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Has anyone used the kegland magnetic drive pumps?

They have two models available:
1. 65W STAINLESS HEAD MAGNETIC DRIVE PUMP - more expensive, high flow, URL indicates high temp
2. 25 WATT MAGNETIC DRIVE PUMP MKII VERSION - cheap, sufficient flow, high temp capable

Can anyone comment on the sound level of these pumps? are either super loud or quiet?

I've read that the Blichmann RipTide Pumps are very quiet and have a built in valve which is nice but quite expensive in comparison.

My initial use will be to recirculate chiller water from ice bath through a coil in prep for pitching and then eventually utilise in a homemade double batch 1V system.

Appreciate your thoughts, thanks
 
Has anyone used the kegland magnetic drive pumps?

They have two models available:
1. 65W STAINLESS HEAD MAGNETIC DRIVE PUMP - more expensive, high flow, URL indicates high temp
2. 25 WATT MAGNETIC DRIVE PUMP MKII VERSION - cheap, sufficient flow, high temp capable

Can anyone comment on the sound level of these pumps? are either super loud or quiet?

I've read that the Blichmann RipTide Pumps are very quiet and have a built in valve which is nice but quite expensive in comparison.

My initial use will be to recirculate chiller water from ice bath through a coil in prep for pitching and then eventually utilise in a homemade double batch 1V system.

Appreciate your thoughts, thanks
I've got the KK 25W, which is the same pump. Works fine for recirculating the mash; I can hear it running, but it's far from the loudest thing in the brewery.

One thing to keep in mind is that these pump heads have parallel threads, not tapered (on the 25W version, at least). So you need to put a seal on the end of the thread, rather than using teflon tape. Took me a while (and a great deal of bad language) to work it out why it kept leaking :hairout:.
 
Has anyone used the kegland magnetic drive pumps?

They have two models available:
1. 65W STAINLESS HEAD MAGNETIC DRIVE PUMP - more expensive, high flow, URL indicates high temp
2. 25 WATT MAGNETIC DRIVE PUMP MKII VERSION - cheap, sufficient flow, high temp capable

Can anyone comment on the sound level of these pumps? are either super loud or quiet?

I've read that the Blichmann RipTide Pumps are very quiet and have a built in valve which is nice but quite expensive in comparison.

My initial use will be to recirculate chiller water from ice bath through a coil in prep for pitching and then eventually utilise in a homemade double batch 1V system.

Appreciate your thoughts, thanks

Hi Ben, I’ve got the 65 watt model. I initially got it for CIP on my brewtech fermenter but I use it pretty much for everything now. I’ve had a March pump for many years but it couldn’t match the flow for the CIP spray ball. The 65 watt model is a quality unit, Im very happy with it.
 
The main source of noise on the Series 4 is definitely NOT the fan. The evaporator/refrigerant is very noisy. It cannot be put in a living area of the house it is so loud.

I regret buying the Series 4 simply because it is too loud.

Just bought a Series X and unfortunately I've got the same comment. "It cannot be put in a living area of the house it is so loud." I had higher hopes after comments in this thread about it being quiet.

The compressor is really quiet, barely noticable - then after about 30 seconds to 1 minute the refrigerant noise kicks in. Feels about twice as loud as the compressor, I'll try and put a sound meter on it when I get a chance. Is sitting in a tiled bar area and I'm busy doing web searches for noise absorbers/attenuation. Might just put it on a timer so I have cold beer when I get home from work, but turned off for rest of evening.

Compressor noise seems to be harmonics of 50Hz unsurprisingly, 100/150Hz a phone app puts peaks at 50 & 100Hz the refrigerant noise seems to be higher up around 500Hz. But is _very_ annoying. The sound clips on the Kegland website don't do it justice.

The fan isn't exactly quiet either - but that doesn't have to run all the time. Although a simple DC fan should be virtually silent.

Advised on phone that the refrigerant noise should decrease over time - but I'm unsure if that is real or just to let me get accustomed to the noise and hope I go away.

Kegland: Given the fridge has wire guard extending out behind compressor why not run exposed coils behind fridge rather than in side panels? Would have to be more efficient.

Side note: does the manufacturing process for the regulators end with them being cleaned in kerosene? - really strong smell - which I'm hoping isn't permeating the gas lines. I've gone back and cleaned outside of reg with isopropyl with some success.
 
Love that info/pics about the malt.

Do you think husks being intact (or the different malt crush in general) makes any difference for BIAB?

Probably will not make a lot of difference for BIAB but most of our testing was done in traditional style brewery setup or BrewZilla units.
 
Check the site mate.. the new versions are in stock, saw them yesterday
They're not flow control disconnects, just a new KL stainless disconnect.

