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Little Creatures Pale Extract Recipe

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jhay

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I picked up the following recipe off the Internet and I would like to try it as my second extract recipe.The first Coopers Irish re Ale is still not showing any yeast activity,so I'm not sure it will turn out.

Ingredients for Little Creatures are;

Little Creatures Pale Ale Extract Method. Alcohol: 5.2%
Bitterness: 42IBU
Colour: 20oEBC
Original gravity 1.052 –
1.054
Final gravity 1.012 – 1.014


3kg Liquid light malt extract
500g Dextrose
250g Caramalt/Crystal Malt, cracked grain
100g Wheat Malt Extract
50g Cascade hops
15g Magnum hops
Yeast nutrient
Saf 05 yeast

Instructions

Rehydrate the yeast as normal plus add quarter
teaspoon of yeast nutrient. Bring 1 litre of water to the boil and add 35g
Cascade hops. Boil for 15 minutes then add 15g of Magnum hops. Boil for another
10 minutes then add 15g of Cascade hops. Boil for another 10 minutes then turn
off and pour into the fermenter. Strain if you wish, I don't. While the hops
are boiling bring around 500mil of water to 70c, add the cracked grain, stir, put
lid on and turn off the heat. Leave to "mini mash" for 20 minutes
then strain through a seive or hop/grain bag into the fermenter. Add the
dextrose and dissolve. Add the malt extract and dissolve. Top up to 23 litres
ensuring that the temperature is 22 to 24c when pitching the yeast. Ferment
until finished but do not go down below SG 1010. Bottle and mature as usual. As
with most home crafted beers these will get much better with age. Be patient
and enjoy.

I've added the Wheat Malt for perhaps a better head.
Ive also put it on Ian's Kit & Extract Beer Designer and it indicates everything good.However I'm still bumbling my way around the Designer so any comments would be appreciated.
 

manticle

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No. Partial means that part of the fermentable sugar comes from base grain which is mashed (not steeped spec grain). Stands for partial mash.

I think you'd be better off boiling up part of the malt extract (100g per L of water) and boiling your hops in that. Run it through the spreadsheet again to check the IBU levels and adjust if necessary.

If you can get the temp lower than 22 when pitching, that would be better - certainly try and get it lower immediately after pitching/before fermentation begins.

I have no idea why it says do not allow to drop below 1010. I don't expect it would given the ingredients but you should make sure the beer has finished fermenting before bottling, even if it does drop a little lower.

If rehydrating, follow the instructions from the yeast manufacturer.

"rehydration instructions

Sprinkle the yeast in minimum 10 times its weight of sterile water or wort at 27°

C± 3°C (80°F ± 6°F). Leave to rest 15 to 30 minutes.

Gently stir for 30 minutes, and pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel.

Alternatively, pitch the yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20°C (68°F). Progressively sprinkle the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes, then mix the wort using aeration or by wort addition. "

FROM HERE: http://charlesfaram.co.uk/Portals/0/Docs/Fermentis/SFA_US05.pdf
 

carniebrew

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He's using only specialty grain (the crystal). So the grain is steeping, not mashing. It's a full extract brew rather than a partial or mini mash.

jhay, are you bottling or kegging it? I have it coming out as 5.2%abv before bottling, so if you are bottling, it'll end up closer to 5.7%.

Also i'd drop the dextrose down to no more than 300 grams, and up the wheat extract in its place.

The hop additions are a bit curious too, Magnum's normally a bittering hop, so it's weird to see the Cascade going in first. And it looks like a 35 minute boil, with no extract in the pot, so you might get some harsh flavours from the hops.

Maybe have a look at this guide I wrote a few weeks back about extract with specialty grain brews...the numbered points towards the bottom in particular. I think you'd get a better result doing a full 60 minute boil with a lot more water in the pot, and enough extract in there to get the boil gravity up to around 1.040.
 

carniebrew

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If you would prefer a 60 minute boil, using extract in the pot, you could tweak it to look like this:

23 litres, 5.3% (after bottling), 37IBU (using hop concentration factor and a 4l boil volume) - OG/FG: 1049/1012

3kg light LME
300gm wheat dme
250gm Crystal 120
150gm dextrose

30gm Magnum @ 60
30gm Cascade @ 20
20gm Cascade @ 10

Steep the grain in 4l water at around 70C for 30 mins. Rinse then dispose of the grain, bring to the boil. Add the 300gm wheat dme to the pot and your magnum, start 60m timer. Add the cascade with 20 and 10 minutes remaining.

