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Probably needs defrosting
Yes that is what we would say too. If it's really badly frosted up open all doors for 24hrs and leave the unit turned off. A large block of ice takes quite a long time to melt.

This happens if you have the temp set quite low.

Also if you do defrost please try to dry up all the water on the floor before turning on again as if you do not all that water will instantly turn to ice again on the evaporator and turn into another block of ice again.
 
Yes that is what we would say too. If it's really badly frosted up open all doors for 24hrs and leave the unit turned off. A large block of ice takes quite a long time to melt.

This happens if you have the temp set quite low.

Also if you do defrost please try to dry up all the water on the floor before turning on again as if you do not all that water will instantly turn to ice again on the evaporator and turn into another block of ice again.

Thank you, will give this a go!
 
Yes that is what we would say too. If it's really badly frosted up open all doors for 24hrs and leave the unit turned off. A large block of ice takes quite a long time to melt.

This happens if you have the temp set quite low.

Also if you do defrost please try to dry up all the water on the floor before turning on again as if you do not all that water will instantly turn to ice again on the evaporator and turn into another block of ice again.
My mate checked and said there was no ice at all!

Is there a small font fan to blow up the tube? Or does it just take a tiny bit of air from the main large fan to blow up the tube? My mate said upon close look the tube is just open on the other side of the shroud/panel so there is no dedicated fan for the tube? Is that how they are supposed to be? I remember setting it up for him and from distant memory thought the air flow up that font tube was substantial.... but when I was over the other week it was dismal, I had to wet my finger and put it near the outlet to even feel the air flow it was that small....
 
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Hey @KegLand-com-au, two questions about the Brewzilla 35 - Gen4:

1. What is the formula for the PID control? I understand how it works on paper but the actual equation would be nice as well to get a deeper understanding of the algorithm without doing empirical tests.

2. I have the RAPT BLE temperature probe connected to my system and used as the main temperature sensor. If the temperature difference between the RAPT and Built-In sensor exceed the 'Allowed sensor diff.' constant, what actually happens? Does the algorithm default back to the Built-In sensor, or is this only to make the user aware that there is a difference?
 
Technically the BrewZilla 100L would be able to get away with the NEMA 14-30. Given that at 220v it would be 6313watts we are just under the 30amp limit at 220v. If that is an option would you prefer the NEMA 14-30 over the NEMA 14-50?

We have seen a large number of Nano-brewerys really love using the BrewZilla 100L unit as it works out to be a really great value product with not much competition in this size range.

I know it's nice to have the power cable unplug from the boiler but we find with brewers using these portable breweries one issue we see a bit is when the cable is not plugged in all the way it can arc quite a bit and cause damage to either the socket or the cable. For appliances that are not moving it's generally not an issue but for some appliances that are on castor wheels like the BrewZilla 100L on the Dolly wheels we sometimes find having the plug on the boiler a bit dicey for these high amp current demand. So this would be our main apprehension to do this.
Well. I had my local brew shop order me in the 100L Brewzilla. On MoreBeer! It finally lists the plug that is being shipped. NEMA 11-30??? This is ungrounded? This is gonna be tough to get running here in the states. I’d have to say this choice of plug seems like a poor option.

Is there any thought to putting out an interchangeable plug option?
 

This is something we already have the tooling to do. We did discuss this with a number of our international distribution partners and they were keen to keep the digiboil a low cost item so it's assessable to BIAB brewers etc.

The dish element is substantially more expensive to manufacture due to the large casting and complicated manufacturing process. With that said if there is a need for this and we get enough requests then we will certainly do this.
 
This is something we already have the tooling to do. We did discuss this with a number of our international distribution partners and they were keen to keep the digiboil a low cost item so it's assessable to BIAB brewers etc.

The dish element is substantially more expensive to manufacture due to the large casting and complicated manufacturing process. With that said if there is a need for this and we get enough requests then we will certainly do this.
+1 request here please 👍
 
@KegLand-com-au, which of the three layers of the hot fill bags is the wort-contact one? What are the chemical characteristics (of whichever layer it is) in relation to leaching when heated? I've used them a couple of times now and they're bloody handy, but I've heard some reservations from other brewers in regards to what if anything is leaching into the wort from the bag plastics?

Thank you
 
This is something we already have the tooling to do. We did discuss this with a number of our international distribution partners and they were keen to keep the digiboil a low cost item so it's assessable to BIAB brewers etc.

The dish element is substantially more expensive to manufacture due to the large casting and complicated manufacturing process. With that said if there is a need for this and we get enough requests then we will certainly do this.
What do you think approximate price might be if you offer the dish based Digiboil, and could the 100L version be possible as well?
For instance, I use a Rasberry Pi Craft Brewer controller set up, so I actually don't want the controller side of things, maybe leave the pump in place, but a bare bones version of Brewzilla, or a Dish Base DigiBoil ( DBDB....bit like an ATAT ;) ) would be awesome.
 
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What do you think approximate price might be if you offer the dish based Digiboil, and could the 100L version be possible as well?
For instance, I use a Rasberry Pi Craft Brewer controller set up, so I actually don't want the controller side of things, maybe leave the pump in place, but a bare bones version of Brewzilla, or a Dish Base DigiBoil ( DBDB....bit like an ATAT ;) ) would be awesome.
I think you will find we would have to sell the 100L version at a very similar price. We would essentially be removing the controller which would only save about $100

A lot of the cost in the BrewZilla is due to the thicker stainless steel, much larger element with lower watt density, the pump is a cost, and also the way it's made with insulation in the base to separate the main board from the element with an insulated zone. So if all these parts are made to the specification the price would only be about $100 difference without controller.

The Digiboils are made to a particular price point but they do have higher watt density the gauge of stainless is more light weight. They are perfect for things like distillation, candle making and other applications like that but just because they look similar I would not say it's the same when you start looking at they way they are built
 
Hi I have been using a RAPT controller to control my mash and boil elements with great success. I have just purchased a RAPT thermometer with the intention of pairing it via Blue Tooth however the Blue tooth option doesn’t appear in settings and I can’t find the answer in the instruction manual. I should add that I can’t get WiFi in my brew shed hence the device isn’t registered. Any help would be much appreciated
 
Hi I have been using a RAPT controller to control my mash and boil elements with great success. I have just purchased a RAPT thermometer with the intention of pairing it via Blue Tooth however the Blue tooth option doesn’t appear in settings and I can’t find the answer in the instruction manual. I should add that I can’t get WiFi in my brew shed hence the device isn’t registered. Any help would be much appreciated
Please ignore the above post I have now registered the Controller and Blue tooth is now working 👍🏼

However the controller is now making a clicking sound which sounds to me like a relay. Is this normal ?
I have three controllers and this is the only one that clicks !
 
Please ignore the above post I have now registered the Controller and Blue tooth is now working 👍🏼

However the controller is now making a clicking sound which sounds to me like a relay. Is this normal ?
I have three controllers and this is the only one that clicks !
I would guess connecting to wifi has updated the firmware which has enabled bluetooth and the pid settings. The pid setting could be causing the relay to click on/off more often than it used to making it more audible.
 
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