Kettle Fabrication

[Bribie G]

The red hat wearing rat has a good point!

Possum please, possum (Hat goes off tomorrow)

 

[raven19]

I'm no sparky but when I had the 2400 watt 40L urn on the other day and then switched on an electric jug to make a temperature adjustment the circuit breaker tripped so I can only run one at a time.

Like I say no sparky but since you are using two elements you might want to try out the power point (s) you intend to use.

Lucky man, I'm currently drinking the first pint of my first AG :icon_drool2: and foremost in my mind is "Shyte if only I had brewed a double batch of this" :lol:

Bribie & Carbonator,

Yes I shall be running this over two different circuits, as the 2400W element = around 10 Amps. Hence will have two different cords, one in shed, and the other running back to the house onto a different circuit, to spread the load!

And fire extinguisher on hand also just in case...

One day in my dream brew shed, I shall have a large dedicated power supply so I can brew big with no issues, until then, I shall tread very carefully with the right input from the right people.

Cheers!

 

[raven19]

Are you able to provide further details about the elements like where you got them from and how much they cost?

sap.

Sap, forgot to mention, I did a fair bit of reading up on heating element densities, and the custom internal elements I was quoted were generally well over $200 each, way out of my price range. Hence with the (nearly) free fabrication available to me and the ceramic element option being much cheaper - I figured I am on a winner here...

I am hoping this immediate move to electric AG will be a winning one, with no gas to worry about...

 

[Carbonator]

I can see a heat problem in regards to the plastic enclosures.

I'm not sure about those elements, the enclosures may be OK for a while, but I suggest fabricating an SS setup like this;

 

[raven19]

I can see a heat problem in regards to the plastic enclosures.

Fair point indeed.
I shall be watching it like a hawk when we do a water run initially to see on effects just like this.
Thankyou for the reminder!
Will keep all posted on progress...

 

[raven19]

Just another bit of info I gained this arvo from my mate who fabricated the kettle:

Material (Stainless Steel) $370

Hours to fabricate 15 - 20 hrs (I thought this was quite high, then again a fair bit of welding involved...)

I think I have some more engineering calculations to do to pay back this one!

Will be breaking it in this weekend with a 50L batch of Dr Smurto's Golden Ale.

 

[afromaiko]

Does anyone know if the electric jug elements mounting hole is the same size as the more powerful 'proper' elements?

I'm thinking about using a 2400w jug one now and then perhaps upgrading later when I get a 15amp socket run through to the garage.

 

[raven19]

Does anyone know if the electric jug elements mounting hole is the same size as the more powerful 'proper' elements?

I'm thinking about using a 2400w jug one now and then perhaps upgrading later when I get a 15amp socket run through to the garage.

I have attached a Stokes manual (no affiliation) and some of their 'proper' elements are show with non standard ends, however refer to page 4 - mounting ends. Dimensions shown within.

Hope this of help.

View attachment Stokes_Service_Manual__20Sect_K.pdf

 

[afromaiko]

Certainly does, very interesting... Cheers!

 

[raven19]

Digging up my old thread for an update.

Been upgrading the plastic junction boxes on the kettle tonight - picked up some die cast aluminium box's from Jaycar.

The previous wiring and plastic were not quote up to scratch under longer boils - weakened also by accidentally leaving the element on after draining water from the kettle when mashing in a big batch o' beer a while back. Carbonator was right on the money on his previous post.

Piccies to follow tomorrow after the camera is charged.

 

[raven19]

Finally got around to putting the new kettle housings together.

Still have to shorten some wiring, and a bit of fiddling about.

Replaced the old junction boxes with aluminium die cast boxes around $20 from Jaycar (no affiliation).

A test boil resulted in warm aluminium boxes - but not overly hot. Nature of the beast I'm afraid with these elements at 100%.

 

[matho]

what is your boil off in that kettle raven?

 

[pbrosnan]

It looks like your elements are inside the SS tubing. Doesn't that waste a bit of power? I use a 30L urn as a kettle and like all urns the element is in direct contact with the liquid.

 

[raven19]

what is your boil off in that kettle raven?

About 7 L/hr - I usually have both elements going even for a normal 23L batch for a good rolling boil.

 

[raven19]

It looks like your elements are inside the SS tubing. Doesn't that waste a bit of power? I use a 30L urn as a kettle and like all urns the element is in direct contact with the liquid.

Yeah these ceramic elements cannot handle liquid contact - hence the SS sheath is required.

I went with these elements due to the heat density benefit and lower cost per element.

 

[pbrosnan]

Yeah these ceramic elements cannot handle liquid contact - hence the SS sheath is required.

I went with these elements due to the heat density benefit and lower cost per element.

How long does it take to get a roiling boil going for a given amount of wort?

 

[raven19]

How long does it take to get a roiling boil going for a given amount of wort?

For a 30L preboil batch for example - around 20 mins - but I usually get the kettle cranking once the wort is up to the element level, then continue to top up the kettle as I continue to sparge.

 

[bill_gill85]

Finally got around to putting the new kettle housings together.

Still have to shorten some wiring, and a bit of fiddling about.

Replaced the old junction boxes with aluminium die cast boxes around $20 from Jaycar (no affiliation).

A test boil resulted in warm aluminium boxes - but not overly hot. Nature of the beast I'm afraid with these elements at 100%.

Raven,

Nice finishing touch with the IEC connectors on the junction boxes. If the warm aluminium boxes are a concern, would it be feasable to insert a silicon gasket (cut from a baking sheet) between the box & mounting flange?

Cheers,

Ben

 

[raven19]

Nice finishing touch with the IEC connectors on the junction boxes. If the warm aluminium boxes are a concern, would it be feasable to insert a silicon gasket (cut from a baking sheet) between the box & mounting flange?

I did contemplate this - the aluminium boxes appear to be working nicely as a heat sink - the IEC connectors don't seem to get hot at all (they plastic section is rated to 15A also - each element only pulls 10A).

Maybe I will whip one up and do a side by side experiment! I have some left over silicon bakeware in the shed. Cheers!

 

[husky]

slightly OT but what heat density would be suitable if you were to use exposed elements as opposed to the sheaths for ceremic elements?
I can see this is where the fabrication time blew out on your kettle as there is a fair bit of work in those.
I recently had a 450x450 2mm s/s kettle fabricated and workshop hours were only 5 or 6 hrs(no handles yet). That was with weld inside and out and a slightly domed base.
Basically im at the stage now of sourcing a couple of elements but prior to reading this thread I had only considered the exposed s/s type elements.