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No corrosion at all, I tried three different sets of batteries, the one shown on the screenshot will have been the one that was in the original package or the second set.
 
Goalpost fonts are difficult to improve insulation as the shape is difficult to work with and often the access to the middle part of the font is poor.

Series X plus owner here. I dislike my dual triple tap fonts and have put up with a wonky middle tap for years because I can never properly tighten the middle shanks. Absolute pain in the backside! I have been eying off the 6 tap TT bar font but it's hard to justify for $230... Is it considerably easier to install all the taps on the 6 TT bar font? What about adding insulation? Any tips?
 
Is there a way to completely disassemble the NukaTap Mini for cleaning purposes?
 
CO2 Regulator diaphragm kit? Why can't I just buy a replacement black diaphragm membrane? There is nothing wrong with the seat, sintered filter, gaskets or metal diaphragm hardware. My diaphragm has a split and it is the only part needing replacement. How do I know this? Because I've successfully swapped just the diaphragm itself out of another regulator.
 
I only want the diaphragm. Just the large flat black reinforced rubber bit. Everything else is not required.
 
Series X plus owner here. I dislike my dual triple tap fonts and have put up with a wonky middle tap for years because I can never properly tighten the middle shanks. Absolute pain in the backside! I have been eying off the 6 tap TT bar font but it's hard to justify for $230... Is it considerably easier to install all the taps on the 6 TT bar font? What about adding insulation? Any tips?
https://kegland.com.au/products/27mm-compact-ring-spanner
We give the free 7 in 1 tap spanner tool but to be honest this one above is loads easier to use especially in tight areas like these fonts.
 
CO2 Regulator diaphragm kit? Why can't I just buy a replacement black diaphragm membrane? There is nothing wrong with the seat, sintered filter, gaskets or metal diaphragm hardware. My diaphragm has a split and it is the only part needing replacement. How do I know this? Because I've successfully swapped just the diaphragm itself out of another regulator.

Once we get down to these very slow moving parts the cost of the parts is negligeable but we mostly are charging for the warehouse space and the fact that it's taking up a shelf location. If we had the diaphragm sold separately it would end up being a similar cost to this whole kit for that reason as we will then have to allocate two bin locations.
https://kegland.com.au/products/mk4-regulator-replacement-diaphragm-and-seat-assembly
 
Hi KL,

Do you currently have plans for stainless steel mesh filter tubes as add-ons to the hop bong?

It would be great to have these three sizes (300, 600, 1000 micron) available, and the holder of course:

https://www.brewtools.com/filters/7...all-lock-for-post-fermentation-filtration-etc

I'd actually like to run this system in reverse, to make a PELLET hop randal, to dry hop beer as it is being served. That way I can experiment with various hops and find out my preferred combinations.
 

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Hi KL,

Do you currently have plans for stainless steel mesh filter tubes as add-ons to the hop bong?

It would be great to have these three sizes (300, 600, 1000 micron) available, and the holder of course:

https://www.brewtools.com/filters/7...all-lock-for-post-fermentation-filtration-etc

I'd actually like to run this system in reverse, to make a PELLET hop randal, to dry hop beer as it is being served. That way I can experiment with various hops and find out my preferred combinations.
It's probably just as easy to use the current polyphoenix gin basket in the same way:
https://kegland.com.au/products/polyphoenix-3-inch-tc-botanicals-basket

The polyphoenix sections have a lip at the top that seals against the TC seal so they are probably a better shape for this.

If this is something a lot of customers want we can also look at different filter mesh requirements
 
Do you have guidelines on the weights your Stainless 35L Brewzilla lids can sustain? You use terms like “medium” or “heavy”, or “heavier”, do you have quantified values for an acceptable central weight?

The options I have found are:
35L Distillation Lid with (47mm Hole)
35L Distillation Lid with 2 Inch TC
35L Distillation Lid with 3 Inch TC
BrewZilla 35L Pro Sight Glass Distillation

We have avoided the use of a specific load rating as the loads that are applied due to distilling in particular are difficult to quantify when the loads are not applied evenly to the lid. For example still is weighted to one side or hoses are pulling on one direction etc.

What I can say is that the Pro Sight Glass Lid is thick enough that I can stand on the lid and I am 80kg. The thinner lids with 47mm Hole can't handle this without bending.
 
Hi guys, I just received my hop bong. The inside of the butterfly valve is quite greasy. Can I wash that out or is the lube needed for sealing?
 

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Hi guys, I just received my hop bong. The inside of the butterfly valve is quite greasy. Can I wash that out or is the lube needed for sealing?
perfectly fine to wash that grease off mate, and re-sanitize for next use
 
It's probably just as easy to use the current polyphoenix gin basket in the same way:
https://kegland.com.au/products/polyphoenix-3-inch-tc-botanicals-basket

The polyphoenix sections have a lip at the top that seals against the TC seal so they are probably a better shape for this.

