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TidalPete said:
What about a framed whiteboard from Officeworks? Around $10 IIRC.

Another chance to show off my latest bling, :p
Nice balls
 
Wilkensone said:
Also, stupid question..

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Is this just to tighten the lever and lock it into place? My levers seems to be really tight and quite difficult to turn.
Replace with Floryte and snaplok! :p :ph34r: :D
 
I think they are designed to be that tight - so that you set your flow control position and forget it, so that it does not get easily knocked. But it does loosen if you undo that side cover, although it has a seal inside it so that's there for a reason also. Wouldn't want beer pouring out the side of the tap!!!

Soaking in PBW as we speak, armed and ready to apply lube... shame I don't have any beer in kegs to pour through them :-(
 
I've left mine slightly loose (maybe a 0.5mm gap on the cap) and it seems to be a good compromise between requiring ridiculous force to turn (and a weird squeaking noise as it rubs on the seal) and a smooth glide.

They look sexy, now I need some bloody beer in kegs!!!

Perlicks 545SS.jpg
 
That could be because they are pointing the wrong way. Assemble the taps onto the shanks with the ball at the back all the way out (no flow). That should give the lever full travel and hopefully less resistance.
 
Got mine the other day and couldn't figure out why they were so tight but must agree with Lethal, it's most likely so you can set and forget and not worry about others knocking it......especially when your like myself living with two other guys who have not the slightest clue what is going on asides from pull and pour.
 
Practical, the flow control has the control ball all the way "back" towards the shank when it points up vertically. Assembling this way meant it jammed and does not have any play at all... I assembled pointing backwards as forwards as you often see them interferes with the glass when pouring and I could see friend chipping a glass being careless when pouring. The way mine is now bringing the flow control level up to vertical position seals the ball against the curved seat in the shank and should stop flow. Is this the reverse to the chrome taps?
 
Shouldn't be, but I did use to find them a little stiffer if mounted backwards. Might just help.

Fortunately I'm rid of the problem now ;)
 
Nah theyare just as stif either way I played a fair bit. You can loosen them a lot by loosening that side cap but I think that will reduce the seal. Wont really know till I have them pressurised. Will report back one day when ive got beer in a keg!! (Anyone notice a sad theme here?!) :p
 
The flow controls on my PC's have a nice smooth easy action. I use it all the time when doing the first pour and the tap isnt chilled, I crank the flow right down, open the tap then slowly open the flow control, this stops the big head and gives a perfect glass on the first pour. After that the tap is nicely chilled I don't need to touch it.
 
Hmmm... maybe it warrants an email to Perlick. Ill shoot something to them on the weekend!
 
Frothie said:
The flow controls on my PC's have a nice smooth easy action. I use it all the time when doing the first pour and the tap isnt chilled, I crank the flow right down, open the tap then slowly open the flow control, this stops the big head and gives a perfect glass on the first pour. After that the tap is nicely chilled I don't need to touch it.
Ditto, the controls on my PC's move quite easily, firm but not stiff (have at it!). And I do exactly the same as Frothie when doing the first pour, works perfectly. If you leave them full open on the first pour you get a hell of a lot more head. Curiously though one I've poured the first, I can often not get enough head on the next pour (if done straight away), even with the flow control full open. Wondering if I should shorten my beer lines?
 
I've got both and the PC is much easier to move. I've taken the SS ones apart and cleaned/lubed and they're still pretty stiff. I do the same as above with my first pours through the warm taps. Gets a perfect pint every time and my lines are no more than 30cm. With four kegs in a 150L chesty I need all the room I can get!
 
OneEye said:
I've got both and the PC is much easier to move. I've taken the SS ones apart and cleaned/lubed and they're still pretty stiff. I do the same as above with my first pours through the warm taps. Gets a perfect pint every time and my lines are no more than 30cm. With four kegs in a 150L chesty I need all the room I can get!
30cm lines?? That would fix a LOT of the mess inside my kegerator, mine must be 1.5m or more. Mind you my font must be at least that tall, so I won't be able to get 'em that short.
 
That's my only gripe with a full fridge kegerator and full height door, even with flow controls it is looking like 1 metre is the shortest line I can get away with!!!
 
Got my new setup going, still working out the correct flow as you can see but overall loving it!

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1400409850.413545.jpg


Wilkens
 
Okie dokie.....
Just finished putting the bar together exactly how I want it.
So here's how it goes;

310 Ltr F&P chestie from graysonline. $300
4 door kitchen cabinet from eBay $25
Recycled hardwood timber flooring for a bench top. $0
Clip together flooring panels for chestie top and teak trimming $60
Putty, glue, finishing lacquer, nails, screws etc $120
Handles $36
Font from pub in Melbourne. $70 freight to Sydney $120
Taps eBay $35 each
Kegs and hardware purchased over time (except I did score a bargain last week at a garage sale. 2 kegs, 3 regs for $50!)
Bucket, tubing and aquarium pump $50
My time and effort... Priceless.






Getting frosty....

A well deserved drop...
 
mckenry said:
Is it sticking out like that so you can open the lid?
looks like it's on wheels so he can slide it out to open the lid and change kegs and then slide her back in flush with the existing cabinets.

A really nice job!
 
Yup, second pic is as if I was sliding out the cab to open and change kegs
 
Picked this up from another forum member who is moving on to bigger and better things.

Really happy with it. Not sure about the blackboard, might have to get some blackboard tap handles or a raspberrypints set up.

Hidden away in our store room and can put shelving above it so the girlfriend is happy it's not taking up space in our small court yard like my old keg fridge.

Happy days!

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1401019132.270846.jpg
 
housecat that is an awesome setup, looks very pro!

one thing, the vent down the bottom right side of the freezer, does this have any airflow past it when the unit is back in against the wall? if it's anything like the chest freezer I have the compressor sits in there and needs reasonable airflow...
 
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