KegLand Questions and Answers

[Jrrj]

The next round of duotight fittings will be:

8mm x FFL thread (for the MFL disconnects)
8mm x 5/8 thread female (to fit onto the keg couplers and tap shanks)
8mm x 1/2 thread male
8mm x 1/4 thread male

Then for the commercial installers we are working on a larger range of 3/8 fittings.

The check valves will be a while away. We probably will not make check valves until later on in the year.

The black ones that we currently have are ok but you really must be 100% sure you use good quality beer line where the tolerances of the OD are tightly controlled. The EVABarrier beer line that we have is very good in this respect so it will be good for these push in fittings. We already have the triple tap kegerators packed with this new line. We will also be packing the single and double tap kegreators with this new beer line in the near future.

Thanks for that, and the three tap is what I’m going to get. What about my second question on the kegerator shipping?

 

[Tricky Dicky]

How much does an empty 19L Kegland Keg weigh?

 

[fungrel]

Thanks for that. We really appreciate you sending the photos to us. Were the goods inside ok?

I will have a chat to the other guys in the warehouse about using different bags. We thought the bags that we had recently got in were ok but clearly they are just not strong enough.

Just got home and done a check on the invoice, i believe there is a gas disconnect missing. Invoice #100002830.
Should i send you an email about this as well, or will posting here be good enough?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Thanks for that, and the three tap is what I’m going to get. What about my second question on the kegerator shipping?

At the moment we are negotiating better rates for the kegerators. I think these new rates on kegerator shipping will decrease by about 20% in the next 2 weeks. To get a quote for shipping you must add the products to your cart on the website then when you go through checkout it will quote you the shipping cost before you pay.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Just got home and done a check on the invoice, i believe there is a gas disconnect missing. Invoice #100002830.
Should i send you an email about this as well, or will posting here be good enough?

I have just had a look at 100002830 and you did not have any gas disconnects on this order? It was for 2 different types of regulator, 16gram bulbs, and a 2.6kg cylinder. Perhaps this type of discussion is best kept to email so email us at [email protected]

If it's chat that is not of interest to other people on the forum it might be best to keep it to email.

 

[fungrel]

Apologies! Wrong invoice. Will email you.

 

[Paulos]

Any plans to get something similar to the below for your mini kegs?

Would be perfect for camping trips/ picnics / beach rather than trying to lug around a hard sided cooler.

Tried googling it and was surprised there wasn't more options online for a soft sided keg cooler that you could shove ice into to keep cold for a couple of days.

http://www.cool-brewing.com/store/#!/CoolBrewMini-2-5G-Keg-Cooler/p/64886501/category=0

 

[KegLand-com-au]

How much does an empty 19L Kegland Keg weigh?

If you are talking about one of these kegs:

https://www.kegland.com.au/19l-ball-lock-keg-brand-new-554.html

The keg weighs about 4.5kg and the cardboard box is about 500grams. So in total it's about 5kg.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Any plans to get something similar to the below for your mini kegs?

Would be perfect for camping trips/ picnics / beach rather than trying to lug around a hard sided cooler.

Tried googling it and was surprised there wasn't more options online for a soft sided keg cooler that you could shove ice into to keep cold for a couple of days.

http://www.cool-brewing.com/store/#!/CoolBrewMini-2-5G-Keg-Cooler/p/64886501/category=0

We did look at developing a rigid expanded PP cooler but the tooling cost was really high.

We will have another look at this and see if we can get a smaller cooler bag made up. We never really considered this in detail.

We do have neoprene jackets that will be sold with these which will be made from 7mm thick neoprene and will work with the mini kegs here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=mini+kegs

 

[Paulos]

We did look at developing a rigid expanded PP cooler but the tooling cost was really high.

We will have another look at this and see if we can get a smaller cooler bag made up. We never really considered this in detail.

