Kettle Redesign

[kirem]

I have redesigned my kettle, It is now electric and has a inlet and outlet to try and get a whirlpool happening via a march pump.

The float switch is to prevent power to the element before there is liquid to heat.

I have also had a port put into the base to allow the quick and easy removal of solids.

View attachment 13674

 

[Tony]

is it a 2400W element?

I have one the dame with a 1" thread on it.

I wasthinking of using it to setup a RIMS one day

what size brews do you do.

I know i had trouble bringing My 50 liter HLT up to boilinh with the 2400W element,,,,, thatys why i went for a 3600W element and still no probems

cheers

cheers

 

[kirem]

yep, 3.6kW. Same as I use in my HLT/heat exchanger.

I am working out how I can easily have some sort of interlock to prevent the HLT/ heat exchanger firing up if the kettle is going. I do not want a 30Amp load and tripping breakers or going with two power feeds. There is really no reason to have both going at the same time. More of a safety feature in case I forget to turn something off.

I am also going to trial putting a lid on the kettle until it starts to boil. This will help get it up to boil temp quicker and then I can take off the lid, the nasty volatiles will still escape and the boil becomes more efficient. Any ideas on this?

I mainly do 40L brews, I think I cans till cover the element if I want to do 20L brew.

 

[Franko]

Kirem,
where did you get that float switch.
I have the same type of set up but with a 4.2KW element

Franko

 

[oldbugman]

Wonder how the float will stand up to the boil temps.

have loads of them at work, never thought about using them due to heat.

 

[ant]

I've been looking at using some of these float switches from Omega in my kettle; food grade polysulfone (page lists them as polyprop though???).

Model LV91, 1/2" NPT fitting, good to 107C, listed as $28 per unit...

Was looking to use 2 of these in the kettle; one for minimum water level and one for maximum water level. Now just have to find a third level indicator that can slide up and down according to my estimated strike/sparge volumes.

 

[JasonY]

I have been looking at the treasure trove of toys on McMaster-Carr. This should be a good resource for you ant, not sure they ship to aus (haven't looked since I am here for a few years).

http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=504

 

[ant]

Yep, been looking at McMaster Carr myself, as I'm in the US for a couple of years as well; specifically at a 3 Probe Condictive Liquid Level Switch System on pg 507 of the catalog, or the Multi-point Ultrasonic Liquid Level switch on pg 508, either of which would do the job for that third level indicator, but fairly exxy...

 

[fraser_john]

Sorry guys, I used McMaster a boat load when living in the usa to build my entire setup, I recently ordered some pinch hose clamps from them and they cancelled the order saying that USPS paperwork to send to Australia was no longer worth their effort to fill in!

 

[Lukes]

Kirem,
where did you get that float switch.
I have the same type of set up but with a 4.2KW element

Franko

Someone had previously posted these here:

Float switch

The PPS goes to 120 so should be fine in a kettle.

- Luke

 

[Tony]

yep, 3.6kW. Same as I use in my HLT/heat exchanger.

I am working out how I can easily have some sort of interlock to prevent the HLT/ heat exchanger firing up if the kettle is going. I do not want a 30Amp load and tripping breakers or going with two power feeds. There is really no reason to have both going at the same time. More of a safety feature in case I forget to turn something off.

What about running the control circuit for the two elements main contactors (or SSR's) through the N/O and N/C contacts of a relay.

have the relay turn on and off when the kettle element is required to turn on and off and there for the HLT will only ever run on the other relay contact...... so they will never be on at the same time

easy

I have scribbled a quick drawing and scanned it. I will attach it

cheers

View attachment HLT_Kettle_Interlock.pdf

 

[kirem]

Tony,

YEah that is what I came up with as well. I am not a fan of mechanical relays and would rather use SSRs- I couldn't find a NC SSR. So I may have to bit the bullet and use a mechanical relay.

I asked for a working temperature range for those float switches from Jaycar, no response yet. so I guess trial and error is in order.

Kirk

 

[Tony]

I was more thinking of a small slave relay that switched control power to you 2 SSR's that control the 2 Elements

I use this system to switch solenoids for my HERMS system. heat and bypass solenoids are hooked up to N/O and N/C contacts od a single relay that is switched by the temp controller. So its either one or the other. you cant have both.
I also wored in a manual mode switch that disables the temp controller switching them and allows me to switch either on or have them both off.

works tops

I have posted pics of the rig and its woring in the gallery. you will see a small yellow and blue relay next to the SSR...... thats what controls the s solenoids and if i did what you have done with the electric Kettle, i would do the same for the 2 elements.

I posted a file for the rigs wiring somewhere but i cant remember where now.

cheers

Edit: One little point on the float. Will it tend to bounce up and down during a vigerous boil and switch the elememt on and off?

I think its a fantastic idea but that would be my only concern.

 

[ausdb]

Tony,

YEah that is what I came up with as well. I am not a fan of mechanical relays and would rather use SSRs- I couldn't find a NC SSR. So I may have to bit the bullet and use a mechanical relay.

I asked for a working temperature range for those float switches from Jaycar, no response yet. so I guess trial and error is in order.

Kirk

I have a link somewhere to a small circuit for splitting the power to two SSR,s that I found on the net and will do exactly what you are trying to do, I will look for it tonight as I have been meaning to wire up two SSRS to split the power to my two urns for a while now.

 

[kirem]

Edit: One little point on the float. Will it tend to bounce up and down during a vigerous boil and switch the elememt on and off?

I think its a fantastic idea but that would be my only concern.

I suppose if the level was just over the top of the element, but most of the time the float will be well submerged, maybe the wort movement with do what you are suggesting, I will let you know.

 

[ausdb]

I have a link somewhere to a small circuit for splitting the power to two SSR,s that I found on the net and will do exactly what you are trying to do, I will look for it tonight as I have been meaning to wire up two SSRS to split the power to my two urns for a while now.

Try this page
http://hbd.org/rlaborde/controll.htm

 

[Zizzle]

Probably useless to those without a micro controller and software smarts, but the single conductive rod works well for me.

BTW: that pic is a bit of an optical illusion. The probe actually ends a fair way above the elements.