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Keg King kegerator series 4

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by tavas, 29/7/14.

 

  1. Grmblz

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    Posted 27/3/19
    No worries, I'm not sure what "very cheap" is but you could just insert one of these in each of your pipes https://www.keg-king.com.au/catalog/product/view/id/114/s/push-in-joiner-8mm-x-8mm/category/48/ if you install it on a 100mm tail from your keg disconnect you can then trim the pipe easily and when you have it to your liking remove the joiner and tail and connect the trimmed pipe to the disconnect, the fewer joins in pipe work, the better IMHO. Yes I run a dual reg it's similar to this https://www.kegland.com.au/dual-pressure-mk4-regulator-type-30.html although mine is a BOC unit (a lot more expensive but bought years ago before the cheap chinese stuff was available), one line goes to the low pressure real ale disconnect and the other goes to a 6 port manifold which has these attached for fine tuning, https://www.kegland.com.au/in-line-regulator.html it's a cheaper alternative than dedicated reg's although you still need https://www.kegland.com.au/8mm-5-16-push-in-pressure-gauge-0-40psi.html and https://www.keg-king.com.au/catalog/product/view/id/112/s/push-in-tee-equal-8mm/category/48/ and I'm not sure how reliable they will be long term compared to proper reg's, I've only been using them for a few months. Just a note on "push in connectors" I've found the cheap ones to be unreliable, ok for getting your line length correct but be wary about using them in a permanent position, the pressure guage "T" for example, genuine (not ebay) John Guest have proven themselves over the years although they're not cheap, Duo-tight are more reasonably priced and so far no issues but time will tell, also I find the Duo's a bit of a pain to get off the pipe whereas the JG's are easy. Hope this helps, cheers G
     
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  2. DrJez

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    Posted 27/3/19
    How much power does the series 4 use guys. Anyone know?

    Edit, 85w. So at 26 cents p/-kw hr that equates to: 0.53 cents per day, or $50 per quarter, $200 a year. Plus gas and bits 'if' it was using the full 85w all the time. Because it turns off a bit it's likely to be using less than this, especially in cool climates. Not so much in tropical environments. Mine seems to run (always warm here) majority of the time. It's a rare occasion I walk past and it's not running

    So the more you drink, more you save. Or at least that's what I'll tell myself.. Lol

    I have 5mm lines installed premade by the store at just under 4ft long which I assumed would be too short but the pour has actually been good. Not too fast, not too slow and foam has a healthy and average head at 10psi. Considering the recommended length of 5mm id is 4m I'm doing alright. Though carb is a tadd low at the moment, I keep bumping it up day by day but nothing's happening

    My front door is always very wet with condensation, have only had it a few days and icing up at the bottom already (removed this yesterday, most was ice in the drip tray inside fridge icing up the drain hole) I'm still in the midst of trying to calibrate it. My glass of water always has a layer of ice on top but keg pours are a few degrees above what the glass is. May try putting the glass in a stubby cooler to see if it contacting surface is making the difference (kegs have rubber feet)
     
    Last edited: 27/3/19
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  3. Nullnvoid

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    Posted 27/3/19
    I pay 18.9cents/kw and my Kegland one is in a tiny 2.7x1.5m shed. At the height of summer when it would have been over 50degrees in the shed the power bill was no more than $1.60 a week.

    If that helps.
     
  4. DrJez

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    Posted 27/3/19
    Thanks for sharing man, are you absolutely sure about this? Seems low is all but I hope you're correct
     
  5. Nullnvoid

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    Posted 28/3/19
    I'm as sure as I can be :). I have a power meter attached to the kegerator so unless I haven't set it up correctly it should be accurate :)
     
  6. Jack of all biers

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    Posted 28/3/19
    Sounds like yours is out of calibration a bit or you have it set at 2C or lower and aren't running the fan much. I only found that mine would ice up under 4C setting with no fan running and only on the back cooling element. It only iced up underneath below 2C (again with no fan). I run the fan 24/7 now and there is no ice, though the outside of the front door is cool to the touch (or is this because I've been checking it now that you mentioned you issue). I don't have condensation on the outside of my door though I don't live in the tropics. I guess it'd be ideal if the fan ran only when the compressor turned on and when pouring beers, but you get what you pay for.
     
  7. DrJez

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    Posted 28/3/19
    Cheers man, the manual states most styles should be served between 1 and 2.5 degrees. Not happening with mine yet.. Keg beer is 4 degrees, glass of water -2, temperature showing on fridge 2.

    I like the neat appearance of the series 4 and it's a good introduction for first timer keggers who don't know what they're doing yet in terms of hooking up, but can't say I'm a fan of the noise or lack of productivity in performance much. My $160 brand new chest freezer would fit more in, and is very efficient and quiet in comparison, though isn't frost free and ofcourse loads from the top

    I'm sure I'll get it dialled in shortly, just a matter of making small adjustments. Will update once I have it sorted
     
    Last edited: 28/3/19
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  8. DrJez

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    Posted 28/3/19
    Wow man, actually never heard of such a device!
     
  9. dkril

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    Posted 28/3/19
    Something like this.

    https://www.jaycar.com.au/mains-power-meter/p/MS6115

    Plenty of different brands out there (though half of them are probably the same units with a different sticker)

    Quite handy for working out just what is using the power when the bills suddenly come in higher than expected.
     
