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@KegLand-com-au

How come when buying the Tri-Conical pressure kit, it comes out nearly $10 cheaper (when accounting for the spunding kit costing $39.99, it's $19 atm, not too sure if this is an error) when buying all the components separately then in the kit itself. It sort of defeats the purpose of the kit.

if it works cheaper then buy

you want kegland to charge more wait until they charge more
 
@MrFrosty - If you calculate the priming sugar amount properly, you should be fine carbing in the 8L polymer kegs. I actually can't find their PSI or Bar rating online, but it's certainly enough for bottle conditioning at normal levels.

If you ferment under pressure, I very much suggest dissolving the sugar in boiling water and then chilling before adding it to the bottles in order to help cut down on the foaming.

Swapping the head shouldn't be too much of a problem as long as you did not over-carb the kegs. But realize you will lose some carbonation and introduce some oxygen in the process. But you could probably remedy that with a bit of CO2 and purging of the headspace.

@KegLand-com-au - Any guess when the 8L polymer kegs will be available in the US?
 
@Good Truble

Thanks for that, according to the printing on the side of the kegs max pressure is 58psi. I don't think I would really want to go testing it though!

No pressure fermentation yet, just using a bucket style but I'll keep it in mind for later on.
 
Wow, that's much higher than I was expecting.

Oh, and on your last point - it's probably fine to store beer at room temp for a week or so (while carbing or uncarbed), but storing in a cool or refrigerated place after that will help preserve it longer (especially lighter beers). -and I don't really see an advantage to not carbing while you store it, but maybe I'm overlooking something.
 
if it works cheaper then buy

you want kegland to charge more wait until they charge more

The point i was trying to make, although i didn't make myself clear was that the main splash image says "free blowtie spunding valve" even though the price of the bundle is what the unit prices of everything is added up.

The "free" part could be a bit misleading.
 
The point i was trying to make, although i didn't make myself clear was that the main splash image says "free blowtie spunding valve" even though the price of the bundle is what the unit prices of everything is added up.

The "free" part could be a bit misleading.
Are you sure you are accounting for all the bits and pieces that normally come with a kit?
 
Are you sure you are accounting for all the bits and pieces that normally come with a kit?

The price of the bundle is more than the total cost of all the components are if bought separately.

Tri-Conical - $165
Blowtie - $18.05 (normally $39.95)
plastic carb cap x4 @ $3.95 - $15.8
Mesh filter, dip tube and float - $10.94

Total = $209.80 or $231.69 with the blowtie at full price, still well below $238 they are selling for atm.
 
Wow, that's much higher than I was expecting.

Oh, and on your last point - it's probably fine to store beer at room temp for a week or so (while carbing or uncarbed), but storing in a cool or refrigerated place after that will help preserve it longer (especially lighter beers). -and I don't really see an advantage to not carbing while you store it, but maybe I'm overlooking something.
Yes you forgot oxygen in the beer will send it off quicker than a prawn on a hit day. Carbonating the beer will get the oxygen out and keep it longer.
 
Does the old Brewzilla neoprene cover fit the Gen 4?

It's not a perfit fit but it does work. The new tap is lower on the boiler so you have a larger gap. The recirculation arm is more or less the same and so is the diameter and height of the boiler. We are still going to make a new Gen 4 specific neoprene jacket though and this should be available in 6 weeks or so.
 
i emailed kegland a week or so ago and they said they fit the gen 4

Yes they can fit on
No worries. Is there a reason you opted for the single phase industrial plug as opposed to a 32A GPO?
SGPO1_32_32amp_single_power_point_XL787_32WE.jpg

Yes it's also possible to use that 32amp domestic three phase socket too. It's hard to know how many customers will be purchasing the 100L BrewZilla for domestic use and how many will be purchasing for commercial use at this stage but eventually we will standardise to one type of wiring and then customers wanting other power can switch it over themselves. The re-wiring from single phase to three phase is not very complicated and we will probably have to supply the cable kit.

Just out of interest how many of you guys would prefer Single Phase 32amp wiring vs Three phase 10amp wiring for the BrewZilla 100L. We are really interested to hear what your preference are.
 
@KegLand-com-au

I'm pretty new to homebrewing, and I wanted to make sure this wasn't a bad idea. I recently picked up a few of the 8l PET kegs/bottles and 1 tapping head, and I just wanted to get a sanity check on what I was planning to use them for and avoid any bottle bombs or anything. I was thinking of splitting a single batch between the 3, force carbing one as normal, and doing a 2nd fermentation with priming sugar with the other 2. Would it be alright to treat them as regular bottles and fill to within a few cm from the top, or would it be better to fill to 7l or so, squeeze the bottle so there's as little head space as possible and then cap, leaving stacks of room for the bottles to pressurise? I would then just swap the tapping head on and serve as a regular keg.

