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Keg King kegerator series 4

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by tavas, 29/7/14.

 

  1. krz

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    Posted 25/1/19
    Thinking of selling mine, it was bought March 2018 and will replace it with a Keezer, mainly due to the noise problem. The gurgling aspect annoys me as I can hear if from the loungeroom, if that could be rectified I'd keep it.
     
    Last edited: 25/1/19
    Kenf likes this.
  2. tanked84

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    Posted 25/1/19
    Keezer would definately be of interest.
     
  3. wide eyed and legless

    Pro Pro

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    Posted 25/1/19
    I do like. I don't see what else you can call it, one side drops the price the other side drops the price, etc etc, generally known as a price war.
    If I thought I had a superior product there would be no way I would be dropping any price, stand firm, and give an explanation WHY your product is superior, it would be good business practice to explain to the consumer what is better about your product than what the opposition has to offer.
     
  4. Kenf

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    Posted 25/1/19
    No I think keezers belong in the realm of those who build them! ;)
    Yep great on power and once I got rid of my corny kegs, manual handling is not a problem! I have to say I was really pleased once I worked out how to put the shanks through the body and not use a collar!
    If you were building them commercially you would know where the cooling and heat transfer lines are (in mine it turned out they ran horizontally!)
    I think you could make a very attractive unit. But anyway way off topic now!
     
  5. enoch

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    Posted 25/1/19
    Curious what you are using instead.
    I’m pressure transferring from a kegmenter so could bypass the full keg lift.
    Another option?
     
  6. Kenf

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    Posted 26/1/19
    I use 10 litre and 5 litre mini kegs - got rid of the cornys. I now generally make smaller batches so I can experiment!
     
  7. Nullnvoid

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    Posted 26/1/19
    I was going to ask the same question. I just assumed you were just tipping the beer into the keezer directly and tapping it from that.

    Bit tricky for different styles all mixed together but I'm not one to judge!
     
    Kenf likes this.
  8. Kenf

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    Posted 26/1/19
    No not quite mate :)
     
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  9. malt and barley blues

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    Posted 11/2/19
    Went to see if I could get another kegerator bargain today for the holiday house, already got a font and tap spare. Did my usual pleading poor, pensioner bit, got them down to $299. Only stumbling block was, that was for 50.:( Anyone want 49.:) Please.
     
  10. Maheel

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    Posted 11/2/19
    i will take one delivered to BNE @$299
     
  11. malt and barley blues

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    Posted 12/2/19
    I was only joking, but I hadn't thought of a bulk buy, anyone interested in a bulk buy? Probably a bit late after the sales they have been having on the kegerators but worth a shot. Any other interstaters we could see if they will ship.
     
  12. d3vour3r

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    Posted 16/3/19
    What is everyone's thoughts on the door insulation? My KL4 condensates alot and it seems to fluctuate a but in temp. The brissy beast makes it struggle. I keep it outside on my balcony (covered).
    I think I'm going to get some formshield from Clark's rubber and put it on the door in the inside. Hopefully helps.
     
  13. Jack of all biers

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    Posted 17/3/19
    The series 4 does need the gas tube inlet stuffed with blue tac or similar to assist with insulating it, especially in humid climates like Brisbane. The font is another source of temperature exchange that is exposed. I have insulated my font with additional insulation (it is a KK [pre-KL], but they are the same) as per post #85 of this thread. It definitely makes a difference and I have just this week added more to some gaps in the top and bottom of the font and sealed it up with duct tap at the bottom as I noticed the bottom of the font was colder than the rest. The font is where I'd look prior to adding insulation to the door.

    EDIT - air getting in alot causes more condensation. So things like not plugging the gas inlet or opening the door often and letting in humid air won't help. Condensation on the outside of the fridge shouldn't be occurring (except the font, which the insulation trick minimises nicely). If that is what you are observing then something is amiss.
     
    Last edited: 17/3/19
  14. DrJez

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    Posted 18/3/19
    Geez you guys can crap on.. Starting to wonder if all members are actually a bunch of nannas. What happened to answering the question!? Lol. How long are everybody's beer lines on the series 4's?
     
  15. Nullnvoid

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    Posted 19/3/19
    We don't come here for serious answers.

    But in answer to your question I just cut mine down and I think they are about 1.5m long.

    I used a calculator I found online to give me the length. They might be too long still but I had such a slow pour and it's now betterer.
     
  16. bbqzookeeper

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    Posted 19/3/19
    Where else is there to go?

    Searching for Aussie Craft could take you to a paddlepop and glue store...
     
  17. Grmblz

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    Posted 20/3/19
    Hey it's not rocket science (as some would have you believe) first off it depends on the amount of carbonation you have in your beer, then what your pipe diameter is, and thirdly how long you are prepared to wait for that glass off goodness, be aware that commercialy we need to fill glasses as quickly as possible whilst retaining a decent head =$, you don't have that pressure (pun intended). Start with 2mtrs on your fizziest beer and if you get a glass of foam extend it to 3 mtrs or more (consider reducing the diameter of your pipes), if it takes forever then chop 500mm off and repeat, do not be surprised if you have a 1 mtr run or less for lightly carbonated ales and 2 mtrs ish for lagers/wheat beers etc. Balancing in a commercial enviornment is very different to what is required in a home keezer/whatever situation, decide what type of "beer" you're going to serve and the level of fizz you require then cut you line accordingly. Personally I use about 2 mtrs on everything except English ales (1 mtr and wait lol) better to wait a bit for the glass to fill than wait for the foam to subside, hope this helps. cheers G
     
  18. jollster101

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    Posted 26/3/19
    Hey Grmblz

    What ID are your lines to be running at 2M and 1M lengths respecitively?
     
  19. Grmblz

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    Posted 27/3/19
    They're all 4mm EVABarrier from kegland, be aware that different pipe material will have different flow resistance although I think this is only really relevant in a commercial setting where pipe runs are many mtr's long, so if you have some other pipe I doubt it will make much difference. Also if you have barbed tails swap them out for duo-tight/john guest type fittings it makes life a lot easier when fine tuning your pipe lengths. I've just measured my pipes and I have 1 @ 900mm (real ales 4-6 psi) 5 @ 2-2.5mtr's ish (everything else 12-15 psi) and a 3.5mtr for emergencies (overcarbed stuff ups) As I said before I much prefer a slightly slower pour than waiting for half a glass of foam to settle, just experiment by chopping off or adding 500mm at a time untill you get a pour that suits you and the style of beer you're serving, pipe is cheap compared to the beer that might be wasted. cheers G
     
  20. jollster101

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    Posted 27/3/19
    Cool, thanks.

    I am also using 4mm EVA Barrier from Kegland but don't have duotight or john guest fittings. At this stage unless there is a very cheap option to swap a barb for a compatible duo tight fitting I will just need to go with a trial and error solution as I don't want to have to replace all the shanks.

    I take it you must have a separate regulator to be running different pressures depending on whats in the keg.
     

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