Lauter Helix.

[wide eyed and legless]

Hmmm

Must be something wrong with my set up somehow as I have mine configured the same as Coalminer in a 20lt Brau and have used it twice and it takes for ever to drain like maybe an hour.

I use about 100g of pallets free in the boil, add brewbrite 15 mins before end of boil, chill to under 30C with an immersion chiller, water temp permitting, whirlpool and then let stand for about 45 mins and then drain. First couple of liters maybe 5 flow OK but from then on it gets slower and slower to the point about half way though it is down to a trickle.

Maybe the spring is a tad long and staying too compressed. Will try stretching the spring next time unless others have other suggestions

Cheers

Wobbly

I wouldn't go stretching it wobbly, the tighter the coils the better, and that amount of hops would be no bother, when I empty mine the flow is more or less constant. On Ealing Drop's photo it looks like the spring isn't all the way in, but I don't know why that would make a difference.

 

[wobbly]

Once you get it started it's really just like screwing it in.

I had an off-cut and a copper connector laying around so I made a short video.

BDD's use in the video of a connector on the end of the spring that would then slide into the Tee piece would be a good option as a permanent addition as it would make installing and removing the helix a breeze

Wobbly

 

[wide eyed and legless]

BDD's use in the video of a connector on the end of the spring that would then slide into the Tee piece would be a good option as a permanent addition as it would make installing and removing the helix a breeze

Wobbly

That is just a reducer he is using to demonstrate, if you wanted an easier option you could try silicone tube which fits in both ends, but it is easy if you twist the coil the same way as it is wound to reduce the diameter.

 

[Black Devil Dog]

BDD's use in the video of a connector on the end of the spring that would then slide into the Tee piece would be a good option as a permanent addition as it would make installing and removing the helix a breeze



Wobbly, you could use a copper capillary connector and a short length of copper tubing to connect to the 'T'piece.

I had to cut mine to fit around the elements and re-joined it using 2 capillary connectors and some copper tube. the tube slips in and out very easily.

If I was doing it again, instead of cutting it, I'd connect using 1 capillary connector and tubing to the 'T' piece.

 

[clarkie54]

Hi C54 is that with a 20L BM? If so, what's the estimated time to drain 20 odd litres?

After a whirlpool I let it sit for 20 minutes, then very slowly open the tap very slightly but regardless of how much I open even for a moment to see if it could flow faster it took almost an hour to drain about 3/4. The flow was so slow that it eventually stopped and I still had about 5 litres left.

It adds an 1.5 extra hours into brew day and I wonder if there's still something else that needs looking into. I appreciate the clarity going into fermenter, but I've got a conical now and don't need to worry about trub as much.

One last attempt this weekend with the Helix....
]

Yeh BM20. I was having results similar to yours, not quite as bad tho. More 40 mins. So I took it out in frustration but thought I’ll try it again with the original tap. I have a conical too so was prepared to go without.

I mainly hop stand with my immersion chiller. Brew brite at 10 mins. So chill to 80, take out IC then whirlpool with hops for half hour, add the chiller back and everything is settling while chilling.

A few things. When I installed the helix back in I did make sure it wasn’t too tight as I think that could be a problem. E.g I raised it a cm or so opposite to the tap to lengthen the diameter a bit, insert it as far as I could into the copper join etc. When whirlpooling stir around the middle stalk as close as possible, not out as far as the electric coil. The tap I think helps so it doesn’t suck the whirlpooled trub back to the coil.

All up 5 - 10 mins to fill the conical, even tho the original tap doesn’t flow as much as a ball valve. My 2c and hopefully I keep getting the same results.

 

[Black Devil Dog]

Good that you've got it sorted.
I don't know what difference the original tap would make compared to a ball valve though. Sure, the flow is slower with the original, but if you only half open the ball valve, that would be similar. I use a ball valve with mine and it works fine.
Where you stir whirlpool shouldn't affect it either, I wouldn't think. As long as you get a strong vortex, the trub should settle in the centre.