Hopefully the new fc version is better than the one I have. If I put push on the disconnect sideways it sprays beer out. I don't think I'll drop anymore coin on the new one.
 
Well, ****. Don't mind me! as you were...

They do look to be a similar design to the flow control disconnects though, so hopefully their appearance means KL have sorted out the tolerance issues that relegated the previous batch of FCs to seconds...
 
@KegLand-com-au what is the thread in the robo/brewzilla malt pipe bottom screen - is it 3/8"?

I'm looking for a threaded rod without the clip and slider, already have plenty of 1/2" pipe so I might just get a 1/2" reducer down to 3/8" if that will fit
 
Has anyone ran natural gas through your 200MJ burner with success?
Kl013355.
20200213_210515.jpg
 
How quickly will this unit chill 50L of wort from boiling to 18C?

Would you use tap water down to say 50C and then use this for the rest of the chilling?

https://www.kegland.com.au/icemaste...ermenter-control-with-2-integrated-pumps.html

The most efficient way to do this is to use tap water to chill down from 100C to about 40C. This can be done quite fast with tap water even in summer when your tap water is warmer. Then once at 50C I would then use the G20 to chill from 40C to 18C.

The cost of water and the cost of power will probably end up being similar and the tap water will be faster for this initial temp drop. Then to chill from 50C to 18C the G20 Glycol Chiller will drop the temp from 40C to 18C in 2-3hrs. This would be the best way to do it.
 
@KegLand-com-au what is the thread in the robo/brewzilla malt pipe bottom screen - is it 3/8"?

I'm looking for a threaded rod without the clip and slider, already have plenty of 1/2" pipe so I might just get a 1/2" reducer down to 3/8" if that will fit

This thread is 1/4 inch.
 
The most efficient way to do this is to use tap water to chill down from 100C to about 40C. This can be done quite fast with tap water even in summer when your tap water is warmer. Then once at 50C I would then use the G20 to chill from 40C to 18C.

The cost of water and the cost of power will probably end up being similar and the tap water will be faster for this initial temp drop. Then to chill from 50C to 18C the G20 Glycol Chiller will drop the temp from 40C to 18C in 2-3hrs. This would be the best way to do it.

Thanks, are you talking through a CFC it will take 2-3hrs, or something like the temp twister?

https://www.kegland.com.au/temp-twi...rol-your-fermzilla-with-a-glycol-chiller.html

Did you calculate that out based on the compressor power and thermal energy of 50L of wort, or based on experience? E.g. is it purely a function of chilling capacity, or will increasing the chilling surface area improve this method?

Thanks
 
@KegLand-com-au

Hey Kee, that mini reg looks pretty neat, do you have an on-sale ETA? Got a camping trip two weeks from today - any chance of grabbing one before then?

Also, was my interpretation of your comment a couple of days ago correct - that you're not currently working on a simple tri-clamp adapter for the Fermzilla cone for use with third-party tri-clamp valves?

Thank you,
Bump please @KegLand-com-au
 
Thanks, are you talking through a CFC it will take 2-3hrs, or something like the temp twister?

https://www.kegland.com.au/temp-twi...rol-your-fermzilla-with-a-glycol-chiller.html

Did you calculate that out based on the compressor power and thermal energy of 50L of wort, or based on experience? E.g. is it purely a function of chilling capacity, or will increasing the chilling surface area improve this method?

Thanks

Yes this is calculated off the energy in the wort and 5% losses.

If you increase the chilling surface area this will not make that much difference in this application. If your cooling liquid gets closer to liquid in the fermenter/boiler then having a larger surface area is more important but as the G20 will have a significant difference in the tank temperature it will still be quite efficient at absorbing the energy in the boiler.

As this is a recirculating system the limiting factor is not so much the surface area of the coil it's just a matter of how fast the compressor/radiator/evaporator can keep up with the chilling process.
 


sorry missed that one. The new Core Actuator Mini Regulator should have already been finished however the corona virus and CNY is causing some additional delays unfortunately. I think we will get this in about 1-2 months. So you might miss out for your camping trip unfortunately.
 
We did up grade security recently so longer passwords are required. If you are in this category then we need to manually reset this on the back end. Any chance you can give us a call to sort this out out for you. It will only take a couple moments once we have the related email address.

Can I just point out how totally unacceptable this is? The only way you could know our password lengths is if our passwords were being stored in plaintext. Cryptographic hash functions produce a fixed-length output.

Since you're handling our credit card numbers I expect you to follow very basic security mechanisms that even a high schooler would know to turn on.
 
Can I just point out how totally unacceptable this is? The only way you could know our password lengths is if our passwords were being stored in plaintext.

I think they mean: the password length required is now longer than it used to be
 
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