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https://www.kegland.com.au/products/32l-304-stainless-steel-conical-fermenter

Just to confirm we are talking about the one in the link above. I am sure a lot of customers use sanitiser just to clean these dump valves out. With that said this type of ball valve has small cavities around the ball and I would recommend boiling between uses as it only takes a few moments to remove the ball valve and it may save you an infection.
Yes, it is that fermenter in your attached link. Thanks for the confirmation.
 
Mashing with full water...no sparge...BIAB type....need to consider dead space under the basket
If this is a question you have already answered it when you said full water.

Why do you think you need more water than full water?

Have a think about why dead space is considered when mashing and you will understand why you have answered your own question.
 
Hi @KegLand-com-au I've recently bought the carb stone for the Brewbuilt X2 triclover port in the fermenter body, wondering if the gas line in needs to be plugged when not in use, i.e. is there a a possibility beer could seep through the stone and out the port or are the pores too small on the stone? Cheers.
 

Sorry we have been going back and forth with design quite a lot on this and the delays have been substantial. I am sorry but we thought this product would already be released but we still have some design changes that we feel are worth waiting for but I can say for sure the FermZilla SS will not be finished for another 2 months at least.
 
Hi @KegLand-com-au I've recently bought the carb stone for the Brewbuilt X2 triclover port in the fermenter body, wondering if the gas line in needs to be plugged when not in use, i.e. is there a a possibility beer could seep through the stone and out the port or are the pores too small on the stone? Cheers.

Yes it's best to use a check valve or plug the hole somehow. It's possible for wort to gradually seep into the stone.
 
Thanks for the reply but the spec sheet lists three rated current variants - 5A, 10A and 16A - so was asking which type is being used in the BZ35 and 65 please? There's no codes visible on the product listing photos or the unit itself in my vessels.

Thank you,

All of the current ratings will work. We have very low current through this device as the thermal breaker is wired to the low voltage controller and not the main AC input. We changed this design some time ago so we could receive the thermal overload error message to the controller.
 
All of the current ratings will work. We have very low current through this device as the thermal breaker is wired to the low voltage controller and not the main AC input. We changed this design some time ago so we could receive the thermal overload error message to the controller.
Yeah, I've already got a brewery controller though so I'm powering the elements directly - would like to know which version of the KSD301 is in use so I know whether it can still be wired in series with the elements or not (obviously needs upgraded wiring to the KSD301 if so).

Thanks,
 
Yeah, I've already got a brewery controller though so I'm powering the elements directly - would like to know which version of the KSD301 is in use so I know whether it can still be wired in series with the elements or not (obviously needs upgraded wiring to the KSD301 if so).

Thanks,

Yes if you are changing the wiring and putting the KSD301 in series then you need to make sure you choose the model that is rated for at least 15amps or more. We generally chose the model that has the 175C cutoff temperature.
 
Yes if you are changing the wiring and putting the KSD301 in series then you need to make sure you choose the model that is rated for at least 15amps or more. We generally chose the model that has the 175C cutoff temperature.
Ok, so you're not able to tell me what the current rating is of the KSD301 that comes installed in the BrewZillas (and is sold as a spare part)?
 
The Quick Swivel connects are a new range of products. We are definitely looking for suggestions on what parts you think you need as we would like to increase this range of connector types.

We only have plans to have these attach to 1/2" threads at this stage but ultimately we would like to make a whole lot of fittings that will connect other fittings to the 1/2" thread.
Any movements on a 1/2” quick swivel that goes to a 1.5” or 3/4” Triclamp connector?
 
No like this so it doesn’t need thread tape and can be removed quickly…
 

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Hi @KegLand-com-au -- I've got the RAPT Pill and fitted the wireless charger. I've recalibrated twice, first a simple and now a two-point, but the readings are way off. The first brew I post-fitting the Pill was 25 points low. The current brew after a two-point calibration is now sitting about 55 points high. Once the current brew is done I'll do another thorough recalibration, but any tips?
 
Hi @KegLand-com-au -- I've got the RAPT Pill and fitted the wireless charger. I've recalibrated twice, first a simple and now a two-point, but the readings are way off. The first brew I post-fitting the Pill was 25 points low. The current brew after a two-point calibration is now sitting about 55 points high. Once the current brew is done I'll do another thorough recalibration, but any tips?
This time it's not even a linear 55 points high, as its now about 12 points high.
 

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