GUTEN

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Fro-Daddy

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I put all my water in the kettle, heat to a few degrees above desired temp, complete water treatment and then take out what won't fit and put it in a cube.
This can be up to 10L but is generally less than that.
The 70L Guten can take about 60L in the mash without getting messy or awkward to manage.

My last batch I had to use a mates mill because mine was being poo, MashMaster Mini with fluted rollers, no idea on the gap sorry.
I've now bought a new mill so it might take a batch or two to get it where I like.
 

bird

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I've just done my 4th triple batch it the 70lt and consistently get 80percent. I do a big sparge though of about 35lts from a hlt. I am finding it a bit stressful doing the boil with 67lts in the guten though as it leaves very little head space and was wondering if it would be OK to leave out 5lts from the sparge and boil 62lts of wort and then add 5lts of boiling water After the boil to get me to my final volume thus giving me the extra head space during the boil To avoid any possible boil overs. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
 

bird

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Will give it a try and see If it affects efficiency otherwise I'll give the conditioner a go. Thanks
 

JDB

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I've just done my 4th triple batch it the 70lt and consistently get 80percent. I do a big sparge though of about 35lts from a hlt. I am finding it a bit stressful doing the boil with 67lts in the guten though as it leaves very little head space and was wondering if it would be OK to leave out 5lts from the sparge and boil 62lts of wort and then add 5lts of boiling water After the boil to get me to my final volume thus giving me the extra head space during the boil To avoid any possible boil overs. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
I’ve even decanted our 10l into a cube before it hits boil and reintroduced once the initial boil surge is over. Especially when I’m trying to get 44 l Out of my 50l unit. Seems to work just fine
 

dibbz

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Withhold a few liters from the sparge, or just go 2 handed with a spray bottle and paddle to keep it under control for the first 5 min.
 

PTG

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I get between 80% and 85% mash eff all the time. Don’t stir the bed and make sure pump is turned down not to flow down O/flow pipe. OG’s are usually around 1.050 and only sparge with 5L to rinse the bed otherwise treat it as BIAB. Thats on a 40L looking at getting the 70L as im wanting to fill more kegs as brew days are hard to find.
I assumed i was entering (Beersmith) data incorrectly and have checked many times all looks good.
 
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I get between 80% and 85% mash eff all the time. Don’t stir the bed and make sure pump is turned down not to flow down O/flow pipe. OG’s are usually around 1.050 and only sparge with 5L to rinse the bed otherwise treat it as BIAB. Thats on a 40L looking at getting the 70L as im wanting to fill more kegs as brew days are hard to find.
I assumed i was entering (Beersmith) data incorrectly and have checked many times all looks good.
I have stirred the last few brews now and efficiency has increased, I do full volume no sparge, my next brew will be minus the overflow pipe, its a bit like an appendix never gets used just sits there.
I did see on the German site Hobby Brauer a guy who had fitted a motor/gearbox over the top of his mash tun with a rake, though I do like to fiddle with things like that I will probably just stick with the paddle.
 

Grok

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Did a brew the other day, all was going well when suddenly lights out in the Guten on ramp up to boil at about 85C, no warning, just complete lights out, no power to controller or pump.....WTF !...... so back up plan enacted, grabbed my newly acquired hang over the side bucket immersion heater, and plumbed in a spare 240v pump to circulate from the digiboil to the Guten, as I essentially run 2 kettles for bigger volumes, and got things back on track, not ideal, but saved the day, well worth the investment as a back up tool, and handy anyway.
Bucket heater.JPGThermostat controller.JPG

After investigation, it turns out there is a sneaky little inline thermal fuse rated at 227 degrees Celsius 10 amp on the main power wire hiding under some white heat shielding wrap from the thermal cut-out button to the main power switch, that also supplies the pump switch power, and this had failed cutting all the power coming in.
Thermal fuse.JPGThermal fuse1.JPG
Now I carefully inspected every thing in this compartment, and could not see any evidence of excessively high temps, so my conclusion is it just failed, not sure why they have it as the thermal cut-out disc in the same area is rated at about 150C would probably be adequate.
Replaced wire- Brown.JPG
I have replaced this wire with a decent thick gauge wire (Brown wire) and no thermal fuse and all is good again, but bringing this incident to everyone's attention so as to preempt a future WTF ! moment half way through a brew. I had a plan C as well, gas burner with an old keg kettle that I use as a sparge tank with the bucket heater and a cheap thermostat arrangement, like the Inkbird, but cheaper.

I always like a back up plan or two, and this strategy paid off to get me through the day, something to think about!
 
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goatchop41

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Hi, how are these jackets coming along?

edit: Guten 70L jackets, referring to your post from 6 weeks ago
I enquired about 40L jackets earlier in the week - they didn't give me any sort of definitive answer, and sort of said that it might be another 4-8 weeks
 

dibbz

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@Fro-Daddy Yes, my lid is smaller than the urn part, so you can't seal it without one end popping up, which is critical for its other use.
 

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