Herms Design

[fraser_john]

• T-pieces are for inclusion of thermocouples/sensors at inlet and outlet of heat exchange coil.
• 1/4" tube at bottom of HEX is for draining water after brew complete.
• Lid should be close fit so that any boiling of the water does not result in water splashing everywhere.
• Has 6.9cm of room at the top for inclusion of a float switch to prevent activation of heater element when water is not present or of insufficient level.
• Coil has vertical entry at bottom to assist in wort draining or cleaning solution drainage.

Anyone think of any other features that should be added before I send it for a quote?

 

[therook]

• T-pieces are for inclusion of thermocouples/sensors at inlet and outlet of heat exchange coil.
• 1/4" tube at bottom of HEX is for draining water after brew complete.
• Lid should be close fit so that any boiling of the water does not result in water splashing everywhere.
• Has 6.9cm of room at the top for inclusion of a float switch to prevent activation of heater element when water is not present or of insufficient level.
• Coil has vertical entry at bottom to assist in wort draining or cleaning solution drainage.

Anyone think of any other features that should be added before I send it for a quote?

Does this mean your old system will be for sale John


Rook

 

[fraser_john]

Does this mean your old system will be for sale John


Rook

On the assumption that I can get it cheap enough, the RIMS tube component certainly will be(minus the heater elements), yes.

 

[chappo1970]

FJ,

Perfect! Simply stunning would you be able to post up what the quote comes to please?

Cheers

 

[fraser_john]

FJ,

Perfect! Simply stunning would you be able to post up what the quote comes to please?

Cheers

Certainly will, might get cheaper if we get more buyers? Guess that is something I will ask when I send it through to them.

 

[browndog]

Hi FJ, I'm building something similar to this ATM using a fire extinguisher for the housing and 1/2" copper tube for the coil, the only difference is I don't have my coil entering though the bottom, it enters and exits though the sides. Looking at your measurements, I was wondering how they will get a coil that measures 115mm into the cylinder measuring 100mm? I was limited to this as it was impossible for me to get the coil in any other way.


cheers

Browndog

 

[fraser_john]

Hi FJ, I'm building something similar to this ATM using a fire extinguisher for the housing and 1/2" copper tube for the coil, the only difference is I don't have my coil entering though the bottom, it enters and exits though the sides. Looking at your measurements, I was wondering how they will get a coil that measures 115mm into the cylinder measuring 100mm? I was limited to this as it was impossible for me to get the coil in any other way.


cheers

Browndog

I have the coil diameter set to be 80mm outside diameter, giving 10mm either side inside the cylinder. No doubt copper would be far easier to work too, but I want mine all stainless so I can clean it with caustic.

 

[browndog]

I have the coil diameter set to be 80mm outside diameter, giving 10mm either side inside the cylinder. No doubt copper would be far easier to work too, but I want mine all stainless so I can clean it with caustic.

How will they join it once it is in the cylinder?

 

[3G]

I will take one if the price is not silly. Keen to get the HE all stainless.

 

[chappo1970]

How will they join it once it is in the cylinder?

Chinese people with teenie weenie hands... h34r:

I can understand the caustic thing but copper is a great conductor of temperature. That's what won me over in the end.

Cheers

Chappo

 

[fraser_john]

They can TIG weld it from the outside once its in the cylinder (I hope) <_<

 

[bigholty]

Have you found a heating element with a 1" NPT thread? From my experience, the smallest commonly available immersion element has a 1-1/4" BSP thread, might be worth checking this (if you haven't already). Also, you may want to consider getting them to TIG a bracket of some kind onto the unit to make mounting it easier down the track. Hope it goes well, it'll be a pearler when it's done!
Cheers, bigh.

 

[fraser_john]

Have you found a heating element with a 1" NPT thread? From my experience, the smallest commonly available immersion element has a 1-1/4" BSP thread, might be worth checking this (if you haven't already). Also, you may want to consider getting them to TIG a bracket of some kind onto the unit to make mounting it easier down the track. Hope it goes well, it'll be a pearler when it's done!
Cheers, bigh.

All three elements I currently use are 1", not NPT though, so they are a tight fit. Plumbing Supply I note that they don't ship to Australia, but I have family send them to me. Probably other places that you can get them though.

Mounting bracket is a good idea, I'll add that to the drawing tomorrow!

 

[browndog]

All three elements I currently use are 1", not NPT though, so they are a tight fit. Plumbing Supply I note that they don't ship to Australia, but I have family send them to me. Probably other places that you can get them though.

Mounting bracket is a good idea, I'll add that to the drawing tomorrow!

Stokes in melbourne sell 1" BSP elements, I have 3 of them.

 

[fraser_john]

Will totally have to revisit the design, the tightest stainlessstuff.net can coil 12.7mm stainless is 150mm, so that would make the overall diameter of the herms unit 170mm, which would also reduce the height significantly. Height is important as the electric element needs to stay submerged.

Browndog, does Stokes have a website? What is the length & wattage of your elements?

 

[AndrewQLD]

Will totally have to revisit the design, the tightest stainlessstuff.net can coil 12.7mm stainless is 150mm, so that would make the overall diameter of the herms unit 170mm, which would also reduce the height significantly. Height is important as the electric element needs to stay submerged.

Browndog, does Stokes have a website? What is the length & wattage of your elements?

They sell them here too elements

Andrew

 

[fraser_john]

They sell them here too elements

Andrew

Thanks Andrew!

Looks like a cylinder height of at least 400mm would cover most of the screw-in elements listed. Would add about 6cm above that for installation of a float switch and allow room for any potential boil in the HERMS cylinder.

Also, was told that just the stainless coil alone would be around US$100 including shipping! Add some fittings and the cylinder and we might be looking at US$200 for one of these units.

 

[technocat]

Will totally have to revisit the design, the tightest stainlessstuff.net can coil 12.7mm stainless is 150mm,

Yes I went thought this exercise with Emanuel and if you are looking at the coil tails coming off at right angles ie: through the side of the of the HE you will need some clearance around 40-50mm to fit the coil up for welding through the HE wall.


View attachment 30728 like this without the fittings on the end naturally

 

[browndog]

Will totally have to revisit the design, the tightest stainlessstuff.net can coil 12.7mm stainless is 150mm, so that would make the overall diameter of the herms unit 170mm, which would also reduce the height significantly. Height is important as the electric element needs to stay submerged.

Browndog, does Stokes have a website? What is the length & wattage of your elements?

www.stokes-aus.com.au they have a good pdf file to download that has all the specs of the elements they sell.

 

[fraser_john]

After a few emails with Manu at stainlessstuff.net I have changed the design to suit his bending capabilities. The HERMS cylinder is tall enough to fit all but the very longest and highest powered elements available from places here in Australia. Fittings are now all BSP instead of NPT.