How "inaccurate" is inaccurate? i know you aren't going to get the precision from a sub $50 meter whether its a Beverage Doctor, a clone or chinesium crap from Aliexpress.It's hard to get an accurate PH reading of tap water without a very good PH meter. The cheap ones don't give a very accurate reading. Mine shows 5.6 for tap water which isn't possible. Not sure how soft SA water is but the softer and less minerals the less accurate the reading, is my understanding.
My tap water averages 7.6 but shows 5.something because it has very low minerality. Same reason you can't get a reading from distilled water etcHow "inaccurate" is inaccurate? i know you aren't going to get the precision from a sub $50 meter whether its a Beverage Doctor, a clone or chinesium crap from Aliexpress.
Hey you are right, i was playing around with Brewfathers tools and was going from the 7.5 to 6.8 PH in the source water profile and it didn't affect the recipe PH level.The pH of the mash ends up dominated by the buffering effects of various things in it anyway, the source water pH has a very small effect. Pull up your water calculator of choice, pop in a recipe, and fiddle with just the water pH. You'll see what I mean.
We do get a lot of customers dipping them directly into the mash when hot and they still seem to handle this level of abuse. With that said the supplier that supplies the probes to us specifically say to not immerse the probe into hot liquid as it reduces the life of the probe. I have dipped mine into hot wort maybe 20 times so far and it still seems to be ok.I've got your digital pH meter and I've been stuffing around cooling the mash down to measure the pH to try and protect the probe / calibration etc.
Really it's mainly to protect the calibration - and I don't know if this is a legitimate concern?
I know I really shouldn't have to do this as it has ATC.
A replacement probe is only $12.
Am I better off just dipping it straight into the mash until it's stuffed? It would be a lot quicker and less stuffing about on brew day.
If it the probe only lasted a couple of years because of this I'd be more than happy to purchase a replacement, just because of the convenience.
Yes I would totally recommend Brewfather. For the majority of beers no need to adjust ph but for the dark beers or really light beers I think it's really a very good idea.Hey you are right, i was playing around with Brewfathers tools and was going from the 7.5 to 6.8 PH in the source water profile and it didn't affect the recipe PH level.
I was looking at this yesterday and it seems to me the most thorough way to purge the hops would be to daisy-chain a second tee onto the side in the photo there. That way you can have a keg line into the container with the hops from one carb cap and a purge outlet on the other cap to push the air out.Has anyone had any experience with the fermzilla dry hopping ball valve? Any tips on setup or how to best purge hops before dry hopping?
Yes but - the pH of the water plays (or can play) a big role in the mash pH.ph of your water doesn't really matter much. What matters is the pH of your mash.
i dare say getting up around that mark your going to look at 3 phase power and i reckon ya gunna have to be very serious with ya brewing to warrent equipment that takes 3 phase100L brewzilla is interesting. What kind of power outlet would be required to run it?
Yes that is absolutely right. You fill the bottle with CO2 then loosen one of the fittings and this will let some gas out. If you do this a few times you will be able to purge almost all the O2 out of the hops.Assuming you could also just loosen the hops bottle to purge with gas connected to side t-piece?