We do have neoprene jackets that will be sold with these which will be made from 7mm thick neoprene and will work with the mini kegs here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=mini+kegs

Reckon all you'd need is a cylindrical version of the crappy(ish) soft sided coolers, rather than something rigid, but with a couple of mods - sleeves for ice packs, a zip at the top for a pluto gun and some straps to carry it.

Ultimately something to bridge the gap between neoprene and a hard sided cooler that won't take up too much room but will stay cool for a full day or more on camping trips.

Anywho, food for thought...

 

[KegLand-com-au]

No worries at all. The good thing as this will not require any expensive tooling. We will do some investigation into this. With a bit o luck we might have something done by start of next year.

 

[leonjw]

Hi Kegland

What is the Internal Dimension of your 100mm shanks? (https://www.kegland.com.au/100mm-stainless-long-shank-w-nut-tail-collar.html) I've notice my shanks with 5mm ID pour much better thank my other 8-10mm ID shanks using the same taps.

Just interested as i'm looking for shanks with smaller ID.

Cheers

Leon

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hi Kegland

What is the Internal Dimension of your 100mm shanks? (https://www.kegland.com.au/100mm-stainless-long-shank-w-nut-tail-collar.html) I've notice my shanks with 5mm ID pour much better thank my other 8-10mm ID shanks using the same taps.

Just interested as i'm looking for shanks with smaller ID.

Cheers

Leon

Hey Leon. I am glad you have raised this topic actually because many customers think that long shanks are all the same but there is a big differenc between a good quality shank and bad quality shank.

Our shanks are all the genuine Intertap shanks and you can see the drawings here:

http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Long Shank - 7506&7483.pdf

The ID of the back of the shank near the number 9 is 8mm. Generally you will not see 5mm as this is too small diameter to get a rigid drill bit to drill a very deep hole depth into a long piece of stainless steel rod.

In a poor quality shank the manufacturer will not use stainless rod. They will start with stainless tube with much thinner wall thickness. Then you will notice the bore all the way through the shank will be much larger (similar to the bore size at position 7, 8 in the PDF). The issue with this is the shank then holds 2-3 times more volume of liquid and you end up with heaps of warm beer pouring out into the first glass causing foaming causing the issue that you have been talking about.

If you get any long shank from us such as these ones:
https://www.kegland.com.au/150mm-in...nk-304-stainless-steel-w-nut-tail-collar.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/100mm-stainless-long-shank-w-nut-tail-collar.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/100mm-brass-long-shank-w-nut-tail-and-collar.html

So i can say that the quality of our shanks is second to none.

 

[leonjw]

Thanks for that, pretty sure my larger ID shanks are the threaded tube type..... but those are the ones i'm looking to replace.

I think my 5mm ID ones are actually chrome plated brass and that must be why they were able to bore a smaller ID. They do pour great though.

Cheers

 

[mashmaniac]

Hey Leon. I am glad you have raised this topic actually because many customers think that long shanks are all the same but there is a big differenc between a good quality shank and bad quality shank.

Our shanks are all the genuine Intertap shanks and you can see the drawings here:

http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Long Shank - 7506&7483.pdf

The ID of the back of the shank near the number 9 is 8mm. Generally you will not see 5mm as this is too small diameter to get a rigid drill bit to drill a very deep hole depth into a long piece of stainless steel rod.

In a poor quality shank the manufacturer will not use stainless rod. They will start with stainless tube with much thinner wall thickness. Then you will notice the bore all the way through the shank will be much larger (similar to the bore size at position 7, 8 in the PDF). The issue with this is the shank then holds 2-3 times more volume of liquid and you end up with heaps of warm beer pouring out into the first glass causing foaming causing the issue that you have been talking about.

If you get any long shank from us such as these ones:
https://www.kegland.com.au/150mm-in...nk-304-stainless-steel-w-nut-tail-collar.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/100mm-stainless-long-shank-w-nut-tail-collar.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/100mm-brass-long-shank-w-nut-tail-and-collar.html

So i can say that the quality of our shanks is second to none.

