to load it there are some selections in the code you need to make as the basic code supports several versions of boards and display sizes and languages.

The instructions are in the users guide.

There is a youtube showing how it is all done. At this time the code the arduino ships with from Lael is as good as any later version for our purposes.

There is some mucking about with arduinos so unless you are pretty cluey with technical stuff it may be something you can put off for a rainy day? None of it is difficult but for those used to googling answers and downloading etc it is just trial and error.

James

Zwitter

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[nfragol]

Hi guys,

Can someone tell me where I can get the grainfather version of Ardbir? I really need the pump on in manual mode when boiling.

Anyone with the grainfather, what sampletime and windowsize are you using ?

Thanks.

 

[eucyblues]

Thanks zwitter - much appreciated

When I say embedded in Arduino I really mean it (ask my wife- OMG!!) - for the last few months I've been eating, drinking and sleeping it even on sunny days (at least it feels like it ) So I should be OK

Thanks again

Eb

 

[andreas_swe]

Hey guys, this might be a bit off topic. But i'm looking for the sketchup files for oggies case, has anyone received it? I'm looking at doing my own take on a controller (to do more stuff than just making beer with the grainfather) and as i liked his design i wanted to build on it and modify it, and the STL files, while good for printing a copy, is not really that great for modification.

I've tried contacting Oggie, but have not received any replies, hence my question in this thread.

Andreas

 

[GibboQLD]

Hey guys, this might be a bit off topic. But i'm looking for the sketchup files for oggies case, has anyone received it? I'm looking at doing my own take on a controller (to do more stuff than just making beer with the grainfather) and as i liked his design i wanted to build on it and modify it, and the STL files, while good for printing a copy, is not really that great for modification.

Haven't tried it myself, but there's apparently a plugin for SketchUp to import/export STL files...

 

[andreas_swe]

Hey GibboQLD,

I have imported the STL files into sketchup, but the problem with that is that the when the original model is exported to STL the whole geometry and "wireframe" is divided into many smaller faces and many times triangulated. The process is also an approximation meaning that the model has not clean polygons, and many more control points making editing (and selecting right stuff to edit), very time consuming and error prone.

 

[terragady]

Hi, are there any shared boards on OSH Park which I can order?

 

[mariosab]

Hello,
Thank you very much for all the work you have shared. Now I have my ArdBir working perfectly. I am very grateful.

I would ask if anyone has tried to plot the temperature signal through the USB port using free software Stamp Plot. I've used this program with other Arduino projects and it works perfectly and in a very high quatilty screen, but when I look at the ArdBir sketcht not dare touch it because it seems like a house of cards after a lot of optimizations.

Anyone is encouraged to try? At least to point the place in the sketch to insert the sub routine...
One of the several reference links could be: http://ianlangelectronic.webeden.co.uk/#/stamp-plot/4566546858

Thanks and regards.
Please apologize my poor english

 

[terragady]

I do not think there is much space left for anything else, thats why they never implemented bluetooth etc. There is although a as I remember Taiwanease guy who did very similar software with this and bluetooth. You might check.

BTW here is my designed PCB for Arduino nano which is cheaper and works with one for 2$ from china. You can easily order one from elecrow or dirtypcb for cheap or I can send some as I ordered 10pcs and need only 1

https://github.com/terragady/ArdBir

 

[zwitter]

Hi Mariosab
Terragady is sort of correct but the final controller we supplied an Arduino Mega and it has plenty of spare room in it for additions. The original used an R3 and it does just fit the latest ArdBir but no extra space.

Why do you want to log the temp?
I guess you could and I guess could use bluetooth too.
I actually enjoy sitting and watching.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[terragady]

You can connect arduino to the computer and just extract temperature reading and plot it somehow, this is durable without any additional stuff.

There is also nice project out using Raspberry Pi (any version) CraftBeerPi which I would recommend to check for everyone. PCB can be easily adopted to Raspberry, just connect GPIOs and you do not need LCD because the control is through home website (wireless or wired).

 

[mariosab]

Hello Zwitter and Terragady.

I have an Arduino UNO R3 with the Brauduino Daniel Xan shield working very well. And I want to keep this version of Arduino because one of the goals is to reach this good behavior with such low resourses.

Now I want to plot as mashing temperature varies depending on the time while being controlled by our project. This would be very useful to see the AirBir control performance and for to adjust the PID controller.


I have used in other projects the free software "Stamp Plot" alowing to graph values on the screen of any computer from Arduino through the USB connector without additional hardware.

The problem is our Arduino UNO already has a highly optimized sketch and it is necessary to know very well where to insert the required small subroutine.

This task could be more easy for the people who optimized our sketch.

If it is necessary a a little bit of free additional memory, could be erased languages and display formats that are not used.

 

[zwitter]

Hi Mariosab

Fortunately or unfortunately maybe is the ArdBir is the latest in the software for the Mathos controller and is written by a team in Italy. There are other versions and I guess as the sketch is freely available can be edited and optimised.
We chose to use a bigger capacity Arduino to allow future options and at AUD17 is hardly a big expense. Cheaper if you order direct from China or buy bulk. Certainly a lot less than the time required for someone to optimise the software to add a feature.

Generally with open source it is those who can do and those that can't take what is offered.

Me I am a hardware person and generally not so good at the software side. I can write SW but often do not have the time to learn. I am about to try and learn more in the sketch language for Arduino as I want to play with load cells to combine into some brewing projects. I have 3 kids and a very busy household so time is limited and already have too many things vying for my time but I hope to encourage the kids to learn as well. Last weekend I had my 10 year old daughter using my 350A welder and she could do better welds than me! We built a trellis for growing passionfruit and hops.

I would encourage you to give it a go and edit the sketch then test each time you are successful save it and then repeat. If it does not work go back to the previous working one and try again.
Then share the results. As long as you give credit to the people who came up with the ideas and whose work you are building on then it is all good.

James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[MaxN68]

I tried to insert a routine for the check printing via PC and the problem is not only the space for the code.
The routine generates a lag that makes necessary the use a rtc to properly manage the mash.