If this is something a lot of customers want we can also look at different filter mesh requirements
That's amazing, thanks!

Does that basket happen to fit into the Fermzilla 600ml 3 inch TC collection container?
https://kegland.com.au/products/fer...i-clover-kit?_pos=5&_psq=3+inch+&_ss=e&_v=1.0
 
I am a bit reluctant to ask questions about the Alcoengine Reflux still here, with this being a mainly beer-oriented platform. I have come into possession of one (new), and I've used it now twice. I do have issues with how it runs, and I need to ask a few questions. I am not a novice and there is nothing wrong with how I've run it, as per instructions. What is the best option to ask, remain discreet and not wanting to publicly trash what appears to be a good piece of kit.
 
I am a bit reluctant to ask questions about the Alcoengine Reflux still here, with this being a mainly beer-oriented platform. I have come into possession of one (new), and I've used it now twice. I do have issues with how it runs, and I need to ask a few questions. I am not a novice and there is nothing wrong with how I've run it, as per instructions. What is the best option to ask, remain discreet and not wanting to publicly trash what appears to be a good piece of kit.
Do a google search for Australian Distilling sites you will find one run by a home Distilling equipment supplier. Lots of very informed info inside. Keep away from Facebook groups
 
I am a bit reluctant to ask questions about the Alcoengine Reflux still here, with this being a mainly beer-oriented platform. I have come into possession of one (new), and I've used it now twice. I do have issues with how it runs, and I need to ask a few questions. I am not a novice and there is nothing wrong with how I've run it, as per instructions. What is the best option to ask, remain discreet and not wanting to publicly trash what appears to be a good piece of kit.

That is fine. Feel free to ask any questions and we will do what we can to resolve the issues.

The more detail you give us such as photos or video the easiest it is for us to troubleshoot. Most issues are easily resolved once we actually know the source of the issue.
 
That is fine. Feel free to ask any questions and we will do what we can to resolve the issues.

The more detail you give us such as photos or video the easiest it is for us to troubleshoot. Most issues are easily resolved once we actually know the source of the issue.
Well, in a nutshell the problem is 10% loss of product during my first 2 runs of pre-stripped charge. 17 litres @ 35% and 20 litres @ 40% and both of them have produced, and left in the boiler, 10% less than the total pre-start ABV. I can provide actual runs data if required. The ABVs of remaining boiler contents were calculated by using additions of it to known, high concentrations and measuring what volume was required to bring to lower target concentrations.

There is visible vapour loss around the product stream between the end of the output tube and the collection vessel, but it doesn't look sufficient to account for 10% losses. There is no apparent loss from the still attachment itself, and it is being run as per instructions and with more than adequate water for cooling with the water supply being 17'C and running at well over the required 8 litres / minute.

Also, I'm only achieving 88% using the 1.0 mm orifice. I t may be running a bit fast at 10.5 minutes for 250 ml instead of 12 minutes.

The still is nearly new, used only once or twice before I received it, but was obtained with no packing so I have packed it with SS scrubbers, which should be adequate, but possibly not. How much packing material is usually in the column?

Edit:
First run numbers.
Boiler Charge: 17000 @ 35% = 5950 @ 100%

Collected: 4325 @ 100%
(100 @ 90% = 90, 2000 @ 88% = 1760, 2000 @ 86% = 1720, 1250 @ 60.4 = 755)

Boiler remnant: 11000 @ ,10% (9.32) = 1026

Alcohol Loss: 5950 - 4325 -1026 = 600 @ 100%
Loss by volume: 17000 - 5350 - 11000 = 650 ml

Percentage Loss Alcohol: 600 / 5950 * 100 = 10.08%
Percentage loss by volume: 650 / 17000 * 100 = 3.082%

ABV of lost product: 600 / 650 * 100 = 92.3%. (Percentage suggests loss occurs at high production stage)

The second run numbers are similar with approximately 800 ml lost out of 8000.
 
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Well, in a nutshell the problem is 10% loss of product during my first 2 runs of pre-stripped charge. 17 litres @ 35% and 20 litres @ 40% and both of them have produced, and left in the boiler, 10% less than the total pre-start ABV. I can provide actual runs data if required. The ABVs of remaining boiler contents were calculated by using additions of it to known, high concentrations and measuring what volume was required to bring to lower target concentrations.

There is visible vapour loss around the product stream between the end of the output tube and the collection vessel, but it doesn't look sufficient to account for 10% losses. There is no apparent loss from the still attachment itself, and it is being run as per instructions and with more than adequate water for cooling with the water supply being 17'C and running at well over the required 8 litres / minute.

