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KegLand Questions and Answers

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by KegLand-com-au, 26/4/18.

 

  1. Timbo

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    Posted 16/7/19
    Hahaha certainly!
     
  2. peteru

    Here, taste this!

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    Posted 16/7/19
    Is that $4.95 for a pack of ten carbonation caps?
     
  3. onemorecell

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    Posted 17/7/19
  4. KegLand-com-au

    www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel AHB Sponsor

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    Posted 17/7/19
    No it's $4.95 for the single, but we will also sell packs of 10 and if you purchase the pack of 10 the price will come down to about $3.50 per unit. I know a lot of guys are taking PET bottles of beer to parties, BBQs etc and it's easy to loose the caps at these types of events so purchasing the plastic one might be the way to go.

    Also I don't think we had the photos uploaded yesterday so these have just been uploaded.
    https://www.kegland.com.au/plastic-carbonation-line-cleaning-cap-fermzilla-cap.html

    You can attach beer line to it just like you normally would like this:
    https://www.kegland.com.au/media/ca...8d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/img_20190703_093248.jpg

    You can also attach a duotight fitting on the back.
     
  5. KegLand-com-au

    www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel AHB Sponsor

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    Posted 17/7/19
    We don't have an exact shipping date but we will have the whole that will be back in stock in about 2 week:
    https://www.kegland.com.au/double-tap-cooler-jockey-magic-box-with-aluminium-cold-plate.html
    Our kit is a bit more expensive but we do use a really good quality cooler for the kit which is why the price is what it is. If you use a cheaper esky you can probably make it a bit cheaper.

    No need to have any clearance around the sides. As you can see from our kit we have the cooler plate almost an exact fit in the cooler itself.
    https://www.kegland.com.au/media/ca...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/k/l/kl12447_13_.jpg

    The main thing to mention when using these is to make sure that the ice is in contact with the aluminium cold plate so you can get good heat transfer.

    Also not sure if you noticed but in the images we had one customer make a nice design where you dont have to drill your esky. This was quite a cleaver design. He brought it into us to show us and you can see the photos here:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I thought this was a cleaver way to do it and not difficult to build. So you just clip the attachment under the esky lid and then use the ball lock post for beer in and obviously the beer comes out the tap.
     
    krz, TwoCrows and onemorecell like this.
  6. S.E

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    Posted 17/7/19
    That’s genius, haven’t seen that design before. You could make something similar for a chest freezer if you wanted to convert between freezer/keezer easily.
     
    TwoCrows and onemorecell like this.
  7. Nullnvoid

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    Posted 18/7/19
    Noticed you have changed this to the most popular items for that particular day. It's very refreshing to see!

    Thanks for taking the feedback onboard and changing it!
     
    Abird89 likes this.
  8. KegLand-com-au

    www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel AHB Sponsor

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    Posted 18/7/19
    Yes due to your request we ended up changing the website so this is based on most popular for the past 48hrs.
     
    onemorecell, Nullnvoid and Abird89 like this.
  9. fdsaasdf

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    Posted 18/7/19
    This is how I built my 4-tap jockey box - my collar doesn't clip in so nicely as these pics - I had to knock it up in a hurry to cater a wedding. Works well and easy to remove.
     
  10. sixfignig

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    Posted 21/7/19
    Any plans of of releasing fully wired PID brew controllers? In particular, there's nothing on the market that can power 15/20A (ie. 3500-4500w) elements out of the box.
     
  11. Kenf

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    Posted 21/7/19
    Yes there is it’s called Smartpid and it can use up to 3 outlets to switch SSR’s. One of those is a dedicated to SSRs I run two 40 amp SSR’s and a 25 watt pump on one and a heater belt and fridge cooling unit on the other.
     
  12. Vrtigo

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    Posted 21/7/19
    There is a large range of PID controllers that can be found here:
    https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

    Shipping from the US is expensive but if you get everything at once it becomes a bit easier to swallow.