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  10. DrJez

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    Posted 28/3/19
    Incredible! Thanks mate, will pick one of these up for sure
     
  11. Nullnvoid

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    Posted 28/3/19
    They are pretty handy. Especially when trying to convince the finance minister that you can afford a kegerator ;)

    Mine is similar to that but a different brand. But they all work the same.
     
  12. DrJez

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    Posted 28/3/19
    Just a question guys, thinking of buying a 3 way manifold so I can essentially run kegs as normal and carb the third one (newb to kegging I guess this will work?)

    Once two are carbed I can just turn off their gas supply and only direct co2 to the carbing keg. If this does in fact sound like a good idea, where's best to mount it on the series 4?
     
  13. Skillz

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    Posted 28/3/19
    I have a 4 way manifold and keep 3 kegs on the go. I have 1 line with a couple of meters on it with a quick disconnect i use for carbing and cleaning/purging duties.
    Works fine. I dont trust my lines not to leak so apart from carbing up i turn the gas off and will usually poor a few beers before regassing.
     
  14. Skillz

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    Posted 28/3/19
    To answer your question more directly, yes close the valves and carb away
     
  15. DrJez

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    Posted 29/3/19
    Update, I installed the 4mm lines this afternoon. Went in at 3m each and I'm not real impressed to be honest. The 1m 5mm poured pretty darn quick, but nothing to worry about. I just thought that as it carbs further there might be problems with excessive head. The 3m 4x8mm lines are too slow and form just as much head funnily enough. I'll just cut them down to 1.5m and re-clamp the duotight liquid line fittings.

    Also noticed a strange gas sound using these, shuddering and not perfectly smooth like before. Probably doesn't matter but it annoys an OCD freak like myself, lol

    I checked temp today with the glass of water on cavity sitting over night in a stubby cooler. Tested -1 so I calibrated the unit to the same temp when in idle mode which happened to be -5 degrees off actual in my instance. No more condensation at all so far on the door.. Good.

    I find running the fan full time just keeps the compressor running so at my place at least it's best to leave it off when not drinking

    I have a 2-tap and have only had it up and running since Monday, already gave in and ordered the bits to convert into a 3-tap. Ha, how's that. I just could not help myself. A previous poster saying "better off looking at it than for it" must have struck a chord. 3 different beers is way better than two, it's no contest and why the heck wouldn't you really? I need a pils, pale and weizen at all times, man. Also hear the larger volume of cool liquid inside the less running costs(?) hopefully that's true
     
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  16. Jack of all biers

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    Posted 30/3/19
    Because you haven't got everything calibrated yet (temp only just by the sounds of it), I would suggest shortening the 4mm lines to 2 metres first. You can always shorten again if you find it too slow for your liking, but it's harder to lengthen once cut. The ideal length for your system all depends on the temp you want to set it at and the gas pressure you want your beer to be carbonated at, so you may find a bit of experimentation to start with until you find what you like.

    I started with 2 x 1.5 metre and 1 x 1.1 metre (for Stouts with Stout spout) lengths at 4C and 75kpa (11 psi) and found at times it was too quick and flattened the beer with larger head than I wanted (which disappeared faster than I wanted due to most of the gas coming out on pour). I have recently changed my system to 3 x 2 metre 4mm ID lines. Currently I have the reg set at 100kpa (15 psi) less 15-20kpa (2-3 psi) for the non-return valves I have, so say 82-89kpa (12-13 psi) actual pressure to the keg, with the temp set at 6C. So far so good. I get about 1-1.5cm foam on first pour with nice small bubbles from the base of my glasses (head master) and the 425 ml glass is filled in 10-12 seconds (not timed it, but roughly).
     
  17. DrJez

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    Posted 30/3/19
    Tks Jack. I already cut to 1.5.. But seems ok so far. 6 degrees sounds quite warm?
     
  18. Jack of all biers

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    Posted 30/3/19
    Depends what you put on tap. 6C is the happy medium for lazy me. Malty ales do well served at 8-10C and German lagers are good at around 5-6C. I found 4C just too cold to get the most aroma and flavour from my beers, so tried 8C, then 6C. Super dry thin lagers are best at 2C or lower, but that is almost never on my keg list.
     
  19. DrJez

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    Posted 30/3/19
    True I guess it all depends. Aroma is certainly subdued before warming to vent but here in the tropics that doesn't take long at all. 5 minutes without a stubby cooler and you're drinking room temperature amber so the colder you can serve, the better. Anything over about 4 degrees seems too warm but I can imagine most places that's completely fine
     
  20. jollster101

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    Posted 31/3/19
    Hey JoaB (or anyone else for that matter)

    Can you provide a link to the calibration instructions for the fridge as I haven't done this and suspect mine is out. I did manage to find time to get 3 beers fermented, kegged and serving but calibration .......gotta bit lost in the mix. Must have my priorities wrong, or right depending on how you look at it.

    I tried to find a video that I saw a link for in one of the multitude of posts I have read but that didn't go anywhere. For the life of me I haven't been able to find anything since for some reason.

    I should go through this step I suppose as I am trying to balance everything up at the moment with temp / line lengths / carbonation.

    Cheers
     

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