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KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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Does the Fermzilla fit in the Kegmaster series 4? What about with the carb cap/spunding valve?
Any ETA and price indication for the fermenter fridges?
The fermenting fridge will be about $500 but it will still be at least a couple months unti lit's released.

without the stand and collection container the FermZilla can fit into a Series 4 and also you can fit the splunding valve and other stuff onto the posts on the lid and you have enough clearance for this.

With that said it's not the ideal solution and really the Fermenting fridge is worth waiting for.
 

f00b4r

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This thread is getting long enough as it is. If we can try to keep the conversation relevant to the other people on the forum that would be good. What new stuff do you guys want us to work on for you. That's really what we should talk about. We have some really cool internet connect temp controllers that we are working on. What featured in particular do you guys want to see?
Some kind of screen to go on the end of your floating dip tubes would be good for hop heavy or fruited beers.
 

Bbowzky1

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There is a large range of PID controllers that can be found here:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

Shipping from the US is expensive but if you get everything at once it becomes a bit easier to swallow.

I'm using Ramp/Soak PID for mash and Boil PID for kettle - currently running 2400w elements, just purchased 3500w elements (got a 15A socket in garage) but have capacity for 7200w, all with the components purchased from this website.

You can read a TON of information and look at buying pre-made items here if money is not an issue:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/

I personally went with this more simple build:
View attachment 116125
Auber instruments some of the best PIDs I've used.
Love the functionality and usability
 

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onemorecell

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Some kind of screen to go on the end of your floating dip tubes would be good for hop heavy or fruited beers.
I'd love some better way to get beer out of the kegmenter
I'm not smart enough to figure it out, but hopefully you can!

issue with the dip tube is the floating one doesn't get everything, a stainless one I don't know how long to make, and both clog :(
 

bobsledboy

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This thread is getting long enough as it is. If we can try to keep the conversation relevant to the other people on the forum that would be good. What new stuff do you guys want us to work on for you. That's really what we should talk about. We have some really cool internet connect temp controllers that we are working on. What featured in particular do you guys want to see?
Would be great to get an alternative to the bouncer filter for filtering out hops/fruit. Even the large one doesn't hold enough hop material without clogging and something like this is not ideal because you can't see what's happening inside.
 

Kenf

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15A would be nice so people can retrofit to their Brewzilla or Guten to allow a nicer (self coded I'd guess) web interface instead of the basic inputs on the units
The SmartPID setup is nice, but rather expensive ($250 for the Guten/Brew Devil/Etc version)
It is but I guess it’s a bit more than an Inkbird. The Amp issue can be handled by SSR’s I guess, I wouldn’t think making everything 15 amp wouldn’t be too hard!
 

devoutharpist

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kegland, tell me where i went wrong please.

When assembling the spunding kit, it was difficult to get the black plastic to mate with the duotight T piece, didnt seem to want to clip in and kept pulling out easy (i.e. without pushing the release down). Eventually got it to clip in though. Went to test it today and CO2 pressure came shooting out of one of the t piece joins. Tried to take it all apart and now that black tubing wont release from the t-piece ends no matter how hard i try.

Wish i just used some of the evabarrier instead :(

So i have it set up and working without the t-piece and therefor without the gauge... but not ideal.
 

FarsideOfCrazy

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kegland, tell me where i went wrong please.

When assembling the spunding kit, it was difficult to get the black plastic to mate with the duotight T piece, didnt seem to want to clip in and kept pulling out easy (i.e. without pushing the release down). Eventually got it to clip in though. Went to test it today and CO2 pressure came shooting out of one of the t piece joins. Tried to take it all apart and now that black tubing wont release from the t-piece ends no matter how hard i try.

Wish i just used some of the evabarrier instead :(

So i have it set up and working without the t-piece and therefor without the gauge... but not ideal.
I had the same problem with the black plastic joiner. It ended up being mangled trying to get it inserted to the t-piece. I just ended up using a short length of line
 

JnR_Mc

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Same,

I accidentally broke my Tee Piece trying to get the black piece out..... now I have moved the sounding valve to a John Guest Y piece to get it all working.
20190727_161259.jpg
 

Bayes

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Hey Kegland
I placed and paid for an order online earlier this week intending to pickup after lunch today. I arrived at your Parcel Lockers and attempted to gain access via the roller door but my Roller Door code was continually rejected. It reported that my code was either Incorrect or had expired. I have photos of the code I entered and it was not incorrect. Seems a waste of time to offer a 24/7 Locker system that incorrectly denies access to goods ordered and paid for. A after hours contact number would have been nice I might have been able to get the items that I paid for. :thumbsdown:
 

Joshed1

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I had the same problem with the black plastic joiner. It ended up being mangled trying to get it inserted to the t-piece. I just ended up using a short length of line

Same here, the black piece wouldn't hold pressure and then jammed in my duo tight fitting and has now smashed so I can't get it out, i don't have any spare john guest fittings so looks like my "high pressure ferment" wont be so high..
 

FarsideOfCrazy

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Looks like the black joiner pieces are a bit of a fail. Once I got the damaged one out there was now way I was going to try the other one. I should have just bought the valve and gauge as I had other bits to set it up.
 

Joshed1

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Looks like the black joiner pieces are a bit of a fail. Once I got the damaged one out there was now way I was going to try the other one. I should have just bought the valve and gauge as I had other bits to set it up.
How did you manage yo get it out? Mines well and truly stuck in there (whats left of it)
 

devoutharpist

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Looks like the black joiner pieces are a bit of a fail. Once I got the damaged one out there was now way I was going to try the other one. I should have just bought the valve and gauge as I had other bits to set it up.
Basically, i don't reckon i can even get the black piece out without breaking the duotight now either. Not really keen on spending $6 shipping just to get a new t-piece
 

FarsideOfCrazy

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I used a pair of pliers and a pair of multigrips. I held down the coller with the pliers and twisted the joiner whilst pulling it out with the multigrips. It wasn't easy and thought it was going to break. 2 people might make it easier.
 

Grmblz

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Basically, i don't reckon i can even get the black piece out without breaking the duotight now either. Not really keen on spending $6 shipping just to get a new t-piece
Flick them an e-mail, I'll be surprised if they don't send you a new one FOC given that this seems to be a common problem , I had an issue with a couple of duo connectors and they just sent me new ones (turned out to be my own fault, don't let duo's anywhere near bleach) cheers
 

devoutharpist

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Flick them an e-mail, I'll be surprised if they don't send you a new one FOC given that this seems to be a common problem , I had an issue with a couple of duo connectors and they just sent me new ones (turned out to be my own fault, don't let duo's anywhere near bleach) cheers
yeah i'll shoot them an email about it, understandably i guess they don't lurk this thread on the weekend.

Otherwise, that red spunding bowtie valve has been great during cold crash and closed transfer.
 

Grmblz

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Otherwise, that red spunding bowtie valve has been great during cold crash and closed transfer.
Yep, I love mine, much more accurate than the brass spring loaded thing I was using before, although I do find the adjustment a bit touchy a finer thread on the valve would be ideal.
 

sixfignig

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Agreed, the plastic joiners are a disaster and I destroy a T-Piece getting one out :-/
 
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