Grmblz
Well-Known Member
There was a comment a while back when we had the whole password screw up thing about them using some Indian company for their web development, and whilst cheap, you get what you pay for.
KegLand Questions and Answers
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rolyatwets
New Member
@fdsaasdf - I got the same thing too. Not a great advert for mitash software development either. There's clearly some very lax processes in place at Mitash to allow this to happen. If I was @KegLand-com-au I'd be really pissed of with their software supplier right now.
I am am also getting them. Seem to originate from France.
Fro-Daddy
Well-Known Member
Grmblz
Well-Known Member
No need to mate, my original #3943 "It needs two ports, one for the element and one for a drain valve, otherwise it's useless as a still boiler " it's easy to see a post and comment without going back to the beginning of the thread. fwiw in it's current form I don't rate it for either application.
Grmblz
Well-Known Member
At last, a good use for it.
Lol, This thing is literally 2 kegmenters welded together.. They have said in kegmenter videos that you have to drill a 32mm hole and throw in a 2.4kw element for a still boiler.. Same thing applies here.
Find me a 100L or more (not a 50L keg that everyone uses, but 100L) boiler off the shelf that is even close to $329 + $70 (4.8kw worth of stick elements) + $13 (32mm punch). 5star's 100L milk can boiler start at $1700!!
clickeral
Well-Known Member
Lol, This thing is literally 2 kegmenters welded together.. They have said in kegmenter videos that you have to drill a 32mm hole and throw in a 2.4kw element for a still boiler.. Same thing applies here.
Find me a 100L or more (not a 50L keg that everyone uses, but 100L) boiler off the shelf that is even close to $329 + $70 (4.8kw worth of stick elements) + $13 (32mm punch). 5star's 100L milk can boiler start at $1700!!
110L CPB Milk Can Boiler 790 plus shipping is alittle cheaper
but you are right if your willing to diy its not a bad option, my issue would be how stable is it but knowing people that weld two kegs together I am sure its not that bad
Grmblz
Well-Known Member
"5star's 100L milk can boiler start at $1700!!"
True, but you're not comparing apples with apples are you, it's got an 8" top, 4″ still mount, 2″ fill port, 2 x 2″ element ports, 2″ bottom drain with butterfly valve.
My post #3956 :
"KL are seeing this and not commenting, so maybe they are having a rethink about it's suitability as a still boiler, I hope so.
Sticking a 4" tc on top makes it appealing for a still boiler but less so for a fermenter (look at the height of it) how about an 8" tc on top with a 8" to 4" reducer available as an option, and 3 x 1.5" tc's on the bottom, covers all bases except yeast harvesting"
Look familiar does it?
Drilling/punching holes and using threaded whatevers ruins it as a fermenter, because of the sanitation issues with threads which is why we have "sanitary" tc's.
From KL's website:
"This oversized kegmenter can also be turned into a boiler for distillation with the 3600W heating element that you can purchase with part number (KL17770). This element is 1.5inch Tri-Clover so it will fit directly into the port on the base of the Kegmenter."
They also state:
"If you are going to be using these elements directly in your mash tun, and will try to maintain temperature using the element, we would also recommend getting a power control chip 3600w to modify the power output to the element. Too higher power directly in contact with your malted grain can cause scorching/off flavours as the temperature may not be evenly distributed and isolated purely around the element itself.
So it's not an ULWD element and will scorch your wort/wash?
Highly recommended for your HLT, or even for a HERMS or RIMS setup.
Errr HLT, yeh it's ok to boil water with it. RIMS and HERMS see ^ re scorched mash.
Powerful enough to use on 50-100L boilers and vessels.
REALLY! you're going to boil 100Ltr with a 220W element, as Cheech said to Chong "Hope ya aint busy for about a month" it's an old movie.
No mention of drilling, punching, tapping, what happens when you need to access the inside through a 4"hole? or when you fill that one and only 1.5" tc hole with an element? DUH!
Jeez it's not bloody rocket science, I get that they're trying to do it as cheap as possible but it has to be fit for purpose.
Industry standard elements 1"BSP, use 2" tc's, valves 2" commonly available, so why not weld on 3 x 2" ferrules and make the top an 8"?
I had my 4" still built to my spec's by DYE (so I know what it costs to produce a 100ltr boiler with 3 x 2" ferrules for heating and tap, and an 8" and 2 x 2" ferrules on top, and yes 5 star is taking the piss, but KL (who I love dearly for bringing down the prices so much by providing real competition) do need to get their act together. It's all starting to look like amateur half hour.
True, but you're not comparing apples with apples are you, it's got an 8" top, 4″ still mount, 2″ fill port, 2 x 2″ element ports, 2″ bottom drain with butterfly valve.
My post #3956 :
"KL are seeing this and not commenting, so maybe they are having a rethink about it's suitability as a still boiler, I hope so.
