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Thanks Fourstar. I'm surprised it comes out that cheap. Last time I did a look up on this I was in the hundreds for the parts alone of the PID route.
I may start with a spare STC-1000 as I have one on my fridge and HLT, and move to PID in the future.

Cheers
 
Hey fourstar, would you mind showing a photo of how you mounted the probe? 8cm sounds like too long to place it in a T piece at the outlet. Cheers
 
Done the research for you. ;)

hardware you need you need if you want to go the PID route. Less 50 bucks. Add on some wiring, jiffy box, terminals. pushing $55-60.

k type thermocouple
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Type-Thermocu...=item231c1f16be
PID
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-PID-Tem...=item19d0063c01
SSR
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR25A-SOLID-ST...=item519b0ba368

STC route with the jiffy box, wiring and terminals. $35-40~
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/All-purpose-Tem...=item3a70aaf9d5

STC is looking like its 20 bucks cheaper although i don't know how good the control of temp is. You can get a PID control period down to 1/2 sec compared with 1 min 'compressor delay' on the STC. Shouldn't be too mush of and issue i would think.

One thing i do know, after calibrating and dialling in the PID, I'm glad i went with it. It never overshoots and holds it within 1 deg for the length of the mash once stable.

Thanks or that info mate. Im considering a PID to (Currently have an STC ) but wasnt sure what exactly to buy.
 
I'm really not impressed with using K thermocouples for brewing purposes - the temperature reading can vary (become wildly inaccurate) too much depending on the temperature of the PID unit itself (with these cheapo chinese ones). Also you can't simply extend the wires if the probe is too short, as the junction between your wires and the thermocouple wires tend to make another thermocouple.

I'd go with PT100 probes if possible. You'd have to get a controller that supports them.

You can get a nice stainless probe with threaded attachment cheaply enough.
 
Done the research for you. ;)

hardware you need you need if you want to go the PID route. Less 50 bucks. Add on some wiring, jiffy box, terminals. pushing $55-60.

k type thermocouple
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Type-Thermocu...=item231c1f16be
PID
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-PID-Tem...=item19d0063c01
SSR
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR25A-SOLID-ST...=item519b0ba368

STC route with the jiffy box, wiring and terminals. $35-40~
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/All-purpose-Tem...=item3a70aaf9d5

STC is looking like its 20 bucks cheaper although i don't know how good the control of temp is. You can get a PID control period down to 1/2 sec compared with 1 min 'compressor delay' on the STC. Shouldn't be too mush of and issue i would think.

One thing i do know, after calibrating and dialling in the PID, I'm glad i went with it. It never overshoots and holds it within 1 deg for the length of the mash once stable.


you may want to put a heat sink on the SSR
 
A PID uses calculus that factors in temp rise/fall speeds to allow far greater accuracy and prevent overshooting targets etc. It is a superior choice, but an stc1000 is adequate and acceptable for most and even I was able to wire one up, so the choice is easy if you have the skill to wire and program a PID and equally as easy if you don't.
"autotune makes things really easy". ;)

Hey fourstar, would you mind showing a photo of how you mounted the probe? 8cm sounds like too long to place it in a T piece at the outlet. Cheers
I don't have mine set-up into a fitting just yet (currently jammed into the end of the silicone return to the mash) but the plan is to get a compression fitting on the outlet of the hermit, Stainless T piece for the probe (thermowell maybe) and a nipple for the outlet silicone to MLT/kettle.

I'm really not impressed with using K thermocouples for brewing purposes - the temperature reading can vary (become wildly inaccurate) too much depending on the temperature of the PID unit itself (with these cheapo chinese ones). Also you can't simply extend the wires if the probe is too short, as the junction between your wires and the thermocouple wires tend to make another thermocouple.

I'd go with PT100 probes if possible. You'd have to get a controller that supports them.

You can get a nice stainless probe with threaded attachment cheaply enough.

Interesting, thanks for the advice. Mine actually supports PT100 so might go down the route of one of these connected in-line as mentioned above.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?V...;category=67003

I also have a spare PID which i purchased some time ago and was refunded because they sent me the relay only model (5A). I can use the K-type on that one. It never hurts to have a few spare thermocouples lying around in the event of catastrophic failure! ;)
 
I just went to a place called Univer off Greens road in Dandenong and scored myself a push on fitting with 1/2 " BSP to screw onto my T for my probe.

On the wall they had a chart and do a whole range of push on fittings.

UNIVER

Mine was only $7.60 but I paid cash and he just charged me $5.00.

Are they made for stainless tubing or for plastic hoses? QldKev tried using push on fittings and they weren't too successful as they kept falling off.
 
Are they made for stainless tubing or for plastic hoses? QldKev tried using push on fittings and they weren't too successful as they kept falling off.


I think they are for plastic hose. But I meant to replace JG fittings on your beer lines. I dont keg so dont know much about it all, but was just throwing it out there in case anyone was interested.
 
And.... I meant more so for the temp probe and not for the coil itself.

Just sharing some ideas for the greater good..

pushon.JPG
 
Anyone who needs a couple of those high temp silicone seals to attach their herms to the compression fittings pm me, I have a few left....
 
I don't think that bev line will handle high temp though
 
noob question but wont the hottest point be just out of the exchanger? Isnt that the best place for it?

:icon_cheers:
 

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