Keg King Elements

[Diesel80]

I just watched the youtube video on the KK site with regard to these elements.
I'm sold enough to gamble on the new ones. Look more sturdy than my OTS element now.

Cheers.
D80

 

[Camo6]

Got home and stripped the insulation from my lead. The old unit I have is wired in 1.5mm2 so should have no troubles handling the current draw. The bulges in the flex turned out to be a kink in just the neutral wire so I suspect this was there from the start. The insulation looked intact with no deterioration. In my limited experience I'd say the cable isn't the issue but more likely water ingress or excessive heat transfer. Hopefully they've got this all sorted with the latest model.

 

[jonnir]

After having one blow and looking at the wiring. My element didn't blow at all. But the wiring was crap got damaged and then the + and - met. I've rewired and all good 3 brews in. When you look at the way they were put together, you see that any pulling at all on the power chord was pulling on the wire joins. Really shitful design. If you set up the five star the same, you'd probably have the same issues.

That's pretty much what I'm getting at. It's just the wiring that's average. If your going to get someone licensed in you may aswell upgrade your KK wiring

 

[jonnir]

Got home and stripped the insulation from my lead. The old unit I have is wired in 1.5mm2 so should have no troubles handling the current draw. The bulges in the flex turned out to be a kink in just the neutral wire so I suspect this was there from the start. The insulation looked intact with no deterioration. In my limited experience I'd say the cable isn't the issue but more likely water ingress or excessive heat transfer. Hopefully they've got this all sorted with the latest model.

What's the max current draw of 1.5mm? 16a?

 

[sp0rk]

Got home and stripped the insulation from my lead. The old unit I have is wired in 1.5mm2 so should have no troubles handling the current draw. The bulges in the flex turned out to be a kink in just the neutral wire so I suspect this was there from the start. The insulation looked intact with no deterioration. In my limited experience I'd say the cable isn't the issue but more likely water ingress or excessive heat transfer. Hopefully they've got this all sorted with the latest model.

This is what I've always said about the old elements
The cold zone was far too short, they weren't a sealed element and I doubt the spiral was made of Nichrome or Kanthal wire

 

[Camo6]

What's the max current draw of 1.5mm? 16a?

That's what I got. 16A for a 1.5mm2 flex cord according to my calculator.

I did notice the plastic base was resin filled and after prising it off the wire joins separated quite easily. Maybe hot joints contributing to the problem?

 

[QldKev]

In my non professional opinion. The issue is not the core size, it is the lack of the ability to allow the heat to vent. That rubber/resin/silicone housing they use does not allow the heat to dispatch, hence it builds up and melts ****. The 5 star ones comes in an open air housing, which is metal that conducts heat away.

 

[sp0rk]

In my non professional opinion. The issue is not the core size, it is the lack of the ability to allow the heat to vent. That rubber/resin/silicone housing they use does not allow the heat to dispatch, hence it builds up and melts ****. The 5 star ones comes in an open air housing, which is metal that conducts heat away.

If the cold zone is long enough, this shouldn't be an issue as the heat will be far enough away from the rubber/silicone
I know Thermal Electric Elements make a few elements with vulcanised rubber over the terminations and they never had problems with them

 

[Mikeyr]

Wow....done a lot of reading (and thanks Kev for the pm) on all this debate, I'm about to add a 2400w and a 3600w pair of elements to a 70l Craft brewer pot. Was going down the Camco path but 5 star seems only a few bucks more but well regarded.

A couple of questions

1) Stick vs foldback - any performance difference?
2) Is the guard worth the extra $40? Was planning of fixing to the kettle with a jiffy box etc.

And yes have a tame sparkie (new 10 and 15amp circuits installed last Saturday ....woohoo) and an electronics technician to help sort out all the wiring.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Camo6]

The stick type is easier to clean if being used in wort. They are also shorter in length which is why I used them in my HEX.

IMO the guard adds a real professional finish if that floats your boat. I'd avoid using the cover seal in case you get a leak inside the housing. Or drill a drain hole. Admittedly I didn't need the guard on my HEX as it's out of sight and a J box would've sufficed but in the end it worked well as it has a wider base which helped cover my 40mm hole.