Sticking a 4" tc on top makes it appealing for a still boiler but less so for a fermenter (look at the height of it) how about an 8" tc on top with a 8" to 4" reducer available as an option, and 3 x 1.5" tc's on the bottom, covers all bases except yeast harvesting"
Look familiar does it?
Drilling/punching holes and using threaded whatevers ruins it as a fermenter, because of the sanitation issues with threads which is why we have "sanitary" tc's.
From KL's website:
"This oversized kegmenter can also be turned into a boiler for distillation with the 3600W heating element that you can purchase with part number (KL17770). This element is 1.5inch Tri-Clover so it will fit directly into the port on the base of the Kegmenter."
They also state:
"If you are going to be using these elements directly in your mash tun, and will try to maintain temperature using the element, we would also recommend getting a power control chip 3600w to modify the power output to the element. Too higher power directly in contact with your malted grain can cause scorching/off flavours as the temperature may not be evenly distributed and isolated purely around the element itself.
So it's not an ULWD element and will scorch your wort/wash?
Highly recommended for your HLT, or even for a HERMS or RIMS setup.
Errr HLT, yeh it's ok to boil water with it. RIMS and HERMS see ^ re scorched mash.
Powerful enough to use on 50-100L boilers and vessels.
REALLY! you're going to boil 100Ltr with a 220W element, as Cheech said to Chong "Hope ya aint busy for about a month" it's an old movie.
No mention of drilling, punching, tapping, what happens when you need to access the inside through a 4"hole? or when you fill that one and only 1.5" tc hole with an element? DUH!
Jeez it's not bloody rocket science, I get that they're trying to do it as cheap as possible but it has to be fit for purpose.
Industry standard elements 1"BSP, use 2" tc's, valves 2" commonly available, so why not weld on 3 x 2" ferrules and make the top an 8"?
I had my 4" still built to my spec's by DYE (so I know what it costs to produce a 100ltr boiler with 3 x 2" ferrules for heating and tap, and an 8" and 2 x 2" ferrules on top, and yes 5 star is taking the piss, but KL (who I love dearly for bringing down the prices so much by providing real competition) do need to get their act together. It's all starting to look like amateur half hour.
TheBeerBaron
Well-Known Member
Christ on a bike!
Pretty certain these kegmenters are 99.9% aimed at people fermenting and the boiler bit is tacked on as a bit of a value add sales pitch.
End of the day, you can put an element in it and boil stuff, they're not lying.
@Grmblz no ones forcing you to buy it so give it a rest hey?
Pretty certain these kegmenters are 99.9% aimed at people fermenting and the boiler bit is tacked on as a bit of a value add sales pitch.
End of the day, you can put an element in it and boil stuff, they're not lying.
@Grmblz no ones forcing you to buy it so give it a rest hey?
Grmblz
Well-Known Member
Christ rode an ass btw
No they're not lying, they're just being careless with the truth.
If people would read the whole bloody thread before chiming in after a particular post with a comment that's already been covered war and peace wouldn't have to be written.
You obviously haven't read it because if you had you would understand my frustration hey?
And no ones forcing you to read this or comment hey?
So have a bit of courtesy hey?
I dislike mediocrity and that is what this vessel is, so sue me. Hey!
donald_trub
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I'd love it if you guys sold Fermcap. Given we run our Brewzillas pretty full, I think you'd get a few takers.
Grmblz
Well-Known Member
^ +1
sixfignig
Well-Known Member
@KegLand-com-au
Suppose a long shot and may be no use to me but will you consider making a smaller 20L version of the Digiboil?
I need a sparge vessel but a 35L Digiboil is overkill for what i need.
Suppose a long shot and may be no use to me but will you consider making a smaller 20L version of the Digiboil?
I need a sparge vessel but a 35L Digiboil is overkill for what i need.
@KegLand-com-au
Do you still recommend a pour rate of 300ml per 10 seconds?
I'm using Intertaps, approx 1.2 metres of 4mm ID line @ 12psi. My pour is too fast - any ideas other than swapping the entire lines out for longer?
Do you still recommend a pour rate of 300ml per 10 seconds?
I'm using Intertaps, approx 1.2 metres of 4mm ID line @ 12psi. My pour is too fast - any ideas other than swapping the entire lines out for longer?
Last edited:
huez
Well-Known Member
Can we get the topic back onto the 6 keg kegerator please...?
TheBeerBaron
Well-Known Member
You could always look into an Immersion circulator... You can pick them up for less than $150. All you need then is a normal 20L pot. It will keep that amount of sparge water at temps around 80c easy.
Kogan have this one, 1300watts. $99.
https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/kogan-smarterhome-sous-vide-precision-cooker/
they can take a while to bring cold water up to these temps so I start with hot tap and some boiling water from a jug and that cuts the time down.
Plus then, you have the added benefit of being able to cook sous vide which if you haven't will rock your world.
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