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sixfignig

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Unfortunately missed out on the Series X Plus (been hanging out for one since day dot).

Site currently has no ETA, can you provide any estimate on when the next shipment is likely to be coming in?
 

MetalRooster

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Unfortunately missed out on the Series X Plus (been hanging out for one since day dot).

Site currently has no ETA, can you provide any estimate on when the next shipment is likely to be coming in?
I got an email yesterday "incoming stock alert" on these, but it didn't actually give any indication on ETA. So a not very useful email.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Would that shelf be adjustable? I.e. would I be able to move it up and down to suit what I wanted to store in the fridge at any given time? Or would I have to buy extra shelves depending whether I currently had tall bottles (wine or longnecks) in the fridge?
We have a couple different options here. The shelf will be made from plastic dipped wire like most fridge shelves. If we make an adjustable design we will sacrifice some rigidity but you would be able to adjust the shelf height. Alternatively if we make the shelves solid blocks that stock on top of each other they will be more stable and have less flex. So it's a bit of a trade off I guess. Would you prefer to have a more stable shelve that you purchase specific sizes or prefer to have an adjustable shelf that is less rigid?
 

BlueLine

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We are in the process of making multi-layer preforms soon but these will be for plastic kegs not fermenters. Once we start using the multi-layer preforms they will exhibit close to 0 oxygen transmission and comparable to glass containers.
I'm really looking forward to the plastic kegs coming out. Will they have corny lid or commercial openings?
 

KegLand-com-au

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I'm really looking forward to the plastic kegs coming out. Will they have corny lid or commercial openings?
In the beginning we will have a 38mm threaded neck that will take a new type of tapping head with ball lock posts. This will be the best option for home brewers. We will also have some other ways to interface with the keg but they are probably not that interesting for you guys as the other options are not designed to for a home brewing application.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Any idea when Clarity Ferm is coming back in stock?

And is it possible to stock something like this version: White Labs Clarity Ferm
Yes that is a fair point. We can buy the bulk enzyme but I was not aware that White Labs sold in this type of no-labelled packaging for customers to package down. Do you think that this stuff in the link above is actually from White Labs or is it another similar enzyme?

We have had delays on product from White Labs but hopefully if we get the stock clear through customs we should have this Clarity Ferm in White Labs packaging available very soon. Unfortuantely the delays have been unpredictable due to Covid but it should be back in stock any moment.
 

Nullnvoid

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This seems quite strange. The Fill O Meter should be far more accurate than this and certainly we have got much better results than this in our testing. We do have means of calibration but I don't think this is the issue. I would check your flow rate first. If you have your water running too fast you could have an issue that the flow sensor cannot read that fast. The flow sensor we use has a flow speed range of 1-30L/min so my first guess is that you might be exceeding the 30l/min.

Other areas of error are hose expansion or hose volume. For instance if you have a very long hose you will have some elasticity in the hose that will hold 1-2 litres of water when under pressure. For instance if you have a valve at the end of the hose then the hose is already pressurised then the pressurised hose may dispense as much as 1-2 litres. In addition to this if you have a hose that contains a volume that will drain out this can also give you some error. For instance once the solenoid valve turns off and if you have liquid in the hose that can slowly drain out this can cause some error. With that said these errors caused by the hose are way less than the 20L issue you have so I really think you are probably exceeding the flow speed of the sensor.
Thanks for the reply. I did some tests today. Flow is less than 30l per minute. I tried it at maximum tap open and it was about 23-24l per minute. I also tried it at 4l per minute and it was still out considerably by the same margin

I have videos which I can send to you. I weighed it all on a set of scales to as accurately as I could get water weights.

At 20l the scales said 12.565l.
At 2l the scales said 1.6l
At 1l the scales said 0.7l


Did I get a dodgy flow meter perhaps?
 

fdsaasdf

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All I can suggest is just making sure you try and purchase them as soon as they go back online.
This is a joke. I have stopped re-registering for the back in stock notifications as they are never in stock. A few weeks ago I received the email sent one minute before receipt, and by the time the website loads they are gone.

Either people have bots that are hooking your website, or you don't send the emails out all at once, or you're misleading us as to stock actually being available.
 

djebel

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We have a couple different options here. The shelf will be made from plastic dipped wire like most fridge shelves. If we make an adjustable design we will sacrifice some rigidity but you would be able to adjust the shelf height. Alternatively if we make the shelves solid blocks that stock on top of each other they will be more stable and have less flex. So it's a bit of a trade off I guess. Would you prefer to have a more stable shelve that you purchase specific sizes or prefer to have an adjustable shelf that is less rigid?
I'd prefer the adjustable design, so I only need to have one I can adjust to suit my needs at the time, rather than 2-3 large rigid frames that I have to store when not in use (which would be most of the time for whatever configuration(s) I only use occasionally.

Another thought is that if it is not a single rigid unit, it could be made suitable for flat pack (some assembly required). Less warehouse space for you guys, less postage for customers who can't do pickup, and less storage space for me if I take it out for any reason. I'm sure your boffins can come up with a suitable design.
 

dkril

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We have a couple different options here. The shelf will be made from plastic dipped wire like most fridge shelves. If we make an adjustable design we will sacrifice some rigidity but you would be able to adjust the shelf height. Alternatively if we make the shelves solid blocks that stock on top of each other they will be more stable and have less flex. So it's a bit of a trade off I guess. Would you prefer to have a more stable shelve that you purchase specific sizes or prefer to have an adjustable shelf that is less rigid?
Adjustable shelf would be my preference.
 

