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Bourkie

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Hey @KegLand-com-au, thanks for the webinar last week. I really, really enjoyed watching it.

Just a question on the BrewZilla 4.0 - do you think it may be available by Christmas this year, or likely not until next year? I'm also pretty keen to check out some of the other new toys, like your version of the digital hydro.
 

RRising

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@KegLand-com-au

Something to consider, would it be feasible to add a spudger tool to your Fermzilla kits? its good that it fits really tightly but is a pain to get off and i don't want to go sticking a butter knife in and nick the o-ring.

Also any ideas when you are going to be restocking Iodophor?
 

KegLand-com-au

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I have unfortunately only had negative experiences with duotights so far and gone back to barb fittings with no issues. Is kegland considering a barbed option for their regulators or a barb insert?
Can you please let us know what the issue is that you had with the duotights? We generally get very good feedback from people using the duotights. From our experience the most likely cause of leaks is:


1. The line is not completely inserted into the fitting. You have to push with significant force to make sure the line is pushed all the way so both o-rings are being used. For the 8mm duotight fittings for instance they should push into the fitting 15mm so both o-rings are sealing. If you are unsure what you can mark the beer line with a permanent marker then ensure the hose is pushed in up to this permanent marker line.

2. Ensure you have a clean cut. If you have difficulties with this then get this too:
Tube Cutter - Pipe Cutter - 2 in 1 for EVABarrier, PEX, HDPE, Vinyl Tubing

3. Line specification
Make sure you are using Evabarrier tubing or another tubing with good tolerance on the diameter. If the diameter is out by more than 0.15mm this will reduce the reliability of the connection.

Also with regards to the barbs we do sell these barbs separately if you really want to use the barb on our regulators:
Swivel Nut & Barb for MFL Thread Disconnect
 

KegLand-com-au

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Hey @KegLand-com-au, thanks for the webinar last week. I really, really enjoyed watching it.

Just a question on the BrewZilla 4.0 - do you think it may be available by Christmas this year, or likely not until next year? I'm also pretty keen to check out some of the other new toys, like your version of the digital hydro.
Thanks for the feedback on the Webinar. I did not think many Australian people had seen this. It was originally produced for our European customers and it was done live at 2am in Australia. The guys at olbrygging.no have now uploaded this to youtube if any of you guys want to watch it:
(video broke sponsor rules)
It's a long video but it covers some cool new stuff that is in the pipeline.

The BrewZilla Gen 4 definitely will not be finished until next year. Sorry about this. We still have more work to do on this but we think it's quite possible this is finished early 2021. It's now on the top of our priority list to get completed so this is getting pushed along quite fast.
 
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hawkaboy

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Can you please let us know what the issue is that you had with the duotights? We generally get very good feedback from people using the duotights. From our experience the most likely cause of leaks is:


1. The line is not completely inserted into the fitting. You have to push with significant force to make sure the line is pushed all the way so both o-rings are being used. For the 8mm duotight fittings for instance they should push into the fitting 15mm so both o-rings are sealing. If you are unsure what you can mark the beer line with a permanent marker then ensure the hose is pushed in up to this permanent marker line.

2. Ensure you have a clean cut. If you have difficulties with this then get this too:
Tube Cutter - Pipe Cutter - 2 in 1 for EVABarrier, PEX, HDPE, Vinyl Tubing

3. Line specification
Make sure you are using Evabarrier tubing or another tubing with good tolerance on the diameter. If the diameter is out by more than 0.15mm this will reduce the reliability of the connection.

Also with regards to the barbs we do sell these barbs separately if you really want to use the barb on our regulators:
Swivel Nut & Barb for MFL Thread Disconnect
I bought 4 regs and evabarrier line. Made sure pushed in all the way. Thought it might be a cutting problem so i bought the cutting tool from kegland and replaced all the airlines. Made sure all lines pushed in. All regs dropped from 12 psi to 6 psi overnight. Even bought lubri film even though not neccessary as a last resort
 

KegLand-com-au

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@KegLand-com-au

Something to consider, would it be feasible to add a spudger tool to your Fermzilla kits? its good that it fits really tightly but is a pain to get off and i don't want to go sticking a butter knife in and nick the o-ring.