Also a more general question, if I rack to the bottles without force carbing or a 2nd fermentation and store at room temperature is that okay or best to avoid?

Anyone else feel free to chime in too, just thought this would be the best place for the question. :)

Yes absolutely no problem doing this if you want to. If you use too much priming sugars you can still blow them up but its still way safer than an exploding glass bottle. In our destructive testing the PCO38 kegs will rupture at about 8-10 bar.

I personally would not bother with the priming sugars and just use a CO2 gas cylinder as it's faster and means you dont have a whole lot of yeast to deal with in the bottom of the keg. If you leave a bit of head space this will greatly increase the speed of force carbonation with the CO2 cylinder so I would do this. As you have suggested before scrwing the tapping head down you can squeeze the bottle sized to evacuate that small amount of oxygen and this will work in your favour too.
 
It would be good to get the double batch unit to fit the rapt fermentation fridge with accessories attached including the hop bong. I have my fingers crossed.

We will see how we go after we release the single batch FermZilla SS and then once this launch is out of the way we will look at the 100L version.
 
@KegLand-com-au

How come when buying the Tri-Conical pressure kit, it comes out nearly $10 cheaper (when accounting for the spunding kit costing $39.99, it's $19 atm, not too sure if this is an error) when buying all the components separately then in the kit itself. It sort of defeats the purpose of the kit.

I am not sure that is correct. The Tri-conical Pressure kit includes:
KL25898
KL10788 x 2
KL10788-Yellow x 2
KL14076
KL16957
KL18012
KL15042
KL20756
I think all these individual parts come to more than $200 so when you get the kit you get a small discount
 
Hi @KegLand-com-au do you know the size of this o-ring for the drafto tapping head for your growlers? Aside from the fact the dip tube doesn't reach the bottom as it was cut too short from factory and the mfl barb seeming to wear into the plastic of the lid, the o-ring now seems to have perished.

I can resolve the other issues easily enough but would be great to find out the size and if the o-ring can be replaced. As it stands I can't use the attachment and it's been sitting around out of use since the one time I did get to test it out.

View attachment 121922

I think it's best to contact our customer service team with you order number and we can sort out a replacement for you. We have some compatible o-rings that are used in other seal kits that we sell. I have heard that one of our customers used a keg poppet o-ring which is sligthly larger but worked for him and these are probably the most common part.
 
@Good Truble

Thanks for that, according to the printing on the side of the kegs max pressure is 58psi. I don't think I would really want to go testing it though!

No pressure fermentation yet, just using a bucket style but I'll keep it in mind for later on.

Yes the 58psi is the max working pressure. We have a minimum safety factor of 2 for these vessels.
 
@KegLand-com-au

I'm pretty new to homebrewing, and I wanted to make sure this wasn't a bad idea. I recently picked up a few of the 8l PET kegs/bottles and 1 tapping head, and I just wanted to get a sanity check on what I was planning to use them for and avoid any bottle bombs or anything. I was thinking of splitting a single batch between the 3, force carbing one as normal, and doing a 2nd fermentation with priming sugar with the other 2. Would it be alright to treat them as regular bottles and fill to within a few cm from the top, or would it be better to fill to 7l or so, squeeze the bottle so there's as little head space as possible and then cap, leaving stacks of room for the bottles to pressurise? I would then just swap the tapping head on and serve as a regular keg.

Also a more general question, if I rack to the bottles without force carbing or a 2nd fermentation and store at room temperature is that okay or best to avoid?

Anyone else feel free to chime in too, just thought this would be the best place for the question. :)
If you naturally carbonate to 2.5 volumes then let the keg get to >=26.7*C then you'll exceed the 35psi rating (edit) only prv is rated to 35psi, change that and it'll work, the head is rated to 65psi I think
 
I am not sure that is correct. The Tri-conical Pressure kit includes:
KL25898
KL10788 x 2
KL10788-Yellow x 2
KL14076
KL16957
KL18012
KL15042
KL20756
I think all these individual parts come to more than $200 so when you get the kit you get a small discount

I just found the pricing a bit odd, it seems to be rectified now.

It was even the same price with the previous gen fermzilla conical.
 
Yes it's also possible to use that 32amp domestic three phase socket too. It's hard to know how many customers will be purchasing the 100L BrewZilla for domestic use and how many will be purchasing for commercial use at this stage but eventually we will standardise to one type of wiring and then customers wanting other power can switch it over themselves. The re-wiring from single phase to three phase is not very complicated and we will probably have to supply the cable kit.

Just out of interest how many of you guys would prefer Single Phase 32amp wiring vs Three phase 10amp wiring for the BrewZilla 100L. We are really interested to hear what your preference are.
Commercial customers would have no problems getting a rewire to suit, while a homebrewer is likely to need a dedicated outlet installed either way. More are likely to have single phase than three phase.

Ultimately your sales data will tell you which option suits the majority of your customers.
 

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