making a BIAB set up out of a keg

[flymanor]

Hey Guys,

I'm wanting to make a BIAB system out of a 50L keg. My plan is to cut the top, drill for ball valve and thermometer, and install a 2200watt s/s eletcric element in the bottom.
The local HB store expressed concerns about caramelisation of sugars on the element, but i would like to keep it electric as i can lag the keg and dont have to worry about gas supply.
What are your thoughts on this? It seems to work in theory but i am new to this art and dont want to invest in a inadequate set up.
My plan isnto use this as a HLT when i eventually go to 3V.

Thanks

 

[CoopsOz]

No problems, many have gone down that route (including myself). I now use mine as a HLT also.

 

[sp0rk]

Is that element able to get 30ish litres of water up to a rolling boil?

 

[flymanor]

Is that element able to get 30ish litres of water up to a rolling boil?

i hope so, i can put 2 in but would need 2 circuits, or a dedicated 15amp.

What have other people put in? gas seems the simplest option but will avoid it if i can

 

[CoopsOz]

Yep, but it takes a while.

 

[MAX POWER]

i hope so, i can put 2 in but would need 2 circuits, or a dedicated 15amp.

What have other people put in? gas seems the simplest option but will avoid it if i can

I have done double batches with a 2200w element. Takes a while. I'll be buying an over the side element to help ramp it up to boiling.

 

[breakbeer]

I have 2 elements in mine, just run an extension lead to a separate circuit when it's time to boil.

Running a recirculating pump will also help with any scorching issues

A lil brown pump (under $30) will do the trick nicely

 

[Tahoose]

I'm planning on running one kettle element and one portable Induction stove simultaneously and I figure I'll just run the element from a different part of the house via a long extension cable.

Plan on running a keg soon with two kettle elements and can't see why this solution would be a problem. You'd still have the power issues with an over the side element and that's a more expensive (not a bad) option.

Corded kettle from woolworths is $12, there isn't really any how to on the web that I could find but I just dismantled the kettle (carefully), made a hole in the pot the same size as the one in the kettle, retained the washer/bung that came with the original unit, and cut a silicone muffin tray (kmart $5) DIY washer on the inside to make it water tight. Is leak proof and one element holds a boil nicely on my 19ltr pot.

 

[Tahoose]

Looks like breakbeer beat me to it.

 

[spog]

I'm planning on running one kettle element and one portable Induction stove simultaneously and I figure I'll just run the element from a different part of the house via a long extension cable.

Plan on running a keg soon with two kettle elements and can't see why this solution would be a problem. You'd still have the power issues with an over the side element and that's a more expensive (not a bad) option.

Corded kettle from woolworths is $12, there isn't really any how to on the web that I could find but I just dismantled the kettle (carefully), made a hole in the pot the same size as the one in the kettle, retained the washer/bung that came with the original unit, and cut a silicone muffin tray (kmart $5) DIY washer on the inside to make it water tight. Is leak proof and one element holds a boil nicely on my 19ltr pot.

The Home Brewing Forum.co
How to remove a Tesco kettle element.
Cheers....spog....

 

[Tahoose]

Yeah I saw that one, but I thought that was a cordless kettle, in talking about old school type corded kettle.

All done anyway, boils well and leak proof.

 

[kahlerisms]

I had one of these (Electric keggle for brew in a bag). It worked but there were downsides:

1) Often had burnt taste in my beer. This seemed to progress more and more as the elements aged and is the thing that forced me to abandon my electric rig.
2) Required element shield (Cake rack) which was a bit of a pain in the arse whirlpool wise and burnt hands wise (getting it in and out each brew)
3) Lost a lot of volume/ability to do double batches due to the amount of volume taken up by the element and element shield
4) Was bloody slow. Brew day would take 6.5hours or so for nothing too fancy. I'd lag a couple of hours behind my gas bretheren when they visited for a bigger brew day.
5) Taking my brewery to mates places required sufficient power. Too many electric brewers in one spot is a problem, too many gas brewers isn't.

In the end I retired my electric keggle and went gas with a 100L pot. For $300 I bought a rig that could do triple batches and a shitload faster. Downsides are
1) Cost (i consider gas more expensive per brew)
2) Safety (I consider gas less safe than electricity - especially in the case of a leak)
3) Lack of automation - I had grand plans to automate a lot of my rig. These are made more difficult and expensive by going gas. Not a huge loss at this stage.
4) There was a bit of romance in making beer in something that was once designed and used to serve beer.


For the amount of effort you're going to go through building your rig, I'd encourage you to think hard about what you want to achieve. One day when I own my own place and can get some tankier power put in, I'll go back to electric (though likely 3V), automate it with some flashy lights and my keggle will be my HLT. Until then I couldn't be happier with going gas.


Check out QLDKev's videos - I reckon he might be the great lord of electric 1V brewing in Australia. He doesn't use a keggle.

 

[flymanor]

I had one of these (Electric keggle for brew in a bag). It worked but there were downsides:

1) Often had burnt taste in my beer. This seemed to progress more and more as the elements aged and is the thing that forced me to abandon my electric rig.
2) Required element shield (Cake rack) which was a bit of a pain in the arse whirlpool wise and burnt hands wise (getting it in and out each brew)
3) Lost a lot of volume/ability to do double batches due to the amount of volume taken up by the element and element shield
4) Was bloody slow. Brew day would take 6.5hours or so for nothing too fancy. I'd lag a couple of hours behind my gas bretheren when they visited for a bigger brew day.
5) Taking my brewery to mates places required sufficient power. Too many electric brewers in one spot is a problem, too many gas brewers isn't.

