KegLand Questions and Answers

[onemorecell]

We have not used the Lupomax but have you had a chance to try the Cryo hops. It sounds like the benefits are very similar just by reading about it. We have been stocking a small selection of Cryo hops for a while and this is great for high hop aroma beers in particular as you can dry hop with it.
This Sabro hop is awesome especially on beers that are a little acidic as the acidity seems to also accentuate the stone fruit flavours.

The Cryo hops have been selling out fast so we get what we can when we can but they are not always available.

If someone else who has used Lupomax can comment on this that would be great. Any of you guys used this?

It only came out 2 weeks ago in US I think so, probably not anyone that's used it here
It's supposed to be better than Cryo - but that's from the mouth of the manufacturer so who knows!

 

[KegLand-com-au]

It only came out 2 weeks ago in US I think so, probably not anyone that's used it here
It's supposed to be better than Cryo - but that's from the mouth of the manufacturer so who knows!

No worries. We will do some research on the subject. If we do find that it's either better value or better quality then we will stock it but we will have to do more research before we decide to bring it in. IF any of you guys get it before we do please let us know what you think.

 

[fdsaasdf]

The PCO 1881 thread is much closer to 3/4 thread. So what we could do is make a PCO ball valve that is PCO1881 and on the other side it's 3/4". Do you think that would suit you?

A plastic or SS PCO 1881 -> 1/2" would be handy

 

[theSeekerr]

A plastic or SS PCO 1881 -> 1/2" would be handy

Kegland do stock a stainless 3/4" to 1/2" reducing bushing, so if they built a PCO ball valve with 3/4" BSP it wouldn't be too hard to adapt to the common 1/2" brewery fittings.

 

[fdsaasdf]

Kegland do stock a stainless 3/4" to 1/2" reducing bushing, so if they built a PCO ball valve with 3/4" BSP it wouldn't be too hard to adapt to the common 1/2" brewery fittings.

Thanks, I already have bushes but would my need is best met if I can adapt directly between 1/2" and the PCO 1881 thread without needing another adaptor.

 

[theSeekerr]

Thanks, I already have bushes but would my need is best met if I can adapt directly between 1/2" and the PCO 1881 thread without needing another adaptor.

Fair, but I can think of reasons they'd want to keep the bore open (for example, if you wanted to use it as a hop dosing port, that would be marginally more likely to succeed at 3/4" than at 1/2") and they're very unlikely to make this part in two sizes

 

[Meddo]

Hi @KegLand-com-au, will you be offering a version of the "Duotight Inline Regulator with Integrated Gauge" that comes with the digital gauge as standard? Also any chance of a version with 3/8" Duotight rather than 5/16" (would prefer not to use adapters as that makes the unit much less compact)?

Thanks

Bump @KegLand-com-au?

Bump again please @KegLand-com-au?

 

[Meddo]

Hey @KegLand-com-au, any chance of knocking up a female soft drink thread to male 5/8" adapter part? All your current products and future products like the rapt fridge seem to be designed to utilise carb caps but everything in my brewery is k-Lok. I would love to be able to put k-Lok fittings on my Fermzillas and may consider the rapt fridge down the track too.

Thanks

And an on-topic bump again please @KegLand-com-au?

 

[sbowler]

The PCO 1881 thread is much closer to 3/4 thread. So what we could do is make a PCO ball valve that is PCO1881 and on the other side it's 3/4". Do you think that would suit you?

That would certainly work - but the ball valve is probably a bit more than i was thinking.

The initial use case i was thinking was to be able to connect a pump hose via camlock to the right angled PET adapters (my fridge is quite tight with the 55L fermzilla in it). So an adapter (even if it's to a 3/4" that can then be stepped down to a 1/2" or have a 3/4" BSP tri clamp ferrule attached) would be ideal, but if the ball valve is the best way of achieving it, then I'm ok with that too.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Fair, but I can think of reasons they'd want to keep the bore open (for example, if you wanted to use it as a hop dosing port, that would be marginally more likely to succeed at 3/4" than at 1/2") and they're very unlikely to make this part in two sizes

Yes that is exactly correct. From our experience the 1/2inch ball valve is too narrow to allow hop pellets to flow through. The minimum size that we can get hop pellets to flow through is the 3/4" full bore ball valve. For this reason we think the valve will be more useful for a wider range of applications if we use the 3/4 ball valve casting and then people who want the 1/2 thread can use the reducing bush.

I must say this business has required a continual increase in the number of fittings we need to stock and make which is a bit annoying but I think at least this part will be quite useful for a range of different applications where soda bottles can be used for many different applications.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Bump again please @KegLand-com-au?