Either add the light lme towards the very end of the boil, or pour the boiled wort into the fermenter, add the lme, mix well, and top up to 23l. Pitch yeast as close to 20 as possible, ferment as close to 18 as possible.
 

jhay

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Carniebrew,I'll go with your suggested recipe as that makes sense with the boiling.The calculator shows after this input that IBU and EBC are high and the % alcohol as 4.7% in the bottle.I've had to sue Wheat Carmel Malt as I couldn't find just Wheat Malt in the calc.
To answer your first question I will be bottling.
Thanks for the comments.
 

carniebrew

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Don't bother with wheat malt (carawheat)....just buy a bag of wheat DME. I use it in virtually all my pale/amber ale recipes, ever since making my first extract Dr Smurto's Golden Ale.....

Oh, and with the calculator...if you're doing a 4 litre boil as suggested, turn on the "hop concentration factor" and change your boil volume to 4 litres. That'll fix the IBU being high.

And i've just plugged it all into the spreadsheet again...I think I have the hops wrong to get 40IBU. With HCF turned on, and 4l boil, 30gm (not 20 as i said above, i'll edit it) of Magnum @ 60 should get you 25IBU, with the 2 cascade additions giving you 8.5 and 3.3 after that....so 37IBU. Maybe don't go too high with the hops on this first one....when using hop concentration math things can go a little awry...my DSGA was meant to have 35 IBU in a 7 litre boil, but I reckon it came out much closer to the 45 that not using HCF would suggest.
 

carniebrew

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YOu can manually add Carawheat to Ian's spreadsheet if you want...insert a row after CaraVienna and enter this:



CaraWheat

120.0

1.034

But it's similar enough to the Caramel Wheat Malt that is already there.
 

Chiro

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I have tried lots of LCPA recipes with Kits and extract brews. This one posted on the coopers site by Adam H is by far the best and the closest I have tried. I just halved the FO and dry hopped additions as I was using pellets.


1 x Coopers Pale Ale Can
1 x Black Rock Liquid Amber Malt (only brand they have at my store, and it went well in the Amber Yak)
500g DME
15g Cascade pellets @ 40 mins
3 x Cascade plugs (14 g each plug? = 42 grams) @ 10mins
3 x Cascade plugs at flame out
35g Galaxy flowers at flame out
15g galaxy flowers after day 3 - just for a bit more hoppiness

23L
15g US-05 yeast rehydrated.
Brew @ 20 degrees C

OG approx. 1.051, GF approx. 1.013
EBC = 20
IBU = 44
ABV = 5.3% bottled
 

JBrew

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carniebrew said:
If you would prefer a 60 minute boil, using extract in the pot, you could tweak it to look like this:

23 litres, 5.3% (after bottling), 37IBU (using hop concentration factor and a 4l boil volume) - OG/FG: 1049/1012

3kg light LME
300gm wheat dme
250gm Crystal 120
150gm dextrose

30gm Magnum @ 60
30gm Cascade @ 20
20gm Cascade @ 10

Steep the grain in 4l water at around 70C for 30 mins. Rinse then dispose of the grain, bring to the boil. Add the 300gm wheat dme to the pot and your magnum, start 60m timer. Add the cascade with 20 and 10 minutes remaining.

Either add the light lme towards the very end of the boil, or pour the boiled wort into the fermenter, add the lme, mix well, and top up to 23l. Pitch yeast as close to 20 as possible, ferment as close to 18 as possible.
 

JBrew

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Hi Carniebrew,

I had a crack at your recipe above on Saturday as my second brew attempt and first extract brew. I poured a sample from the fermenter yesterday after 4 days and beer was very murky and left a whole lot of oily greenish white sludge at the bottom of the glass. It smelled and tasted ok but had obvious pulpy bits in it that left a tingle sensation in the back of my throat.

Used US05 for the yeast.

