Malt Pipes

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Errmm sorry I missed all these replies. It cost me a slab of Teds but in reality I reckon you should be able to get one for about $100. I would be trying to get it done as a cash job though so calling into somewhere and speaking face to face.
The flat pattern was cut out on a guillotine, rolled and welded. The rib and top lip were then rolled using a swage roller, after that the studs were welded using a stud welder. All up about an hours worth of work.
A bribe of a return with some beer might also help your case.


bevan said:
Where do work and what would the cost be for one of those? It looks awesome!

Lionman said:
That is awesome. How much do you think that would cost to get made up? It don't have access to a workshop capable of that.

aydos said:
That's really well done, did you roll the rib before you rolled the pot or afterwards? Also did you do the same with the top lip?

I'm doing the same at the moment building my own braumeister clone.

Cheers
 
Ferg said:
a slab of Teds
At least it's good something!

I ended up getting a crab cooker as it was on sale on ebay so will go with that for a bit. Might further investigate a custom malt pipe at some stage.
 
DigitalGiraffe said:
Ive seen these on Ali and it does look good but im thinking that it's basically a stainless brew bag for biab which is still very cool. Im still a way off upgrading to a malt pipe but the benefit of a malt pipe that only drains through the bottom is that you get the filtration through the grain bed similar to a 3v mash. With biab the bulk of the liquid can drain straight out the sides and bypass the grains. Am i correct in my thinking?
 
nosco said:
Ive seen these on Ali and it does look good but im thinking that it's basically a stainless brew bag for biab which is still very cool. Im still a way off upgrading to a malt pipe but the benefit of a malt pipe that only drains through the bottom is that you get the filtration through the grain bed similar to a 3v mash. With biab the bulk of the liquid can drain straight out the sides and bypass the grains. Am i correct in my thinking?
Yes, malt pipes drain through the bottom only to allow the liquid to pass through the entire grain bed to increase efficiency and produce a better filter, especially when coupled with recirculation.

I modified a cheap 56L pot for my malt pipe by grinding slots in the bottom in separate 4 quadrants.
 
Lyrebird_Cycles said:
No, I cut out four quadrants so what is left is an outer collar of about 4 cm width with a cross (also about 4 cm width) in the centre. I then make a false bottom that fits snugly inside, with the help of some silicone tape.

I just realised that thats probably pretty opaque, I'll try to take some pics tomorrow.

fdsaasdf said:
I modified a cheap 56L pot for my malt pipe by grinding slots in the bottom in separate 4 quadrants.
Could I please trouble you both with a few pics? I'm planning mine, have all the bits, just need to plan out prior to build.
 
And is it better to cut slots or drill holes?
(I may be looking at converting a cheap SS pot for my birko in the near/distant future...)

I appreciate drilling steel can be a little slippery but I can probably get around that if it's better for the process overall.

Edit: & @ LC, why do the quadrant cutout with separate drop-in false bottom? Isn't that just producing more fiddly stuff to clean, or did you accidentally slip cutting your slots and then decide "actually I think I'll just cut out quadrants and drop in the base screen"? [emoji6]
 
technobabble66 said:
And is it better to cut slots or drill holes?
(I may be looking at converting a cheap SS pot for my birko in the near/distant future...)
I appreciate drilling steel can be a little slippery but I can probably get around that if it's better for the process overall.
Edit: & @ LC, why do the quadrant cutout with separate drop-in false bottom? Isn't that just producing more fiddly stuff to clean, or did you accidentally slip cutting your slots and then decide "actually I think I'll just cut out quadrants and drop in the base screen"? [emoji6]
Hi TB, I've also got the cheap ss pot. I think cutting out the quadrant or wedges would add strength & support for the mesh screen. With recirculating & due to the pot being thin, i think will need it.
 
I cut slits in my 56L cheapo pot with a 4 inch grinder. It's fairly rigid. I've done a few big beers in it without a problem.
The only time I've had a problem with flow was when brewing a RIS but that was more to do with the amount of roasted grains in there.
I can direct the flow beside the malt pipe if needed and normally do at mash in.
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1488444133.749322.jpg
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1488444179.958359.jpg
 
technobabble66 said:
LC, why do the quadrant cutout with separate drop-in false bottom? Isn't that just producing more fiddly stuff to clean, or did you accidentally slip cutting your slots and then decide "actually I think I'll just cut out quadrants and drop in the base screen"? [emoji6]
Basically resistance to deformation: The quadrant keeps the bottom of the pipe round so the false bottom seats properly.

The separate false bottom is there because I can't cut slots of the size I want (0.6mm).

Sorry for the lack of pics, I'm flat chat preparing for vintage. We'll start picking next week so I have no spare time for the next two months.
 
So does any grain get through the malt pipes or doesn't it matter? If it gets through does it get recirculated by the pump or does it stay in the boil?

Using a grinder to cut some slots would be really quick and easy but I think im liking Lyrebird_Cycles idea. Silicone tape is a great invention. It could also be used to make a defuser mesh to go over the top of the mash like in a GF or other type 1v machine.
 
I bought a robobrew malt pipe from keg king after emailing them. ended up cheaper after cost of cooking pot and tools etc and will do the job... for now,
 
nosco said:
So does any grain get through the malt pipes or doesn't it matter? If it gets through does it get recirculated by the pump or does it stay in the boil?
The object of forerunning (vorlauf in German) is to establish a filter bed which traps remnant grain particles. The clearer the runnings the cleaner the beer.

For this to work optimally the slots should be thin enough to trap the larger particles: I've found 0.6mm works OK.

Using a grinder to cut some slots would be really quick and easy
IMO you can't cut a thin enough slot with an angle grinder. On one of the small scale prototypes for my lautering system I used a Dremel with "thin cut" wheels, I got mediocre results and cutting the slots in a 100mm diameter base used an entire packet of the cutting wheels. A 380mm base would thus use 15 packets.
 
Thanks LC. Im familiar with the term vorlauf but as Im a biaber Im not familiar with the process. I can see how it works with a 3v system but how would it work with a 1v malt pipe system? Even if you dropped the pipe into the strike water, after stirring for dough balls there would have to be some grains and husk that gets through? Especially since with a malt pipe there is the free space below the malt pipe. Does forerunning just involve a few run offs with a jug to establish the grain bed before using a recirc pump?

Sorry if im getting ot.
 
I've never run a 1V system so I'm not the person to ask, but I can't see why you couldn't recirculate via pump until your wort clarified then begin lifting the pipe. There may be something I'm missing.
 
Your not missing anything LC I think I am just over thinking it. So what are you making you false bottom from .ie how are you getting .6mm gaps? I can only find 2mm perforated stainless.


Edit: Have you posted pics of your malt pipe in another thread?
 
No sorry, everything is packed away until after vintage: I'm planning to then make a 380mm diameter all stainless version and hopefully I'll remember to take build pics.
 
ein stein said:
I bought a robobrew malt pipe from keg king after emailing them. ended up cheaper after cost of cooking pot and tools etc and will do the job... for now,
Nice one

If you dont mind me asking how much & what dimensions was it

Did it come with perforated ss false bottom & top

Cheers Rude
 
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