At this stage we are unlikely to make another inline regulator in the same format with 3/8 push in fitting. The 3/8 tubing is far less common and I am sure you can appreciate that the tooling cost for these injection moulds is quite high.

We have already spent many hundreds of thousands on tooling in the last 18months alone and for a relatively small home brew business this is a large proportion of our turnover. So we have to carefully rationalise which products we invest in so we can continue to bring out new products that are needed by home brewers the most.

We probably will just sell the digital mini gauge as a separate part that you upgrade the standard inline regulator at this stage. They are quite easy to change over in only about 2 minutes. Also the cost of the standard gauge is quite low so for us to make another inline regulator with the digital mini gauge already fitted would not be much different in price when you purchase the two products separately.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

And an on-topic bump again please @KegLand-com-au?

We will consider this. It could be done with this part:
Stainless 1/2 to 5/8 fitting.

It would just require a couple more fittings but it would get the job done.

 

[Meddo]

At this stage we are unlikely to make another inline regulator in the same format with 3/8 push in fitting. The 3/8 tubing is far less common and I am sure you can appreciate that the tooling cost for these injection moulds is quite high.

We have already spent many hundreds of thousands on tooling in the last 18months alone and for a relatively small home brew business this is a large proportion of our turnover. So we have to carefully rationalise which products we invest in so we can continue to bring out new products that are needed by home brewers the most.

We probably will just sell the digital mini gauge as a separate part that you upgrade the standard inline regulator at this stage. They are quite easy to change over in only about 2 minutes. Also the cost of the standard gauge is quite low so for us to make another inline regulator with the digital mini gauge already fitted would not be much different in price when you purchase the two products separately.

No worries, thanks for the response. Certainly appreciate why you're saying no but figure it's worth asking the question. Knowing that it's not going to happen means that I can work around the existing product line - just one of those situations where you'd kick yourself if you built a system and then a few months later a more suitable component became available.

Cheers,

 

[Meddo]

We will consider this. It could be done with this part:
Stainless 1/2 to 5/8 fitting.

It would just require a couple more fittings but it would get the job done.

Sorry, I'm trying to adapt to the ports on the Fermzilla lids - so 5/8" to PCO 1881 or whatever the soda thread is.

 

[fdsaasdf]

Yes that is exactly correct. From our experience the 1/2inch ball valve is too narrow to allow hop pellets to flow through. The minimum size that we can get hop pellets to flow through is the 3/4" full bore ball valve. For this reason we think the valve will be more useful for a wider range of applications if we use the 3/4 ball valve casting and then people who want the 1/2 thread can use the reducing bush.

I must say this business has required a continual increase in the number of fittings we need to stock and make which is a bit annoying but I think at least this part will be quite useful for a range of different applications where soda bottles can be used for many different applications.

Fair, but I can think of reasons they'd want to keep the bore open (for example, if you wanted to use it as a hop dosing port, that would be marginally more likely to succeed at 3/4" than at 1/2") and they're very unlikely to make this part in two sizes

Thanks but my use case isn't related to anything that involves hops - just liquid.

I figure that it would be easy to make an expanding (to 3/4) and reducing (to 1/2) bush to have interconnectivity with the existing 1/2" products like the bucket blaster.

 

[Kezzbot]

Can you leave starsan the fermentasaurus for a period of time like a few weeks?

 

[Vic]

Can you leave starsan the fermentasaurus for a period of time like a few weeks?

I store Starsan in a Fermentasauris for months with no problems.

 

[Kezzbot]

Nice, thanks.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

I store Starsan in a Fermentasauris for months with no problems.

The only small issue you have here is that Stellarsan contains phosphoric acid and the phosphoric acid attacks nylon at a very slow rate. If the concentration of the phosphoric acid is high enough it will attack faster. In fact if you get Stellarsan in it's undiluted form it will completely dissolve the valve into liquid. So never pour the undiluted sanitiser into the Fermentasaurus. Make sure to add water first then sanitiser second or premix the sanitiser then pour in.

This was one of the things we improved with the FermZilla range and we no longer use any nylon injection moulded parts with the FermZilla. With the Fermentasaurus all hard parts were glass reinforced nylon. When you get this chemical attack to the nylon parts you will see the surface of the nylon parts will start to etch and become slightly white.

So yes it probably will be ok but if you can avoid it then it's better. If it's a FermZilla then you will not have to worry about it at all.

Secondly, as the nylon is reacting with the stellarsan you will also find that it will lose it's acidity over time. So after a few months the liquid sanitiser will cease to be effective. So you will end up with a liquid that is not acidic enough to be effective and therefore very open to infection. Having a liquid of neutral PH would be worse than leaving the tank dry.

 

[Vic]

If you are going to store Stellasan in it’s undiluted state then why not just store it in the bottle it came in?