BrewLizard
Well-Known Member
For sure, I get that there can be variations in water profile (though minerality and RA matter, as opposed to water pH). Was just curious if they’ve ever been a significant enough swing that it throws your mash pH out.
Source water pH varies, you'll see a range of pH on the water reports - min/max/average.
It's hard to get an accurate PH reading of tap water without a very good PH meter. The cheap ones don't give a very accurate reading. Mine shows 5.6 for tap water which isn't possible. Not sure how soft SA water is but the softer and less minerals the less accurate the reading, is my understanding.
My tap water averages 7.6 but shows 5.something because it has very low minerality. Same reason you can't get a reading from distilled water etcHow "inaccurate" is inaccurate? i know you aren't going to get the precision from a sub $50 meter whether its a Beverage Doctor, a clone or chinesium crap from Aliexpress.
The pH of the mash ends up dominated by the buffering effects of various things in it anyway, the source water pH has a very small effect. Pull up your water calculator of choice, pop in a recipe, and fiddle with just the water pH. You'll see what I mean.
I've got your digital pH meter and I've been stuffing around cooling the mash down to measure the pH to try and protect the probe / calibration etc.
Really it's mainly to protect the calibration - and I don't know if this is a legitimate concern?
I know I really shouldn't have to do this as it has ATC.
A replacement probe is only $12.
Am I better off just dipping it straight into the mash until it's stuffed? It would be a lot quicker and less stuffing about on brew day.
If it the probe only lasted a couple of years because of this I'd be more than happy to purchase a replacement, just because of the convenience.
Cheers,
Hey you are right, i was playing around with Brewfathers tools and was going from the 7.5 to 6.8 PH in the source water profile and it didn't affect the recipe PH level.
I was looking at this yesterday and it seems to me the most thorough way to purge the hops would be to daisy-chain a second tee onto the side in the photo there. That way you can have a keg line into the container with the hops from one carb cap and a purge outlet on the other cap to push the air out.Has anyone had any experience with the fermzilla dry hopping ball valve? Any tips on setup or how to best purge hops before dry hopping?
Yes but - the pH of the water plays (or can play) a big role in the mash pH.ph of your water doesn't really matter much. What matters is the pH of your mash.
100L brewzilla is interesting. What kind of power outlet would be required to run it?
Assuming you could also just loosen the hops bottle to purge with gas connected to side t-piece?
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