Is this an indication that batch is no good or is the above description expected with this recipe? My first batch was fresh wort golden ale from LHBS also using US05 and at day 4 was quite different.

Cheers,

J
 

Scottye

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Hey J

I would suggest that 4 days in the FV is way to early to be tasting a brew, but I get that you are keen. I've never tatsed one that early so I can't comment for sure on whether it's normal but I guessing that it is. My brews don't normally start to clear up until around 10 days in the FV, the yeast needs to do its job in munching through all those sugars, floc and drop out of suspension. I normally take an SG reading between 10 & 14 days and will taste it then. Even then the hydro tube ends up with a white sediment.

As for the green sludge, did you strain your hops or dump the lot straight in? It will also fall out of suspension and into the trub if you give in long enough.

:kooi:
 

JBrew

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Cheers for clearing that up Von. All is not lost! Def a little eager...
 

Scottye

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No problems J

You've certainly got some "go in ya", going for a full extract on your second brew.
It's bound to be streets ahead of your first brew, most often even a K&K as a second brew its streets ahead.
 

menoetes

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Having reread the threat I rescind my previous question and replace it with a new one. I'm sure ht LC Pale Ale has the taste of some chinook hops in it. If you were going to add them, how much and when? I was thinking of a hop profile like this:

30gm Magnum @ 60 minutes
20gm Cascade @ 20 minutes
10gm Chinook @ 20 minutes
10gm Cascade @ 10 minutes
10gm Chinook @ 10 minutes

possible dry hopping of the cascade? I'd like some help with this as I haven't used many hops before...
 

manson81

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I made this yesterday. It seems like it should be pretty spot on, but only time and taste will tell...

2kg Liquid LME
1kg Liquid WME
250g Crystal, steeped 30 min

19g Chinook @ 60
20g Cascade @ 15
10g Cascade @ 5
US-05

Estimated OG: 1046
Actual OG: 1041 (I'm shit at reading hydrometers)

Estimated IBU: 38.5
Estimated ABV: 4.6 (KEG)
 

menoetes

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Cheers Manson, but are you going to get any flavour from the Chinook dropping it into the boil so early? Also what size was your boil?

Damn but but getting the hops right has to be the hardest part of extract cloning...
 

Norris

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Hi all, thought I'd give a LCPA clone ago for my second brew. My first brew was a S&W Pacific Ale, which turned out very nice. Thinking of putting together the following recipe and doing it tomorrow:

1.5kg Morgan Unhopped Extra Pale Ale
1.5kg Coopers Light Malt
0.25kg Coopers Wheat Malt

Hops
Goldings 30g 35min (15.68IBU)
Cascade 45g 15min (21.94IBU)
Cascade 40g 0min
Galaxy 20g 0min

US-05 Yeast

OG 1.050
EFG 1.012
IBU 37.6
EBC 5.4
ABV 5.4%

Boil Volume: 5L

Calculations by K&E spreadsheet.

Reason I decided on the unhopped was to try and use the Hop schedule I found in an article from a head brewer at LC. I have slightly modified it though to reach the ideal IBU.

I am open to suggestions.
 

Nebojsha

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I have tried lots of LCPA recipes with Kits and extract brews. This one posted on the coopers site by Adam H is by far the best and the closest I have tried. I just halved the FO and dry hopped additions as I was using pellets.


1 x Coopers Pale Ale Can
1 x Black Rock Liquid Amber Malt (only brand they have at my store, and it went well in the Amber Yak)
500g DME
15g Cascade pellets @ 40 mins
3 x Cascade plugs (14 g each plug? = 42 grams) @ 10mins
3 x Cascade plugs at flame out
35g Galaxy flowers at flame out
15g galaxy flowers after day 3 - just for a bit more hoppiness

23L
15g US-05 yeast rehydrated.
Brew @ 20 degrees C

OG approx. 1.051, GF approx. 1.013
EBC = 20
IBU = 44
ABV = 5.3% bottled
Love the recipe.

Just wondering, what is the boil volume and boil time for the amber mal and the DME? And how long do you leave the hops in that go in at flame out?

Thank you
 

SKBugs

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Has anyone got any updates or reports on any latest offerings?
 

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