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KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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Is that $4.95 for a pack of ten carbonation caps?
No it's $4.95 for the single, but we will also sell packs of 10 and if you purchase the pack of 10 the price will come down to about $3.50 per unit. I know a lot of guys are taking PET bottles of beer to parties, BBQs etc and it's easy to loose the caps at these types of events so purchasing the plastic one might be the way to go.

Also I don't think we had the photos uploaded yesterday so these have just been uploaded.
https://www.kegland.com.au/plastic-carbonation-line-cleaning-cap-fermzilla-cap.html

You can attach beer line to it just like you normally would like this:
https://www.kegland.com.au/media/ca...8d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/img_20190703_093248.jpg

You can also attach a duotight fitting on the back.
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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I'd like to make a jockey box with this https://www.kegland.com.au/cast-aluminum-cold-plate-two-circuit-lines.html

To figure out what size esky to get, does the esky only need to fit the chiller plate, or does it need some extra space around the sides?

Any idea if your ready-made jockey box is coming back in stock?
We don't have an exact shipping date but we will have the whole that will be back in stock in about 2 week:
https://www.kegland.com.au/double-tap-cooler-jockey-magic-box-with-aluminium-cold-plate.html
Our kit is a bit more expensive but we do use a really good quality cooler for the kit which is why the price is what it is. If you use a cheaper esky you can probably make it a bit cheaper.

No need to have any clearance around the sides. As you can see from our kit we have the cooler plate almost an exact fit in the cooler itself.
https://www.kegland.com.au/media/ca...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/k/l/kl12447_13_.jpg

The main thing to mention when using these is to make sure that the ice is in contact with the aluminium cold plate so you can get good heat transfer.

Also not sure if you noticed but in the images we had one customer make a nice design where you dont have to drill your esky. This was quite a cleaver design. He brought it into us to show us and you can see the photos here:




I thought this was a cleaver way to do it and not difficult to build. So you just clip the attachment under the esky lid and then use the ball lock post for beer in and obviously the beer comes out the tap.
 

S.E

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I thought this was a cleaver way to do it and not difficult to build. So you just clip the attachment under the esky lid and then use the ball lock post for beer in and obviously the beer comes out the tap.
That’s genius, haven’t seen that design before. You could make something similar for a chest freezer if you wanted to convert between freezer/keezer easily.
 

Nullnvoid

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We totally agree with you. I think we should show the most popular items for that particular day. This would make the website more interesting to look at. Thanks of your support Nullnvoid! We really appreciate it.
Noticed you have changed this to the most popular items for that particular day. It's very refreshing to see!

Thanks for taking the feedback onboard and changing it!
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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Noticed you have changed this to the most popular items for that particular day. It's very refreshing to see!

Thanks for taking the feedback onboard and changing it!
Yes due to your request we ended up changing the website so this is based on most popular for the past 48hrs.
 

fdsaasdf

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Also not sure if you noticed but in the images we had one customer make a nice design where you dont have to drill your esky. This was quite a cleaver design. He brought it into us to show us and you can see the photos here:

<pics>

I thought this was a cleaver way to do it and not difficult to build. So you just clip the attachment under the esky lid and then use the ball lock post for beer in and obviously the beer comes out the tap.
This is how I built my 4-tap jockey box - my collar doesn't clip in so nicely as these pics - I had to knock it up in a hurry to cater a wedding. Works well and easy to remove.
 

sixfignig

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Any plans of of releasing fully wired PID brew controllers? In particular, there's nothing on the market that can power 15/20A (ie. 3500-4500w) elements out of the box.
 

Kenf

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Any plans of of releasing fully wired PID brew controllers? In particular, there's nothing on the market that can power 15/20A (ie. 3500-4500w) elements out of the box.
Yes there is it’s called Smartpid and it can use up to 3 outlets to switch SSR’s. One of those is a dedicated to SSRs I run two 40 amp SSR’s and a 25 watt pump on one and a heater belt and fridge cooling unit on the other.
 

Vrtigo

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There is a large range of PID controllers that can be found here:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

Shipping from the US is expensive but if you get everything at once it becomes a bit easier to swallow.

I'm using Ramp/Soak PID for mash and Boil PID for kettle - currently running 2400w elements, just purchased 3500w elements (got a 15A socket in garage) but have capacity for 7200w, all with the components purchased from this website.

