It couldn't be simpler buddy.mckenry said:Frank is going to post me a new roller, which means I'll have one fluted, one knurled roller. Ive seen a few on here have that too and am happy to read they are happy with its performance in this configuration. For those that have replaced a roller, how hard was it? Cant get a visual right now. When do you realise that it needs to be sanded? The email I have says "if its a tight fit" I dont want to bother him with more and more questions so I'm asking here. What / which part is a tight fit, if at all? Can you tell before you have 30 parts of a mill on your bench?
Perfect reply.Crusty said:It couldn't be simpler buddy.
I just unscrewed the two adjustment locking pins, 2 bolts on either side to allow the end to pop out. Slide off the gap adjustment knobs. The rollers just slipped out from the other end. The shaft on my new roller wouldn't allow the adjustment knob to seat fully so you just sandpaper the little round copper olive inside your adjustment knob until it seats all the way home. It takes a while so grab a beer. It took me about an hour but by God, the mill is a grain eating machine now.
Yeah this too. I've just finished dodging up my new mill, I think I have some choc malt that's a bit old I'll throw through for it's maiden run, currently set to the width of a metric standard myki card spose its as good as anywhere to start.dicko said:Hi Brissy Brew,
What would be your recommendations on the gap setting for a nominal crush on the two fluted roller model. ?
yes, if I am reading between the lines of a previous post there is no correlation between the gap on knurled compare to fluted rollers.Bridges said:Yeah this too. I've just finished dodging up my new mill, I think I have some choc malt that's a bit old I'll throw through for it's maiden run, currently set to the width of a metric standard myki card spose its as good as anywhere to start.
20160228_165333.jpg
I have closed mine down to 1mm and my mate is getting 77% to 78% MASH EFFICIENCY in his BM 20Bridges said:I run a 20Litre BM and have the dual fluted rollers on my new mill. Is anyone else running similar, so I can work out a starting point for the gap? Cheers!
I have milled once with my new mill with the (double) fluted rollers. I received some advice from Frank (see post #220 in this thread) regarding crush size and he recommended a 0.6mm gap (as a start) which seemed a tad fine for my set-up (Grandfather - prone to stuck fly sparges with fine grist) so I started at 1.3mm. It came out a little coarse with a noticeable number of intact barley grains, so i put it through again at 1mm. It looked pretty good (freed up the husks, grains cracked) so I went with it. There was a little more flour than I have noted with previous shop milled grists, but i didn't have too much trouble with the sparge. My fly sparges have been almost instant with previous shop grain crushes, but at 1mm gap the sparge took about 15 minutes which is not too bad. 5.6kg of grain giving pre-boil gravity of 1054 for 28L. Brewsmith calculated mash efficiency of 86%. It was a cool mash (63C) after a protein rest as I'm aiming for a dry finish for my Saison. However if i've got it right (i'm a newb) the temperature of the mash will affect fermentability but have little impact on mash efficiency. My mash pH was a tad low (4.9) and I'm not sure what impact that will have.dicko said:I have closed mine down to 1mm and my mate is getting 77% to 78% MASH EFFICIENCY in his BM 20
I did a brew at around 1.1mm and got 77% on my BM.
I am interested to see if we get an increase with the fluted rollers.
When I finally brew again I will report back.
I would appreciate BrissyBrews thoughts on this..
Thank you for your input and comments.Chridech said:I have milled once with my new mill with the (double) fluted rollers. I received some advice from Frank (see post #220 in this thread) regarding crush size and he recommended a 0.6mm gap (as a start) which seemed a tad fine for my set-up (Grandfather - prone to stuck fly sparges with fine grist) so I started at 1.3mm. It came out a little coarse with a noticeable number of intact barley grains, so i put it through again at 1mm. It looked pretty good (freed up the husks, grains cracked) so I went with it. There was a little more flour than I have noted with previous shop milled grists, but i didn't have too much trouble with the sparge. My fly sparges have been almost instant with previous shop grain crushes, but at 1mm gap the sparge took about 15 minutes which is not too bad. 5.6kg of grain giving pre-boil gravity of 1054 for 28L. Brewsmith calculated mash efficiency of 86%. It was a cool mash (63C) after a protein rest as I'm aiming for a dry finish for my Saison. However if i've got it right (i'm a newb) the temperature of the mash will affect fermentability but have little impact on mash efficiency. My mash pH was a tad low (4.9) and I'm not sure what impact that will have.
So I'm pretty happy with a mill gap of 1mm for the Grainfather, and will use this again next time. Don't know a lot about the BM but I suspect 1mm is going to be in the ballpark. Also don't know what a second pass through the mill does for grain that is already partially cracked?
Nice hopper Bridges! Howd ya make it? Some kind of down pipe/rainwater filter bits?Bridges said:Yeah this too. I've just finished dodging up my new mill, I think I have some choc malt that's a bit old I'll throw through for it's maiden run, currently set to the width of a metric standard myki card spose its as good as anywhere to start.
20160228_165333.jpg
I've settled on 0.9mm gap with 2 fluted rollers. I find I get the best crush with the mill just ticking over. It's a bit slower but less flour produced. Even going slow it still mills in a quarter of the time compared to the knurled rollers.dicko said:Thank you for your input and comments.
I crush grain for other brewers as well as myself and at the moment I have only done it for myself with a BM and one other with a BM.
With a setting of close to 1mm we are achieving approximately the same Mash Efficiency that we were getting with the 1.2mm on the knurled set up.
When I am personally ready to do another brew for myself I will close it down to 0.9mm and give it a try.
I would not do this for others in case it causes wort fountains or drops efficiency.
At 1.0mm there is very little flour and all husks are still in tact, indicating that we must be pretty close.
My first brew was at 1.2 with the new rollers and I still got very close to my original mash efficiency.
I consider that one only result is not an accurate assessment as I used to vary around 1 to 2 percent with the knurled rollers depending on the type of grain...eg wheat, oats etc etc.
As long as all the brewers with two flutes and the others with a combination continue to report then it gives us all a good chance of getting the gap very close for our individual requirements.
Exactly!nosco said:Nice hopper Bridges! Howd ya make it? Some kind of down pipe/rainwater filter bits?
Legen........ wait for it...........dary.Bridges said:Exactly!
Went to the green shed. Didn't get a sausage got these or something similar
Hopper; http://www.bunnings.com.au/rain-harvesting-rain-head-leaf-catcha-dual-fit_p4760081
Adaptor thing; http://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-100-x-50-x-90mm-pvc-stormwater-downpipe-adaptor_p4770382
The bit I fixed to the ply (which I carved out an angled slot in) and attached to the mill; http://www.bunnings.com.au/icon-pvc-square-downpipe-pop-for-metal-gutter_p4775627
Thanks Smoko for your input, I'll dig out the feeler gauges and set to 0.9mm too for a brew sometime in the next week.
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