    I'm using Ramp/Soak PID for mash and Boil PID for kettle - currently running 2400w elements, just purchased 3500w elements (got a 15A socket in garage) but have capacity for 7200w, all with the components purchased from this website.

    You can read a TON of information and look at buying pre-made items here if money is not an issue:
    https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/

    I personally went with this more simple build:
    PID.jpg
     
    Bbowzky1 likes this.
  13. KegLand-com-au

    www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel AHB Sponsor

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    Posted 22/7/19
    We are working on a new IOT temp controller that will have a PID heating function it it however it will not be able to take this very high wattage out of the box. It's fairly uncommon for home brewers to need 20A. It also makes the cabling and sockets and plugs quite a bit more expensive for the small percentage of the market that need these quite high power requirements. For the fer people that would need this high power requirement they would fairly easily be able to fit an additional relay onto one of our 10amp models.

    This new temp controller will work with the same hub as our fermenting fridge so you can log information from various different devices on the same platform. The temp controller may not be finished until end of this year or start of next year.
     
  14. theSeekerr

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    Posted 22/7/19
    Is the scale of the Precision Hydrometer set (KL14069) misquoted by a factor of 10? i.e. should they be 1.000 - 1.010 , 1.010-1.020 etc?

    Description currently says they're:

    Hydrometer 1 - 1.000-1.100
    Hydrometer 2 - 1.100-1.200
    Hydrometer 3 - 1.200-1.300
    Hydrometer 4 - 1.300-1.400
    Hydrometer 5 - 1.400-1.500
    Hydrometer 6 - 1.500-1.600
    Hydrometer 7 - 1.600-1.700

    Which would make hydrometer 1 a normal sort of hydrometer for beer, hydrometer 2 marginally useful for imperials, quads, and barleywines, and hydrometers 3-7 completely useless.
     
    mashmonkey likes this.
  15. MontPel

    Active Member

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    Posted 22/7/19
    I recently received some flow control disconnects. They are covered in machine oil (I assume) as part of the packaging. Do I need to fully disassemble and give them a detergent clean before use? Do they need oil externally for corrosion resistance?
     
  16. sp0rk

    Mayor of Pooptown

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    Posted 22/7/19
    15A would be nice so people can retrofit to their Brewzilla or Guten to allow a nicer (self coded I'd guess) web interface instead of the basic inputs on the units
    The SmartPID setup is nice, but rather expensive ($250 for the Guten/Brew Devil/Etc version)
     
    Kenf likes this.
  17. Ferment8

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    Posted 23/7/19
    Anyone please tell me what size tube I will need for the 1 micron filter kit? The 4mm x 8mm I have doesnt seem to want to lol
     
  18. Thomas Wood

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    Posted 23/7/19
    Does the Fermzilla fit in the Kegmaster series 4? What about with the carb cap/spunding valve?
    Any ETA and price indication for the fermenter fridges?
     
  19. KegLand-com-au

    www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel AHB Sponsor

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    Posted 23/7/19
    These are made from 304 stainless steel so corrosion should not be an issue but as with any stainless steel part it cannot hurt to give them a sanitise in something like the Stellarsan. One of the reasons we use Stellarsan is due to the fact that it pacifies stainless steel really well meaning your stainless remains it great condition. This has been described in more detail here:
    https://www.kegland.com.au/blog/stainless-steel-pickling-and-passivation/

    Also Stellarsan has some surfactants that will help to remove any residual oil from the machining process.
     
  20. KegLand-com-au

    www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel AHB Sponsor

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    Posted 23/7/19
    If you are talking about this one:

    https://www.kegland.com.au/beer-filtering-system-10inch.html

    Then the barbs on this one will fit our 6mm EVABarrier tubing.

    with that said to be honest I have never really loved the idea of brass against finished beer so my gut feeling would be to upgrade the brass fittings to these:

    https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-9-5mm-3-8-x-1-2inch-male-ball-valve.html

    https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-9-5mm-3-8-x-1-2inch-male-1144.html

    These will be easier to fit to the filter and really a better option that brass in my opinion.
     

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