KegLand Questions and Answers

[Beats_MC]

I run a pair of these beats, no problems at all and I have 1 mtr lines also. Maybe yours are faulty? Have you pulled them part?

No I have not. Stupid question - how do they come apart? I can see the MFL can be removed by the hex nut. But how does the rest come apart?

 

[razz]

https://www.kegland.com.au/flow-control-ball-lock-disconnect-flow-restrictor.html
Failing that, you may need to give the shop a call or post your question on the Kegland FB page.

 

[Engibeer]

I've got perlick FC taps which live in the hot garage as well.

My solution is a cup of crushed ice in the freezer and if I haven't poured for a while and the taps are hot is to immerse the tap in the ice to let if cool down for a few seconds. Makes a big difference on the first pour. Once the taps are cold you can pour as usual, but meant I wasn't pouring foam while the taps cooled down.

JD

Awesome idea, might adopt this method.

 

[DazGore]

If your serving pressure is within usual beer ranges then the line length is not the problem here.

Unless the line diameter were mis-marked, I'd be looking at the variables of temperature or the agitation introduced by your 1/2"TC and reducer. If you're confident there are no temperature changes across the line (e.g. if the tap or line are warmer) then maybe try switching out the 1/2"TC with a 1/4" outlet.

I'm sorry, this is a bit off topic, but, I lengthened my beer line to 4.5m of 4mm beer line, and it is pouring perfectly. I am dumbfounded as its way more than is the norm. I run my tubing outside of a fridge, but it is all glycol chilled with no warm spots etc..
My brite tanks read 12.5 psi, my inline regulator is at 1 bar (14.8?), the wetting/cracking pressure of my carbonation stone is 2-2.5 psi, so all good there. Beer temp is 3 degrees.
So for me, in my system, I needed longer beer line. Weird, but as I said in earlier posts, it could be due to my setup, going from a 1.5" TC fitting to 1/4" mfl ... Anyway, very happy. And the FC taps will let me alter any variations that come my way.

Sorry for off topic.

Thank you Kegland for all the great products, at competitive prices. You guys are the best.

 

[Talnoy]

This question was originally posted on a Facebook group for FermZilla users (https://www.facebook.com/groups/580441819141323/), but I post it again on this forum to be directly in touch with KegLand.

When I attach a grey disconnect to one of the SS carbonation caps from the FermZilla pressure kit, it starts to leak gas. In more detail: If I press the disconnect all the way down to the seat of of the carb cap, it remains fairly sealed, but when I let go of the disconnect, it springs back a few millimetres and then I can hear gas hiss. A lubed O-ring makes no difference, but a black disconnect appear to seal better.

If I do the same on the gas post of a corny keg, it doesn't spring back and I got perfect seal.

It seams like it is not only me, citing text on carbonation caps from William's Brewing: "This has a hybrid ball lock post that will accept beer and gas lines. A tradeoff of this design means when you use a grey ball lock gas fitting to charge your bottle, the grey fitting will leak if you leave it on. This is designed to quickly charge with gas and then remove the gas ball lock fitting, it is not designed to have a gas line attached for any length of time" (https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Stainless-Carbonation-Cleaning-Cap-P3609.aspx)

As all spunding valve assemblies I've seen comes with a grey disconnect and the spunding valve is permanently attached to the FermZilla during pressurised fermentation, it should be leak proof, especially during cold crash, when I use the spunding valve gauge to verify that I never risk having under pressure in the FZ.

Are grey disconnects supposed to seal well on your SS carbonation caps?
Have you ever considered mount a true corny gas post on the FZ lid?

 

[Tricky Dicky]

I read on a Facebook Brewzilla forum that the 35L has an enhanced version after the 3.1 apparently the step function timer only starts when the target temperature has been reached is this correct?

 

[pauly]

Are grey disconnects supposed to seal well on your SS carbonation caps?

One of my grey disconnects definitely does not seal well on the SS caps or the plastic ones, but I have other grey ones that work fine and also my SS disconnects work fine for both. Personally I have chalked it up to varying quality on them and I figure since they only cost $2 and $3 I can live with it (although I can see why it would be very annoying if you don't have spares).

I have just had a beer sitting there at 25psi for four days last week (with plastic caps and a cheap grey disconnect) with no drop in pressure. I always saw pressure drops with the SS caps although I am almost certain this was the seal between the CC and the FZ, not the disconnect.

I had a heap of trouble with the SS caps and the FZ, KL have suggested in the thread to use the plastic ones instead. I think they should be sending out replacement plastic caps to anyone who bought the pressure kits with the SS ones, as they just don't seem to work properly.

 

[arkique]

tldr; My StellarSan caps broke and I printed new ones.

I know this is no strictly the right thread but I thought I would add my 2c here as I lost both my StellarSan caps today ( RIP plastic caps) and its also likely the first place someone will come to complain and look for a solution.

Most likely I am also going to get flamed for this so let me start by saying this was a proof of concept and I may change to a more suitable material before I post the stl. If you want to the stl let me know and I will supply what I got. Caveat Emptor as there are no guarantees this will keep on working. For now I will see if they split like the orginals, if they are still fine after a week I will update my post with a link to the file.

Anyways are is a pic. Printed real rough and quick as a proof of concept. They seemed to seal without the paper discs but I migrated them across anyways.

 

[Nullnvoid]

tldr; My StellarSan caps broke and I printed new ones.

