Lauter Helix.

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First brew the other day with this was a disaster.

Ended up with pretty much all the trub and hops in the cube after a lot of swearing. The helix just clogged up too easily and I had to keep kinking it with a spoon to get any flow through it.

I must be doing something wrong. Is there a trick to it?
 
Nick, you have to try and keep it to the outer edge of your kettle, get a good whirlpool and open your valve slowly, the only time mine clogged up was with a load of flaked maize in the mix. The last two brews I did on the Guten I opened the valve fully and still barely got any trub or anything going into the cube.
 
First brew the other day with this was a disaster.

Ended up with pretty much all the trub and hops in the cube after a lot of swearing. The helix just clogged up too easily and I had to keep kinking it with a spoon to get any flow through it.

I must be doing something wrong. Is there a trick to it?

Similar here, although it was fine until about the last 5L (not including trub volume). This was with 170g of hops in the kettle. I think I'll still have to bag them in future.
 
Gave mine its first run on the weekend. I usually get either get a shitload of trub in the cube, or leave about 3L in the urn. I ended up with minimal trub in the cube and only 1.5L left in the urn....great success! There were minimal hops in this one though, so I'll be interested to see how it goes with the IPA that I have planned soon. No trouble with flow at all this run either
 
Got mine in the mail. Thanks mate.
Be a little while until I use it but just looking at that coil I can see itll work perfectly for my new system.
Where did you get that spring coil from wide eyed?
 
I'll be using one of these in a 1-vessel system i'm designing, so I've been doing a lot of reading over the past few months.

First brew the other day with this was a disaster.

The issue with your specific installation is definitely that the spring lacks curvature to open it up. In the image you posted, the end of the spring is perfectly straight which means it's tight and not doing any filtering at all - it's pretty much a solid pipe at that point under negative pressure. Curvature is needed to cause the outside of the spring to open up, creating wedge-shaped (pie shaped) spaces in the coils.

It will be much easier to maintain shape if both ends of the spring are held in place, like for example by a Tee.
 
They are the best system I have come across for filtering the wort, but they will have to be tweaked to fit your system, the 20 litre BM owners who bought should be able to slot them straight in. the spring tension should be used to keep it firmly around the perimeter of the kettle, if you have a larger kettle and didn't buy 2 springs can make it up with 2 connectors and some silicone.
This is the Bombay IPA i did a couple of weeks ago with 180 grams of hops.
001.JPG
A 400 micron hop sock inserted into the cube and what it caught.
010.JPG

And a good whirlpool.
 
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Nick, you have to try and keep it to the outer edge of your kettle, get a good whirlpool and open your valve slowly, the only time mine clogged up was with a load of flaked maize in the mix. The last two brews I did on the Guten I opened the valve fully and still barely got any trub or anything going into the cube.

I'll try this next time. Should I create a whirlpool at flameout, then let it sit for 10-15mins to let the break fall out of suspension and then crack the tap slowly?

I might get a T piece too to get rid of the straght section and create a slightly tighter curve.

Similar here, although it was fine until about the last 5L (not including trub volume). This was with 170g of hops in the kettle. I think I'll still have to bag them in future.

My brew was only 20g FWH and 20g at 5mins so not much really.

I'll be using one of these in a 1-vessel system i'm designing, so I've been doing a lot of reading over the past few months.



The issue with your specific installation is definitely that the spring lacks curvature to open it up. In the image you posted, the end of the spring is perfectly straight which means it's tight and not doing any filtering at all - it's pretty much a solid pipe at that point under negative pressure. Curvature is needed to cause the outside of the spring to open up, creating wedge-shaped (pie shaped) spaces in the coils.

It will be much easier to maintain shape if both ends of the spring are held in place, like for example by a Tee.

I get waqht your saying and agree it will help, but I dont think its the casue of my problem here. See the pic from WEAL in this post https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/lauter-helix.95579/#post-1462782. that looks very similar to mine in terms of the position of the helix, but he has managed ot get a nice pile of trub an hops in the centre of the kettle.

I think maybe I didnt let the trub settle for long enough before racking to the cube. Next time I will let it sit for longer. I'm just impatient!

Thanks for the replies guys.
 
Had a similar problem to Liam_snorkel with my BM20, also with 160g of whirlpool hops. Perfect speed for the first 15L, slow thereafter. But I didn't have the helix in the right spot. I have now taken the spring out of the t piece and ran it round the vertical part of the element, exactly like the photo Weal took. So it's right on the outer edge of the curve of the urn. Plugged it back into the t piece and ready for the next brew which will be a similar amount of hops.
 
Mine was right around the outer edge. I don't get a great whirlpool in the urn because of it's exposed element and smaller diameter than the BM I guess.
 
That also crossed my mind with lionman's set up, I did wonder if his element is acting as a baffle against getting a decent whirlpool.Would a perferated plate as a false bottom help? Should at least get a good whirlpool with nothing to impede it.
 
Nick, you have to try and keep it to the outer edge of your kettle, get a good whirlpool and open your valve slowly, the only time mine clogged up was with a load of flaked maize in the mix. The last two brews I did on the Guten I opened the valve fully and still barely got any trub or anything going into the cube.

Did another brew the other day. A red IPA. Worked great this time.

I tucked the end of the helix under the elbow and it helped form an even curve across the length of the helix.

I waited longer after heat was off to allow more of the trub to settle and then opened the valve only partially.

Drained perfectly and left all the kettle trub behind. Happy days!

Thanks mate.
 
WEAL, off to Keg King later, I want to block up 1 end of the T-Piece and also ideally the end of the spring, I think you sent me the sizes in the past but I can't find it on the thread, if you have a minute mate can you let me know the size I need to get. Cheers
 
1/2 inch BSP, I will send you an elbow if you like, you can also cover the end of the helix with a copper capillary 20mm end cap,
available from Bunnings.
 
Hi fellas,
I read with interest about the lauter helix. Where can i get one about 1800mm long?
Thanks
Tractor
 
PM WEAL he has the 1 meter one but I believe you can connect them, done 3 brews with mine now hasn't missed a beat, the clearest wort I have ever had.
 
Brewday today, went with the helix around the outside this time, put the end over the top of the tap rather than inside.

About 200g of hops in this one, happy with the results not sure would have got away with much more looking at it but got my full amount into fermentor so no complaints. Also used the old bazooka to good effect as this was a 6.5 kg grain bill.

Could probably have got a better Whirlpool with more time just used the mixing paddle to swirl
 

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