No need to mate, my original #3943 "It needs two ports, one for the element and one for a drain valve, otherwise it's useless as a still boiler " it's easy to see a post and comment without going back to the beginning of the thread. fwiw in it's current form I don't rate it for either application.
Lol, This thing is literally 2 kegmenters welded together.. They have said in kegmenter videos that you have to drill a 32mm hole and throw in a 2.4kw element for a still boiler.. Same thing applies here.At last, a good use for it.
110L CPB Milk Can Boiler 790 plus shipping is alittle cheaper but you are right if your willing to diy its not a bad option, my issue would be how stable is it but knowing people that weld two kegs together I am sure its not that badLol, This thing is literally 2 kegmenters welded together.. They have said in kegmenter videos that you have to drill a 32mm hole and throw in a 2.4kw element for a still boiler.. Same thing applies here.
Find me a 100L or more (not a 50L keg that everyone uses, but 100L) boiler off the shelf that is even close to $329 + $70 (4.8kw worth of stick elements) + $13 (32mm punch). 5star's 100L milk can boiler start at $1700!!
Christ rode an ass btwChrist on a bike!
Pretty certain these kegmenters are 99.9% aimed at people fermenting and the boiler bit is tacked on as a bit of a value add sales pitch.
End of the day, you can put an element in it and boil stuff, they're not lying.
@Grmblz no ones forcing you to buy it so give it a rest hey?
You could always look into an Immersion circulator... You can pick them up for less than $150. All you need then is a normal 20L pot. It will keep that amount of sparge water at temps around 80c easy.