Further on this it is always best to have a decent length of shank inside your fridge/freezer with a fan blowing air directly cross the shanks, this way they act as a heat sink for your taps, and any beer in the shank is kept cooler.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Further on this it is always best to have a decent length of shank inside your fridge/freezer with a fan blowing air directly cross the shanks, this way they act as a heat sink for your taps, and any beer in the shank is kept cooler.

Would totally agree with this. If you dont mind the shank sticking into the fridge further this is a good idea.

 

[fdsaasdf]

Hi @KegLand-com-au - a question about your 29 and 58L fermenters - are there any concerns with the structural integrity of these vessels if crash chilling by >20degC?

Also, the 58L spec sheet doesn't appear to be a valid PDF file atm - the 29L downloads OK but not the 58. What are the exact dimensions of the vessel, including the thickness of the base and walls?

 

[mashmaniac]

Hi @KegLand-com-au - a question about your 29 and 58L fermenters - are there any concerns with the structural integrity of these vessels if crash chilling by >20degC?

Also, the 58L spec sheet doesn't appear to be a valid PDF file atm - the 29L downloads OK but not the 58. What are the exact dimensions of the vessel, including the thickness of the base and walls?

Ok I get where your going, but these are commercial style kegs that have been rejigged, The idea is you ferment @ what ever normal temp* @ say 10-30psi with a spunding valve (do some reading on pressure fermenting this ain't the thread for that), when you hit 10 points above fg or there abouts, remove the spunding and let it rise in pressure, then when you cold crash the excess co2 will be absorbed into the beer, carbonating the beer. If your going to ferment with a blow off and then seal, the vacuum created won't harm the vessel, but I would suggest hitting with 10psi of co2, if won't harm the brew.

* when fermenting under pressure temps can be higher due to the pressure inhibiting ester formation (have an ale on tap that saw 40c in summer drinking quite well. Note this is extreme I'd prefer 25c as a ceiling)

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hi @KegLand-com-au - a question about your 29 and 58L fermenters - are there any concerns with the structural integrity of these vessels if crash chilling by >20degC?

Also, the 58L spec sheet doesn't appear to be a valid PDF file atm - the 29L downloads OK but not the 58. What are the exact dimensions of the vessel, including the thickness of the base and walls?

These vessels have been made to the same specifications as the beer kegs. As a result they have been designed to be repeatedly dropped from 1.5 meters at full working pressure and volume onto steel plate. They have also been designed to take aggressive steam cleaning process up to 120C and can go to sub zero temeratures for the same reason. One of the great things about using a product that has been designed as a keg is that it meets quite a high bar with regarsd to robustness. So that is correct, absolutely no issue with hot filling and cold crashing and the kegs can handle considerable vacuum as well as pressure.

With the specification sheet here:

https://www.kegland.com.au/media/pdf/58L Kegmenter.pdf

This seems to work for me. Is this the link that you used?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Ok I get where your going, but these are commercial style kegs that have been rejigged, The idea is you ferment @ what ever normal temp* @ say 10-30psi with a spunding valve (do some reading on pressure fermenting this ain't the thread for that), when you hit 10 points above fg or there abouts, remove the spunding and let it rise in pressure, then when you cold crash the excess co2 will be absorbed into the beer, carbonating the beer. If your going to ferment with a blow off and then seal, the vacuum created won't harm the vessel, but I would suggest hitting with 10psi of co2, if won't harm the brew.

* when fermenting under pressure temps can be higher due to the pressure inhibiting ester formation (have an ale on tap that saw 40c in summer drinking quite well. Note this is extreme I'd prefer 25c as a ceiling)

We would totally agree with this too. Definitely no problem with having a vacuum in the keg but keeping the fermenter under some light pressure will also mean the chance of oxygen ingress will be less.