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KegLand-com-au

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Nah I'm actually just looking to offset two rows of taps on a mounting panel, having longer shanks on the top row taps fixed at the back of the shank rather than the front so they protrude past the lower row. I think I can make it work with the 100mm ones well enough but thought I'd ask just in case they were available to get more of a difference between the two rows.

This leads into the push-in tail question, your suggested solution is probably what I'll go with but I was hoping to have a metal fitting at the back of the shank to tighten against the board (lock nut on the front) rather than a plastic duotight fitting.

Re the nukatap FC I didn't mean to suggest it wasn't a real part, just whether it was a real ETA or just a placeholder date.

Thanks for the responses
With regards to the Nukatap FC I think the arrival date for this would be about Mid July. When the date gets closer we will update the website but this is our best guess at this stage.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Given that it's a 2" TC port, a racking arm would allow you to angle it to the bottom of the tank to draw off yeast / dump trub. Despite it not really being a conical fermenter, this still works very well in vessels like this. The floating ball pickup is good, but would be much easier to transfer 100L of beer into 2 x 50L kegs through a 2" TC port, and the racking arm would help draw from above the yeast cake and get every last drop out.

Also, any ETA on when you expect to be stocking them this year?
The first lot of these kegmenters will be arriving in June some time. Will have shipping date soon.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Any plans on making a 1.5" TC carbonation stone? I want to replace the ones on my SS Unitanks as they arnt great. Ideally something with a 4" stone and a thread on the end to fit a ball lock post.
Where are you using the carbonation stone? I think we have a much better carbonation solution in the pipeline but I would be interested to know more about how you use the stone and why you like using a stone first.
 

Stoichiometrist

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With regards to the Nukatap FC I think the arrival date for this would be about Mid July. When the date gets closer we will update the website but this is our best guess at this stage.
Just purchased a kegerator x and trying to decide on which taps (x4).
Why do you prefer Nukatap SS vs FC?
Is it the increased thermal mass? I think in previous designs you said there were problems with fc taps and the spring back mechanism.
Do you recommend fc disconnect at the keg - which are out of stock right now. (Can you give me a restock date please?)
Thanks
 

KegLand-com-au

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Just purchased a kegerator x and trying to decide on which taps (x4).
Why do you prefer Nukatap SS vs FC?
Is it the increased thermal mass? I think in previous designs you said there were problems with fc taps and the spring back mechanism.
Do you recommend fc disconnect at the keg - which are out of stock right now. (Can you give me a restock date please?)
Thanks
It comes down to personal preference. I really prefer the simplicity of standard Nukatap SS. A 1.5m length of 4mm Evabarrier tubing will normally give you enough flow resistance anyway. I do have one FC tap that I use for soda water but everything else is Nukatap SS.
 

Engibeer

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this 118L design now has 2 ports as requested:


So you will be able to use one for element and one for valve.

"The posts on the lid of the kegmenter are recesses below the level of the chimes so the kegmenters can be stacked. The interlocking chimes means the kegs can be safely stacked up to 4 high. "

Sounds dangerous with the 118L model? I'm guessing this is because it was written into the 58L document?

100kg+ @ 3-4m from the ground? The centre of gravity is a bit higher in the 118L vessel.
 

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@KegLand-com-au What's the trick to open up the lid on a Fermzilla All-rounder? I have lubed the o-ring and tried prying under the post but after a pressure ferment it doesn't want to go anywhere. The only way I can open it is by loosening the collar a touch and applying 15psi and it will literally blow open. Apart from wasting co2, I just feel really uneasy about this process and it scares the s*&# out of me every time.
 
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Ferg

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Where are you using the carbonation stone? I think we have a much better carbonation solution in the pipeline but I would be interested to know more about how you use the stone and why you like using a stone first.
+1 for the carb stone. Preferably with a bsp thread. I've previously put a ball valve and pneumatic air fitting on mine. 6" seems possibly too large for my 14g SS brewtech unitank so perhaps 4" would be perfect.
 

nickxb

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Where are you using the carbonation stone? I think we have a much better carbonation solution in the pipeline but I would be interested to know more about how you use the stone and why you like using a stone first.
In the unitank. I close up the blowoff with a few points to go so it starts carving. The use the carb stone to fully carb the beer before transfer.