Also any ideas when you are going to be restocking Iodophor?
We are looking to change the Iodophor. At the moment the package is too small. Would you mind if we sold this in a 500ml bottle like the Stellarsan? We would be keen to use the same bottle size and type but the price will obviously be more.

To remove the lid of the FermZilla the easy way is to lever the lid off like this:


So even if you have dried up beer on the lid or something quite sticky this method works quite well.
 

KegLand-com-au

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I bought 4 regs and evabarrier line. Made sure pushed in all the way. Thought it might be a cutting problem so i bought the cutting tool from kegland and replaced all the airlines. Made sure all lines pushed in. All regs dropped from 12 psi to 6 psi overnight. Even bought lubri film even though not neccessary as a last resort
Did you have kegs attached with liquid in them. If this is the case the next step would be immerse the fittings in water or cover in foam so you can determine the spot with the issue.

We did get one instance a while ago now where an o-ring was missing in the duotight fitting. We rarely see that happen but I wonder if this is the same issue.
 

ozdevil

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We are looking to change the Iodophor. At the moment the package is too small. Would you mind if we sold this in a 500ml bottle like the Stellarsan? We would be keen to use the same bottle size and type but the price will obviously be more.

To remove the lid of the FermZilla the easy way is to lever the lid off like this:


So even if you have dried up beer on the lid or something quite sticky this method works quite well.
hmmmm i dont like this idea to be honest

placing the screw driver under the plastic Carb carp and placing pressure on the lid ring seal ya putting pressure on the threads which could cause stripping and results in leaky seals if Something goes terribly wrong, just my thoughts

i could see a turn on on the lid ring so that it losens and then applying some gas to pop the inner section out to work , which would put less pressure on the threads.

as i said just my thoughts
 

KegLand-com-au

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hmmmm i dont like this idea to be honest

placing the screw driver under the plastic Carb carp and placing pressure on the lid ring seal ya putting pressure on the threads which could cause stripping and results in leaky seals if Something goes terribly wrong, just my thoughts

i could see a turn on on the lid ring so that it losens and then applying some gas to pop the inner section out to work , which would put less pressure on the threads.

as i said just my thoughts
The lids have been made from glass reinforced plastic that is extremely strong. The design requirement was that the lid was made to hold 1,130kg force pushing upwards with a 1.5 safety factor. As a result it's really not possible to easily strip the threads with a screw driver.

Some customers do pop the lid off with some pressure but this method is just a bit uncontrolled and it can pop out with a bit of force and if you have accidentally got the whole ring undone it might make the whole lid pop off and hit you in the face.

A third option is that you can replace the EPDM o-ring with a silicone o-ring. Silicone has much worse oxygen transmission properties but it's softer and the lid will come out more easily. So if you were prepared to accept a bit more oxygen transmission then this is just another possibility for you.
 

fdsaasdf

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The lids have been made from glass reinforced plastic that is extremely strong. The design requirement was that the lid was made to hold 1,130kg force pushing upwards with a 1.5 safety factor. As a result it's really not possible to easily strip the threads with a screw driver.

Some customers do pop the lid off with some pressure but this method is just a bit uncontrolled and it can pop out with a bit of force and if you have accidentally got the whole ring undone it might make the whole lid pop off and hit you in the face.

A third option is that you can replace the EPDM o-ring with a silicone o-ring. Silicone has much worse oxygen transmission properties but it's softer and the lid will come out more easily. So if you were prepared to accept a bit more oxygen transmission then this is just another possibility for you.
I'm never going to buy a plastic fermenter, but if I did I'd be incredulous to say the least with this suggestion. Levering plastic fittings like that is inviting trouble.

The obvious solution here seems to be either manufacturing the lid with a proper reinforced lug/channel to use a long straight lever like a screwdriver; or making a dedicated spanner like those used for cube lids.
 

ozdevil

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The lids have been made from glass reinforced plastic that is extremely strong. The design requirement was that the lid was made to hold 1,130kg force pushing upwards with a 1.5 safety factor. As a result it's really not possible to easily strip the threads with a screw driver.