In the end I retired my electric keggle and went gas with a 100L pot. For $300 I bought a rig that could do triple batches and a shitload faster. Downsides are
1) Cost (i consider gas more expensive per brew)
2) Safety (I consider gas less safe than electricity - especially in the case of a leak)
3) Lack of automation - I had grand plans to automate a lot of my rig. These are made more difficult and expensive by going gas. Not a huge loss at this stage.
4) There was a bit of romance in making beer in something that was once designed and used to serve beer.


For the amount of effort you're going to go through building your rig, I'd encourage you to think hard about what you want to achieve. One day when I own my own place and can get some tankier power put in, I'll go back to electric (though likely 3V), automate it with some flashy lights and my keggle will be my HLT. Until then I couldn't be happier with going gas.
t

Check out QLDKev's videos - I reckon he might be the great lord of electric 1V brewing in Australia. He doesn't use a keggle.

thanks heaps guys,
looks like gas may be the way to go. how much gas do you need to get to mash temp, and an hour or so of rolling boil?
would be using the 8.5kg bbq bottle, would hate to run out half way.

 

[sp0rk]

an 8.5kg bottle gets me 5 or so brews (some of those being 90 minute boils)

 

[shmang]

I wouldn't put the thermometer through the side of the kettle, it will make for a life of grain bag that are very difficult to remove at best and at worst torn grain bags.

 

[spog]

I had one of these (Electric keggle for brew in a bag). It worked but there were downsides:

1) Often had burnt taste in my beer. This seemed to progress more and more as the elements aged and is the thing that forced me to abandon my electric rig.
2) Required element shield (Cake rack) which was a bit of a pain in the arse whirlpool wise and burnt hands wise (getting it in and out each brew)
3) Lost a lot of volume/ability to do double batches due to the amount of volume taken up by the element and element shield
4) Was bloody slow. Brew day would take 6.5hours or so for nothing too fancy. I'd lag a couple of hours behind my gas bretheren when they visited for a bigger brew day.
5) Taking my brewery to mates places required sufficient power. Too many electric brewers in one spot is a problem, too many gas brewers isn't.

In the end I retired my electric keggle and went gas with a 100L pot. For $300 I bought a rig that could do triple batches and a shitload faster. Downsides are
1) Cost (i consider gas more expensive per brew)
2) Safety (I consider gas less safe than electricity - especially in the case of a leak)
3) Lack of automation - I had grand plans to automate a lot of my rig. These are made more difficult and expensive by going gas. Not a huge loss at this stage.
4) There was a bit of romance in making beer in something that was once designed and used to serve beer.


For the amount of effort you're going to go through building your rig, I'd encourage you to think hard about what you want to achieve. One day when I own my own place and can get some tankier power put in, I'll go back to electric (though likely 3V), automate it with some flashy lights and my keggle will be my HLT. Until then I couldn't be happier with going gas.


Check out QLDKev's videos - I reckon he might be the great lord of electric 1V brewing in Australia. He doesn't use a keggle.

I Have 2 kettle elements in my keggle works a treat.
As for the burnt tastes/flavours that is down to not cleaning the elements,after the transfer to the fermentor I flush the keggle use a toothbrush to scrub both elements then fill to about 2 inches above the elements bring to the boil add 3 teaspoons of citric acid,leave to soak overnight.
Next day scrub again,drain ,rinse and job done,this I learnt from experience from getting off flavours.

 

[flymanor]

does the fittings you use affect the flavour? i have access to a lot of copper fittings which would negate the cost of stainless, would it make much of a difference to the quality of the brew? Can the copper or brass handle the boiling temperatures?

 

[spog]

does the fittings you use affect the flavour? i have access to a lot of copper fittings which would negate the cost of stainless, would it make much of a difference to the quality of the brew? Can the copper or brass handle the boiling temperatures?

As long as they are clean,no probs, immersion chillers can be made of copper as mine and many others have done .

 

[TheWiggman]

I have 2 elements in mine, just run an extension lead to a separate circuit when it's time to boil.

Running a recirculating pump will also help with any scorching issues

A lil brown pump (under $30) will do the trick nicely

Completely agree with the recirc pump and 2 element approach.
Be wary of the brown pumps. Decent for water but history has shown (do a forum search) that these pumps aren't reliable for wort. Mine lasted me 4 brews before seizing. Get a green mag drive pump for barely twice as much and save yourself the upgrade.

Also consider that unless you're running temp control, scorching shouldn't be an issue. For most brews, you heat strike water then add grist. No need to turn on the element until the boil unless you have temp control or want to mash out. As per above, check out QldKev's setup and YouTube vids if there's any doubt as I haven't heard anyone mention that his beers are no good.

 

[TidalPete]

Be wary of the brown pumps. Decent for water but history has shown (do a forum search) that these pumps aren't reliable for wort. Mine lasted me 4 brews before seizing. Get a green mag drive pump for barely twice as much and save yourself the upgrade.

+1

For most brews, you heat strike water then add grist. No need to turn on the element until the boil unless you have temp control or want to mash out. As per above, check out QldKev's setup and YouTube vids if there's any doubt

Even though I use gas at the kettle --- 4 x v HERMS (Electric HLT,MT, HEX) I must say that's good advice to any new brewers whether going BIAB or gravity with no pump.

I have supervised enough of Bribie's BIAB brewdays in the past so know good BIAB advice when I see it. :lol:
Another +1 for QldKev's website to aspiring brewers.