Bourkie

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Hey @KegLand-com-au - Do you have any ETA for the new Brewzilla? No pressure and understand it's likely to change, but just curious as I'm sticking to FWK and K&K until the connectable Brewzilla comes out.
 

MontPel

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@KegLand-com-au - in the attempt to chase an efficient and quality method of oxygen free dry hopping, would you be able to make a new 4" pressure lid for the kegmenter? I envisage it to be as follows:

View attachment 119753

The larger port would ideally be a 2" TC (a 1.5" TC may also work if dimensions are limited). A larger port here is desired to minimise hops getting stuck. The two smaller ports would be the male threaded ports for the gas and liquid disconnect posts (as are currently on your kegmenter 4" pressure lid). A PRV port would also need to be added between the two smaller threaded ports for safety.

Attached to the 2" port would then be a 2" TC butterfly valve (here), a 2" sight glass (here), then a 2" TC cap with a gas post and PRV for venting and safety (here).

The butterfly valve would be closed for most or all of fermentation. When ready to dry hop the sight glass would be added to the valve, filled with hops, then capped on top. The cap would be connected to a gas line and pressurised/vented several times to purge O2. Then the butterfly valve can be opened and hops drop in.

I have seen a similar set up on much more expensive fermenters (conicals and the like) and have wondered for some time how this arrangement could work on a kegmenter. I believe this is the best way but it all relies on the 4" TC adaptor lid to 2" TC port with posts.

Thoughts?
OK so seeing as a commercial solution to this may be a while off (if ever), I'm going to look at making a prototype out of commercially available parts.
It seems the best way is to get a 4" TC x 2" TC offset end cap reducer (here, shipping is a pain so would love if there was a more local option), then drill some clearance holes for a gas and liquid post bulkhead (here & here). The sticking point for me now is a PRV in the lid but can't seem to find a suitable bulkhead/weldless PRV. @KegLand-com-au do you have any PRV parts that could be used in this setup?
 

Ballaratguy

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OK so seeing as a commercial solution to this may be a while off (if ever), I'm going to look at making a prototype out of commercially available parts.
It seems the best way is to get a 4" TC x 2" TC offset end cap reducer (here, shipping is a pain so would love if there was a more local option), then drill some clearance holes for a gas and liquid post bulkhead (here & here). The sticking point for me now is a PRV in the lid but can't seem to find a suitable bulkhead/weldless PRV. @KegLand-com-au do you have any PRV parts that could be used in this setup?
Why not just leave the tap, sight glass with the gas liquid PRV cap on all the time? Just close the valve when you want to load the hops, reconnect the top and purge the sight glass then open the valve. The only modification that you would need to the cap on the fermenter would be a liquid post to connect a floating dip tube
 

riichiee

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Is the accordian style tubing that connects the Kegerator fan to the font available to buy? (so that you can cool down the taps)

I ended up throwing mine out -- some previously spilled beer got a bit of mould on it, I assumed I could just replace it.
 

MontPel

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Why not just leave the tap, sight glass with the gas liquid PRV cap on all the time? Just close the valve when you want to load the hops, reconnect the top and purge the sight glass then open the valve. The only modification that you would need to the cap on the fermenter would be a liquid post to connect a floating dip tube
Unfortunately I don’t have enough height in my fermentation chamber for the sight glass to be on all the time. I also don’t like the idea of having a valve between the PRV and the vessel. Although it seems unlikely it is very possible for me to forget to open the butterfly valve and lead to a dangerous pressure.
 

RRising

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Is the accordian style tubing that connects the Kegerator fan to the font available to buy? (so that you can cool down the taps)

I ended up throwing mine out -- some previously spilled beer got a bit of mould on it, I assumed I could just replace it.
Couldn't you have just washed and disinfected it?

I would go out and do some kerbside recycling and find an old vacuum cleaner, wash the hose and go from there.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Thanks for the reply. I did some tests today. Flow is less than 30l per minute. I tried it at maximum tap open and it was about 23-24l per minute. I also tried it at 4l per minute and it was still out considerably by the same margin

I have videos which I can send to you. I weighed it all on a set of scales to as accurately as I could get water weights.

At 20l the scales said 12.565l.
At 2l the scales said 1.6l
At 1l the scales said 0.7l


Did I get a dodgy flow meter perhaps?
It looks more like you have a calibration issue. Have you checked the default k-factor that is in the flow meter manual here:

https://www.kegland.com.au/media/pdf/KL14694%20-%20Fill-O-Meter%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf

By default we have these normally set at 9.4. Can you please refer to the above instruction manual and let us know what your k-factor is. Perhaps your unit may have got changed at some stage but it sounds a lot like this is the issue from what you are saying.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Adjustable shelf would be my preference.
Ok we will look at both designs and make up some prototypes. I think we should have a minimum load rating as 10kg per shelf. So based on 10kg per shelf we will try to make an adjustable shelf and if we cannot make it adjustable and rigid enough then we will go with specific shelf heights. Either way we will find a solution for you guys.
 

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