You can read a TON of information and look at buying pre-made items here if money is not an issue:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/

I personally went with this more simple build:
PID.jpg
 

KegLand-com-au

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Any plans of of releasing fully wired PID brew controllers? In particular, there's nothing on the market that can power 15/20A (ie. 3500-4500w) elements out of the box.
We are working on a new IOT temp controller that will have a PID heating function it it however it will not be able to take this very high wattage out of the box. It's fairly uncommon for home brewers to need 20A. It also makes the cabling and sockets and plugs quite a bit more expensive for the small percentage of the market that need these quite high power requirements. For the fer people that would need this high power requirement they would fairly easily be able to fit an additional relay onto one of our 10amp models.

This new temp controller will work with the same hub as our fermenting fridge so you can log information from various different devices on the same platform. The temp controller may not be finished until end of this year or start of next year.
 

theSeekerr

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Is the scale of the Precision Hydrometer set (KL14069) misquoted by a factor of 10? i.e. should they be 1.000 - 1.010 , 1.010-1.020 etc?

Description currently says they're:

Hydrometer 1 - 1.000-1.100
Hydrometer 2 - 1.100-1.200
Hydrometer 3 - 1.200-1.300
Hydrometer 4 - 1.300-1.400
Hydrometer 5 - 1.400-1.500
Hydrometer 6 - 1.500-1.600
Hydrometer 7 - 1.600-1.700

Which would make hydrometer 1 a normal sort of hydrometer for beer, hydrometer 2 marginally useful for imperials, quads, and barleywines, and hydrometers 3-7 completely useless.
 

MontPel

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I recently received some flow control disconnects. They are covered in machine oil (I assume) as part of the packaging. Do I need to fully disassemble and give them a detergent clean before use? Do they need oil externally for corrosion resistance?
 

sp0rk

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We are working on a new IOT temp controller that will have a PID heating function it it however it will not be able to take this very high wattage out of the box. It's fairly uncommon for home brewers to need 20A. It also makes the cabling and sockets and plugs quite a bit more expensive for the small percentage of the market that need these quite high power requirements. For the fer people that would need this high power requirement they would fairly easily be able to fit an additional relay onto one of our 10amp models.

This new temp controller will work with the same hub as our fermenting fridge so you can log information from various different devices on the same platform. The temp controller may not be finished until end of this year or start of next year.
15A would be nice so people can retrofit to their Brewzilla or Guten to allow a nicer (self coded I'd guess) web interface instead of the basic inputs on the units
The SmartPID setup is nice, but rather expensive ($250 for the Guten/Brew Devil/Etc version)
 

Ferment8

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Anyone please tell me what size tube I will need for the 1 micron filter kit? The 4mm x 8mm I have doesnt seem to want to lol
 

Thomas Wood

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Does the Fermzilla fit in the Kegmaster series 4? What about with the carb cap/spunding valve?
Any ETA and price indication for the fermenter fridges?
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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I recently received some flow control disconnects. They are covered in machine oil (I assume) as part of the packaging. Do I need to fully disassemble and give them a detergent clean before use? Do they need oil externally for corrosion resistance?
These are made from 304 stainless steel so corrosion should not be an issue but as with any stainless steel part it cannot hurt to give them a sanitise in something like the Stellarsan. One of the reasons we use Stellarsan is due to the fact that it pacifies stainless steel really well meaning your stainless remains it great condition. This has been described in more detail here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/blog/stainless-steel-pickling-and-passivation/

Also Stellarsan has some surfactants that will help to remove any residual oil from the machining process.
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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Anyone please tell me what size tube I will need for the 1 micron filter kit? The 4mm x 8mm I have doesnt seem to want to lol
If you are talking about this one:

https://www.kegland.com.au/beer-filtering-system-10inch.html

Then the barbs on this one will fit our 6mm EVABarrier tubing.

with that said to be honest I have never really loved the idea of brass against finished beer so my gut feeling would be to upgrade the brass fittings to these:

https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-9-5mm-3-8-x-1-2inch-male-ball-valve.html

https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-9-5mm-3-8-x-1-2inch-male-1144.html

These will be easier to fit to the filter and really a better option that brass in my opinion.
 
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