Kiss Approach To P.h Adjustment

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jpiwek

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Hi Guys,

Could someone put me on to a link for real basic ph adjustment info (or any at all) a search for Ph brings up nothing.

Im after a KISS approach to start out with and progress from there. Id really like to know if it could be as simple as just adjusting the ph once all the werts in the boiler or if more is involved

Thanks allot, Jase.
 
i was browsing that site earlier and came accross that stabiliser too. some feedback on how good it is would be great as i might try a partial in another 5 or 6 brews
 
This is as easy as it gets.

5.2 ph Stabiliser

Thanks Jye, I looked into that that a while back and will probably give it a go but I would really like to get that next step involved then just using an off the shelf fix all product.

Can anyone tell me how to do a search for ph?
 
start by reading the chapter of water adjustment in howtobrew

www.howtobrew.com
 
Thanks Jye, I looked into that that a while back and will probably give it a go but I would really like to get that next step involved then just using an off the shelf fix all product.

Can anyone tell me how to do a search for ph?

The AHB search function doesnt work with 3 letter words and smaller so try 'ph site:www.aussiehomebrewer.com' in google.

If you want to know more read chapter 15 of howtobrew.com as OB mentioned, and more importantly 15.3 on Residual Alkalinity. The nomograph is very useful along with a brewing program like Beersmith or Promash to do some of the calculation, even thou they arent very hard to do my hand. Plus you will also need to get a water report, you can not add salts without a starting point.

Take your time and read it over :)

Heres an example for Brisbane water, link.
 
Jase, unfortunately it's not all that simple. There is a lot of information out there and much of it not all that helpful. The 5.2 product may be a magic bullet but I've never used it so I can't offer any advice there.

OldBugman has sent you down the right path - chapter 15 in How to Brew is really the best treatise on mash pH going around. Almost every book on brewing misses the concept that Palmer talks about - residual alkalinity. All the other books mess around too much with matching water profiles - this is generally a bum steer.

The basic principle is to get your mash pH to between 5.4 and 5.7 (when measured at room temperature). This ensures the right conditions for the mash enzymes and the correct pH for the finished beer. You need to do this during the mash, not afterwards as you mentioned.

The main two factors affecting your mash pH are the various ion levels in your water and the colour of your mash - determined by the amount of dark grains. Compounds in the grains combine with the ions in the water and determine your mash pH. In general, darker grains lower pH, calcium ions lower pH and carbonates raise pH. Other ions, like sodium and sulphates, change the flavour of your beer.

I find, with my water chemistry, that I can use a bit of gypsum or lactic acid to lower pH in pale beers, and a bit of sodium bicarbonate to raise pH in very dark beers. Amber coloured beers are the sweet spot for my water - I don't need to adjust with them.

The best resources I found are:

- Palmer's chapter 15 - http://howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html
- Noonan's "New Brewing Lager Beers" - although he completely misses the critical "residual alkalinity" concept it covers general brewing water chemistry very well.
- Two episodes of the "Basic Brewing Radio" podcast - the episodes "pH with John Palmer" and "Water with Greg Noonan". Both are full of solid practical advice.
- The "Water Chemistry Spreadsheet" on this page: http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/ - I find it gives better figures than Palmer's spreadsheet - it's only deficiency is that it doesn't list sodium bicarb as a possible addition.
- Search here (or the web) on "residual alkalinity". Be wary of blindly attempting to match famous water profiles.

The best advice I heard on water chemistry was in one of the podcasts I mentioned - don't mess around with your water chemistry unless you are sure you have a problem with it.
 
Thanks for that linky OldBugman can tell Ill be in for a long nite...betta get the jug out :beerbang:

Google ph, thats a good Idea Jye, Im also going to go over the Brisban water link. Hope its similar to Gold Coast water.
 
Go to you local pool shop and ask about the ph in your area.
He might even know you local water profile if you by som ph strips and chemicals from him.

I adjust with gypsum or citric acid. Using ph strips is good enough for me.

Good luck
 
Hi Guys,

Could someone put me on to a link for real basic ph adjustment info (or any at all) a search for Ph brings up nothing.

Im after a KISS approach to start out with and progress from there. Id really like to know if it could be as simple as just adjusting the ph once all the werts in the boiler or if more is involved

Thanks allot, Jase.


There's not much point adjusting it then, pH adjustment is most critical during the mash because it affects the whole enzymatic doojiggery.

The best KISS process to pH management is first determining if you are producing inferior beer due to mash pH imbalance. If you're not, then you don't have to do anything. Simple as that.
 
Heffer,

Do you have any idea what your mash pH is already? As someone already said, you really need to have a water report for your particular water because if you just do something simplistic, like 'just add a tablespoon of gypsum' you may be throwing your water way off-balance in other ways.

I was keen to make all sorts of adjustments to my water recently, because I was having a problem with high pH with lighter beer. In the end I decided what I really needed was to add more calcium, which also partly took care of the pH problem, as explained in howtobrew. I think adding acids would be unnecessary in most cases, unless you really have super alkaline water, and if so you would probably be better to dilute than try to adjust.

So, my vote is: if you really have problems with pH, dilute your water or add calcium salts.
 
It's early in the morning....so my brain's lagging at the moment....but how do you "dilute" water ? :huh:
 
I sat down last night and worked out Brisbane water profile using the info here: http://www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/bccwr/lib16...ity_results.pdf

Because the the total hardness is quoted as CaCO3 you need to do some conversions, so I did them. The final values are:

Mt Crosby - April 2007
pH 8
Ca 23
Cl 83
Mg 17
Na 47
SO4 24
CO3 77.4


Enoggera April 2007

pH 7.9
Ca 8.5
Cl 35
Mg 4.8
Na 31
SO4 13
CO3 24.6
 
The best KISS process to pH management is first determining if you are producing inferior beer due to mash pH imbalance. If you're not, then you don't have to do anything. Simple as that.

I'm with Kai - have you got a problem that could be tied to pH? If you have then go with the 5.2 stuff and relax otherwise just relax - life is too short.

Enoch
 
mobrien, they list hardness as CaC03 - you can infer Ca and Mg from this value using the conversions on this page:

http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/brewingwater.htm

yeah - that is true. I was more posting the info for the goldcoast brewers, and as the Mg and Ca tests are more than likely done, a phone call to goldcoast water would probably get the exact values.

Personally, I'm happy - I use Mt Crosby water so I have the analysis for mine :)

M
 
A member from my home brew club did an excellent paper on water treatment that might come in handy.

I don't pretend to understand it all, but the bit at the back gives some pretty helpful guidelines in adding
different compounds for ph adjustment.

http://melbournebrewers.org/wiki/TonyWheel...r+Treatment.pdf

I myself am pretty paranoid about ph levels due to past astringency problems. I always try to go lower rather
than higher, and am careful to monitor the ph at each sparge that I do ( using batch sparge method ). If you go over about 5.8 ph you are pretty sure to get excessive tannins.

Another thing to watch out for is the buffering affect of chlorine. It will hold the ph level high, so you need to filter tap water or at the very least boil it to get rid of the chlorine.

ph level will also affect your mash conversion, and even the brewing process to a lesser degree.

I have also used the 5.2 stabilizer in the past but:

i) It is expensive

ii) I know many experienced brewers who claim it does have an effect on the overall process that
is not always positive, ( yes I know nothing to back up my arguments here, just passing on hearsay etc etc)

But it is easy to use and is probably the simplest solution to the problem.
 

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