 

[EalingDrop]

Yeh BM20. I was having results similar to yours, not quite as bad tho. More 40 mins. So I took it out in frustration but thought I’ll try it again with the original tap. I have a conical too so was prepared to go without.

I mainly hop stand with my immersion chiller. Brew brite at 10 mins. So chill to 80, take out IC then whirlpool with hops for half hour, add the chiller back and everything is settling while chilling.

A few things. When I installed the helix back in I did make sure it wasn’t too tight as I think that could be a problem. E.g I raised it a cm or so opposite to the tap to lengthen the diameter a bit, insert it as far as I could into the copper join etc. When whirlpooling stir around the middle stalk as close as possible, not out as far as the electric coil. The tap I think helps so it doesn’t suck the whirlpooled trub back to the coil.

All up 5 - 10 mins to fill the conical, even tho the original tap doesn’t flow as much as a ball valve. My 2c and hopefully I keep getting the same results.

Thanks for that. I've just gone and cut it bit shorter, so it's a much smoother circle. The basics from what I gather is to reduce any straight sections as we need as much curvature as possible.

 

[Matthias HOSSFELD]

Hi there downunder!
This is Matthias, (the "Matt" from "MattMill"). I am new in this forum.
I am the inventor of the Lauterhelix Läuterhexe and I am "delighted" to see my babies here again.

 

[Jack of all biers]

Meister des werbungen/marketing! Na, Matthias!

Ich mag's

 

[Matthias HOSSFELD]

Sorry for appearing marketing-concentrated!
But I am just happy, my babies seem to find friends on the oposite side of the globe! Some years ago, I'd never believe in this.

 

[Jack of all biers]

Understandable mate (Kumpel). I'd be pleased if I were you too.

 

[scooterism]

Ok, I'm interested.

I have a 70L kettle which is about 450mm DIA, so just under 1500 CIRC.
And I pump.

Would I need 2?

May I have a quote w/ shipping to 4227 please?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

You would need 1 1/2 lengths. Will send a PM.

 

[Black Devil Dog]

Make sure you put the Lauter Helix in before you add the strike water. I forgot today and had to wrestle it into place with about 65 litres of water in my Brau.

I add my water cold so that's ok.

But I can't find an option on Beersmith that allows me to add 25ml of armpit sweat into my recipe.

 

[Matthias HOSSFELD]

Hello,
there are some guys in Europe lautering with the 1800 Läuterhexe 160L and more.
(normal batches are 20-70L, it works for several thousands of excited homebrewers all over europe as a fantastic flexible and foolproof system)
Not the helix is the filter, but the fluffy marc (?) bed. (in german: Treberkuchen)
Please note: normally there shouldn't be any underpressure. It works as best in lautering only by gravity. Too fast lautering, esp. in the beginning of the process, encourages clogging. When the filter bed is built, the wort will run out rapidly in one.
If you use the Lauter Helix in the mash tun or kettle, not in a separate lauter tun, it is good to free it once before lautering from dropped off fine grist and mud with the paddle before start lautering with a settling of appr.15min.
Lautering time should be 1L/min. and it will work great with absolutly clear wort, in any quantity.
best regards
Matthias
PS: I started home brewing in 1986 with a nappy! This lautering method was state of the art at that time!

 

[wide eyed and legless]

This just gets better, brewed an Irish Red , didn't turn out as red as I thought it would, though never used any fancy grain just the roasted barley.
Lauter helix drained really well, made a slight alteration to outlet.

 

[Dave70]

This just gets better, brewed an Irish Red , didn't turn out as red as I thought it would, though never used any fancy grain just the roasted barley.
Lauter helix drained really well, made a slight alteration to outlet.
View attachment 111631 View attachment 111632

Where did you get the helix?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

China, the originals are sold here but costs $95 let me know if you want one.

 

[Matthias HOSSFELD]

Bought in China!?
Bad news for me as the inventor and developer, as well for my australian distributor.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

While it is a really good idea Matthias it is only an extension spring, as this proves some of the most simple ideas are the ones that can achieve the best result. I would like to know what made you think of it?