I know this is no strictly the right thread but I thought I would add my 2c here as I lost both my StellarSan caps today ( RIP plastic caps) and its also likely the first place someone will come to complain and look for a solution.

Most likely I am also going to get flamed for this so let me start by saying this was a proof of concept and I may change to a more suitable material before I post the stl. If you want to the stl let me know and I will supply what I got. Caveat Emptor as there are no guarantees this will keep on working. For now I will see if they split like the orginals, if they are still fine after a week I will update my post with a link to the file.

Anyways are is a pic. Printed real rough and quick as a proof of concept. They seemed to seal without the paper discs but I migrated them across anyways.

Normal PET bottle caps fit as well.

 

[Warwick]

So with the carbonation cap, are you recommending to run 4mm ID line directly from a mains tap to the quick disconnect (obviously with a inline regulator)? Can you recommend common attachments to achieve this from the tap end?

Bump

 

[Talnoy]

One of my grey disconnects definitely does not seal well on the SS caps or the plastic ones, but I have other grey ones that work fine

I must try this and check if disconnects behave differently. Thanks a lot!

 

[arkique]

Normal PET bottle caps fit as well.

Yeah true but I do not have any of those kicking about. Been trying to reduce my plastic usage as much as possible.

 

[Josh Dodd]

Bump

I’m planning to hook it up to an outlet line from an existing water filtration system. It’s already 4mm line so easy enough. If you want to run it directly off the mains water supply, the best idea wouldn’t be to connect to the actual tap itself but to go under the sink to where the metal hose from the tap connects to your mains water line. The mains tap is usually a standard plumbing fitting. Pick up an adapter from Bunnings that adds an extra line out:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/aquaport-1-4-filtered-water-mains-connection-piece_p5090164
A 4mm ID/8mm OD line should fit in a 1/4” fitting I think?

 

[dkril]

@KegLand-com-au I was just looking at the instruction PDF for the soda water lid thing. On page 4, the pre-chill keg is shown as having 2 black/liquid ball lock disconnects. Does this mean you have to/should change the gas post to a liquid post? Or is the water in disconnect supposed to be a grey/gas ball lock disconnect?

Or just hammer the damn thing on like a very merry homebrewer at 2am?

 

[Kebabman]

Regarding flow control tap improvements that I would make.
The flow control should be able to completely stop the flow, my taps still allow beer to dribble out and so I need another inline ball valve as a security measure as my taps do not have a very positive "return".
Could you redesign the f/c tap so that it could incorporate a return spring so that the handle returns properly, another reason that I need an on/off ball valve as my taps do not have a very positive "return".
The flow is too restricted when on maximum flow. There needs to be less restriction inside the tap as occasionally I have bits of dry hop pellet particles that clog the tap when first starting a keg, if the inside was better designed and there was less restriction the particles would flow into the glass.

 

[Boxcar]

Hi,

I have some of the gen 1 flow control disconnects. They pour very, very slowly even when fully opened.
Is this something that will be improved in the gen 2 model?

As far as Kegland have explained, this is one of the main (if not THE main) reasons for the Gen2. Gen1 has restriction even when fully opened. Gen2 supposed to be more comparable to standard disconnect flow when open.

 

[Boxcar]

Just interested to see if you have been happy with this design in general.

You guys can keep tweaking the Intertap/Ventmatic type design, but IMO, the market needs more attention to rotary designs. Inherently less complicated, less parts, potentially easier to tear down and clean. Flow control components completely separated from valve components. Trupour's ROTOtap is the business, IMO.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

You guys can keep tweaking the Intertap/Ventmatic type design, but IMO, the market needs more attention to rotary designs. Inherently less complicated, less parts, potentially easier to tear down and clean. Flow control components completely separated from valve components. Trupour's ROTOtap is the business, IMO.

These taps work reliably however i dont think they are a particularly good design in our opinion. The issues being:
1. They are fairly heavy and have a lot of thermal mass meaning more beer has to flow through them to cool the tap down and more first pour foaming.
2. They have a cavity inside the tap that is not particularly sanitary.
3. I dont think they have less parts at all. They have more parts as far as I am aware.

Yes we are working on a new generation of forward sealing taps at the moment. They will be released soon. To be honest the Intertap taps are already difficult to improve on as they are already a really good tap. With that said we have been spending some time with optimisation over the past couple of years and the next generation of beer taps will probably be the last designs that we ever manufacture as we have really done everything we can to improve the designs and I don't think we will be able to optimise the design any further. These new taps will be sold under the new brand name "nukatap".

 

[KegLand-com-au]

A suggestion for your next gen FC disconnects. Put a mark of some sort on the adjuster (on the top or on the side) so it's easier to tell how far it's been turned when adjusting it.

That's a fair point. I will bring this up with the others. To move from fully open to fully closed you need to rotate the knob a couple of complete revolutions so graduations on the knob would be a bit tricky but I will talk to the others about this and see if we can find a solution.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

I'd be surprised if you could get a signal outside of a completely sealed keg. For iSpindel (which is WiFi not Bluetooth like the tilt) some users have had success by electrically isolating the lid (as would be the case with a Corney) looking at the kegmenters might be a bit more difficult to isolate the lid but shouldn't be impossible.

Other than getting the repeater and putting it really close to the unit I am not aware of any other way to get the signal out of this unit.