I would prefer to stick with this method for now but want a longer stone.
 

fdsaasdf

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Where are you using the carbonation stone? I think we have a much better carbonation solution in the pipeline but I would be interested to know more about how you use the stone and why you like using a stone first.
Is it related to the continuous soda water lid?

Personally I don't use a carbonation stone and can't see the benefit for expense and overhead (even with my unitank).

While the continuous soda water works well, here's no chance I'd ever buy a carbonation stone for beer mounted in a keg lid, my kegs don't get opened until after they are empty.
 

Ferg

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In the unitank. I close up the blowoff with a few points to go so it starts carving. The use the carb stone to fully carb the beer before transfer.

I would prefer to stick with this method for now but want a longer stone.
I'm the same, cap it up and achieve roughly 50% carbonation. Use the stone to carb up the rest.

On the subject I wonder if kegland could design and build a cheap version of the zahm & nagel for checking carbonation? While its not necessary at the homebrew level a lot of the stuff we do could also fall into this category! I've been trying to get very accurate with everything i'm doing homebrew wise of late.
 

DazGore

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I'm the same, cap it up and achieve roughly 50% carbonation. Use the stone to carb up the rest.

On the subject I wonder if kegland could design and build a cheap version of the zahm & nagel for checking carbonation? While its not necessary at the homebrew level a lot of the stuff we do could also fall into this category! I've been trying to get very accurate with everything i'm doing homebrew wise of late.
+1
 

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When rebuilding an Intertap with new seals, which parts if any should have keg lube applied during assembly?
 

KegLand-com-au

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@KegLand-com-au What's the trick to open up the lid on a Fermzilla All-rounder? I have lubed the o-ring and tried prying under the post but after a pressure ferment it doesn't want to go anywhere. The only way I can open it is by loosening the collar a touch and applying 15psi and it will literally blow open. Apart from wasting co2, I just feel really uneasy about this process and it scares the s*&# out of me every time.
This is the way to open the lid easily. Loosen the ring and then use pretty much any screw driver, 7 in one too or flat object to lever the lid open like this:

 

Grmblz

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REALLY! Am I the only one that thinks this is a design flaw? I mean how hard is it to make an air tight lid? Maybe it's super hard and I'm missing something but having to lever it off with a screwdriver just seems like they got the design wrong, I don't have issues like this with my fermentasaurus so why does making the lid a bit bigger create this problem? V.2 should be interesting.
 

KegLand-com-au

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I'm the same, cap it up and achieve roughly 50% carbonation. Use the stone to carb up the rest.

On the subject I wonder if kegland could design and build a cheap version of the zahm & nagel for checking carbonation? While its not necessary at the homebrew level a lot of the stuff we do could also fall into this category! I've been trying to get very accurate with everything i'm doing homebrew wise of late.
I have a method to do this with a 100ml syringe but it's difficult to show without test or video so perhaps I will make a video on this at some stage. this is much cheaper than the Zahm and Nagel device and it will give you some indication of volumes of CO2 dissolved.

Our issue with carbonation stones that sit in the tanks for an extended period are that the stone has a high chance that yeast grows in the pores of the stone and it's really difficult to get out once the yeast is growing in the stone.


With that said if enough people really want the tri-clover to carbonation stone then we will make it for you guys but it's just a product that we would discourage leaving submersed in the beer/beverage for an extended period.
 

KegLand-com-au

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While still under pressure a bit or not?
With this method you do not need to use pressure. Just use pretty much anything you have around to lever the lid off. Probably safer if you just dont put it under pressure and use the force of the lever.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Hey @KegLand-com-au, are there any jackets available for the 30L All Rounder?

You can use one of these FermZilla Conical jackets:

The only issue is they are slightly bigger so you end up with some dead space in the jacket but they work OK.

I know it's a bit jump up in cost but you really cant just putting the whole thing into a fridge. We will have these in a few months but you could make your own with a second hand fridge and a temp controller:
 

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