 

[Adr_0]

Another one bites the dust. I actually bought a 2200W element from another supplier in June of last year. I was aware of the KK issues but thought this was a different element. Martin (HBHB) said unfortunately it is, but I gave it a few runs with the hope that it was one of the newer or more reliables ones.

After 6 brews and a few cleaning cycles, I was just preparing things last night to brew today and the breaker/RCD went. Made sure everything was dry - it was - and it went again. Earth leakage/fault, not over-current. Sure enough I was getting about 8.5kohm from the active/element to earth, which would be about 20-30mA. Still have continuity through the element (25ohm, what it should be).

The gasket on the 1" thread is intact and all this is sealed well, everything back to the junction box is dry/sealed which seems to leave just where the stick mates into the threaded bush with a small gap, per the attached photo:


Bugger. I was really looking forward to brewing today too.

 

[sp0rk]

Another one bites the dust. I actually bought a 2200W element from another supplier in June of last year. I was aware of the KK issues but thought this was a different element. Martin (HBHB) said unfortunately it is, but I gave it a few runs with the hope that it was one of the newer or more reliables ones.

After 6 brews and a few cleaning cycles, I was just preparing things last night to brew today and the breaker/RCD went. Made sure everything was dry - it was - and it went again. Earth leakage/fault, not over-current. Sure enough I was getting about 8.5kohm from the active/element to earth, which would be about 20-30mA. Still have continuity through the element (25ohm, what it should be).

The gasket on the 1" thread is intact and all this is sealed well, everything back to the junction box is dry/sealed which seems to leave just where the stick mates into the threaded bush with a small gap, per the attached photo:

kkelement.jpg

Bugger. I was really looking forward to brewing today too.

Is this the only report of a new element crapping out?
I need 2 new elements by next weekend, I can get a couple of keg king elements locally(ish) or actually make the effort to get some 5 Star ones shipped over
Just wondering if they actually made them decent

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Feeling good about my 5 star purchase again. Was starting to take them for granted!!! [emoji23]

 

[spog]

Is this the only report of a new element crapping out?
I need 2 new elements by next weekend, I can get a couple of keg king elements locally(ish) or actually make the effort to get some 5 Star ones shipped over
Just wondering if they actually made them decent

I contacted 5 star a week of two back and was told elements (3600 watt with guard ) won't be in stock until late June.
You maybe after something different so give them a ring,you might get lucky.

 

[sp0rk]

I contacted 5 star a week of two back and was told elements (3600 watt with guard ) won't be in stock until late June.
You maybe after something different so give them a ring,you might get lucky.

I'm getting the 2400w weldless
Sadly I don't have any 15A sockets, so I have to stick with 2400w, website says they have plenty in stock so I might order a couple today

 

[buckerooni]

alot pricier and need more ampage but a very slick unit - element with 1.5inch TC (tri clover): https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm

there's lower wattage optoins too, brewhardware also do DIY soldered TC flanges. Don't expect any bargains or cheap shipping however.

 

[Jase]

Hi there,

Has the general consensus on these elements changed or are these elements still an issue?

Cheers ,
Jase

 

[Maheel]

alot pricier and need more ampage but a very slick unit - element with 1.5inch TC (tri clover): https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm

there's lower wattage optoins too, brewhardware also do DIY soldered TC flanges. Don't expect any bargains or cheap shipping however.

i can see those lugs getting bent up in my brew shed if i removed the cord....

i hate dragging the cord on my 2400 and 3600 1" bsp screwin / backing nuts elements but they are easy and work

 

[MAX POWER]

Hi there,

Has the general consensus on these elements changed or are these elements still an issue?

Cheers ,
Jase

I've had no issues with mine, and this thread has certainly slowed down, so I dare say that they've improved. ...or no one uses them anymore (except me)

 

[Benn]

Newest model: My mate runs 2 in his rig on a average fortnightly basis. I was using 1 for a while. No issues thus far.