Some customers do pop the lid off with some pressure but this method is just a bit uncontrolled and it can pop out with a bit of force and if you have accidentally got the whole ring undone it might make the whole lid pop off and hit you in the face.

A third option is that you can replace the EPDM o-ring with a silicone o-ring. Silicone has much worse oxygen transmission properties but it's softer and the lid will come out more easily. So if you were prepared to accept a bit more oxygen transmission then this is just another possibility for you.
even if the fermenter wont be stripped of the thread you cant say the carb cap would be strong enough to handle that and can cuase cross threading in the carb cap just the same..

i have no issues with pooping it out with pressure it just takes common sensejust enough to let it pop out and its all good..

i just see terrible issues with the screw driver method
 

Vic

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I have been using the screw driver method on 3 Fermzillars since they were released with no issues. Plastic carb cap is plenty strong enough. I suggest using a screw driver a wide blade. A chain saw spanner is ideal as it can also be used to tighten and loosen the carb caps.
 

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I've got your digital pH meter and I've been stuffing around cooling the mash down to measure the pH to try and protect the probe / calibration etc.

Really it's mainly to protect the calibration - and I don't know if this is a legitimate concern?

I know I really shouldn't have to do this as it has ATC.

A replacement probe is only $12.

Am I better off just dipping it straight into the mash until it's stuffed? It would be a lot quicker and less stuffing about on brew day.

If it the probe only lasted a couple of years because of this I'd be more than happy to purchase a replacement, just because of the convenience.

Cheers,
 

kadmium

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I've got your digital pH meter and I've been stuffing around cooling the mash down to measure the pH to try and protect the probe / calibration etc.

Really it's mainly to protect the calibration - and I don't know if this is a legitimate concern?

I know I really shouldn't have to do this as it has ATC.

A replacement probe is only $12.

Am I better off just dipping it straight into the mash until it's stuffed? It would be a lot quicker and less stuffing about on brew day.

If it the probe only lasted a couple of years because of this I'd be more than happy to purchase a replacement, just because of the convenience.

Cheers,
A well looked after quality probe lasts under a year, so what do you think is going to happen to a cheap Chinese $12 probe being put into 65 degree liquid?

Also, the ATC is up to 50c so regardless you need to cool it down from mash temps.

I have one, and it works fine but if you buy cheap you need to baby it.

Also, the temp correction is less reliable the higher the difference as its using a calculation on millivoltage to work out the true reading. If you go to the trouble of measuring the pH then I would cool it to 20c for consistency and accuracy.

Also, it needs to be calibrated before each use to get a true reading.
 

Engibeer

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A well look after quality probe lasts under a year, so what do you think is going to happen to a cheap Chinese $12 probe being put into 65 degree liquid?

Also, the ATC is up to 50c so regardless you need to cool it down from mash temps.

I have one, and it works fine but if you buy cheap you need to baby it.
No point in rhetorical questions, this is literally the question I asked. Will it last, and how long?
 

Engibeer

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Anyway what I do to speed this up is have a pyrex dish stored in the freezer.

I put a small amount of wort in the dish and the thermal mass of the dish helps cool it down quickly.
 

BrewLizard

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Do you find it’s particularly necessary to test pH often?

I bought one due to having homebrewer’s reckless spending syndrome, and I’ve verified the pH is on target (close to beersmith’s calculation) for all my beer styles. Now it just sits in the cupboard. Didn’t test latest brew, but efficiency was 94%, so I assume pH was fine.
 

Engibeer

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Do you find it’s particularly necessary to test pH often?

I bought one due to having homebrewer’s reckless spending syndrome, and I’ve verified the pH is on target (close to beersmith’s calculation) for all my beer styles. Now it just sits in the cupboard. Didn’t test latest brew, but efficiency was 94%, so I assume pH was fine.
Source water pH varies, you'll see a range of pH on the water reports - min/max/average.
 

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