Also, I'm only achieving 88% using the 1.0 mm orifice. I t may be running a bit fast at 10.5 minutes for 250 ml instead of 12 minutes.

The still is nearly new, used only once or twice before I received it, but was obtained with no packing so I have packed it with SS scrubbers, which should be adequate, but possibly not. How much packing material is usually in the column?

Edit:
First run numbers.
Boiler Charge: 17000 @ 35% = 5950 @ 100%

Collected: 4325 @ 100%
(100 @ 90% = 90, 2000 @ 88% = 1760, 2000 @ 86% = 1720, 1250 @ 60.4 = 755)

Boiler remnant: 11000 @ ,10% (9.32) = 1026

Alcohol Loss: 5950 - 4325 -1026 = 600 @ 100%
Loss by volume: 17000 - 5350 - 11000 = 650 ml

Percentage Loss Alcohol: 600 / 5950 * 100 = 10.08%
Percentage loss by volume: 650 / 17000 * 100 = 3.082%

ABV of lost product: 600 / 650 * 100 = 92.3%. (Percentage suggests loss occurs at high production stage)

The second run numbers are similar with approximately 800 ml lost out of 8000.

The 10% loss unfortunately is pretty normal and this is part of the process of re-distilling product. If you want to produce a really good neutral spirit you need to take into account a certain degree of losses.

Evaporative losses
This design of still has the spirit exit the still fairly hot. Fore more expensive models like the polyphoenix design you have a liebig condenser on the output that means the spirit exits at much colder temperatures and reduces the evaporative losses on the output or in the output container.

You should also ensure your coolant water is flowing fast enough and ideally doesnt exceed 35C. As temperatures climb above 35C your losses will also increase out the top of the still as your coolant water is getting too hot. 40C would be the absolute recommended max.

88% using the 1.0 mm orifice
The easy solution is just to swap out the smaller 0.6mm orifice restrictor. This will immediate reduce your collection speed and increase the purity. That's the reason why we include it in the kit. This process is described in a bit more detail in the manual here:
https://kegland.com.au/cdn/shop/fil...ions_a11ba9d6-d973-4938-bda5-4d3057c404f2.pdf
 
OK. Thanks. The coolant water is fine and if 10% loss is to be expected I guess I'll just have to deal with it. My own builds have Liebig condensers, so I've never experienced this magnitude of loss before.
 
OK. Thanks. The coolant water is fine and if 10% loss is to be expected I guess I'll just have to deal with it. My own builds have Liebig condensers, so I've never experienced this magnitude of loss before.

When you have high evaporative losses one other benefit is that it also drives off sulfur faster too so the flip side is your 10% loss will result in a reduction of sulfur as this will blow off faster than the ethanol evaporates.

Don't get me wrong I am still saying that losses are bad but just keep that in mind. A really good wash should really be free of excessive sulfur in the first place in my opinion.
 
Sorry the Benchy Bench top kegerator has taken us longer than we expected to get finished. We have been doing several other upgrades to the cosmetic look of it to make it look a bit fancy on the kitchen bench like installing color changing LED lights and illumination around the tap shank etc. These other upgrades have been a bit time consuming but I think the final result will be worth waiting for.

I would say this product is now delayed until May 2025.
Any update on the bench top kegerators?
 
@KegLand-com-au any chance of an update or new version of the semi-auto cannular splash guard? It doesn't really stop the splashes. Spent 30mins wiping down my fridges, benches etc from all the side splashing that happens during a canning run. If the splash guard was longer in all directions I think it could prevent all the splashes/flicks of beer.

Also might be more tricky, but a guard to prevent beer going up into the roller mechanism area as it's quite painful wiping all that out as well. I get that might be harder to solve given the moving parts during seaming operations etc.
 
Do a google search for Australian Distilling sites you will find one run by a home Distilling equipment supplier. Lots of very informed info inside. Keep away from Facebook groups
The problem with that forum is that the advice is not independent and your discussion may get shut down if you talk about other suppliers and equipment.
There is an independent forum but it is a bit quiet. australianhomedistiller dot com dot au . Or homedistiller dot org has enough distillers from down under but you do have to put up with the yanks a bit.
 
The RAPT Spunding valve is really quite close. All the injection molds for this product are finished and we were about to start manufacturing but we found a slightly more accurate pressure transducer that also was easier to assembly in the housing and we decided to change this but that required tweaks to the PCB and this has set us back slightly. We think this Digital Regulator and Spunding Valve will be available for sale in Australia in March this year. Sorry about the delay. The good news is that the accuracy will be about +/- 1% of the gauge range so it’s quite accurate compared with other options.
The SS FermZilla is probably also March too as we have found some other ways to make the design more efficient to produce and also reduce the RRP on this too.
@KegLand-com-au Any update on this? Are they still relatively close or has there been any major setbacks?
 
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