GUTEN

[Mya]

Have done 3 batches in the guten now. First batch we did the common mistake of putting the bottom mesh upside down and the mash fell down through into the lower chamber. Instructions are woefully inadequate here as has been mentioned before.

Second batch I messed up my strike water volume (added 1 pail too many) so had to boil it down for ages.

Third batch I was trying to determine the minimum strike water to add (for the 40L version). 18L couldn't even get a fluidised bed, 20L seemed OK initially but I found that the bottom chamber must have run fairly dry as the temp was swinging from 62 to 67 quite quickly and the pump was cavitating a little from the low suction head pressure, put another 2L down the overflow pipe and all was well. Hit perfect OG and fermenter volume regardless. So I think 22L is the minimum strike water volume to use. I didn't use rice hulls so that may have helped. I got a stuck sparge as well due to initially only using 20L of water I assume, so will check next time if 22L is enough to prevent a stuck sparge.

Got a big condensation problem because I'm brewing in the basement laundry with no windows anywhere near. Initially using a fan to blow out into my woodworking shop but that isn't ideal either. Thinking about making a fitted lid from a steel mixing bowl and having some ventilation ducting with an extractor fan at the end to suck the steam out, I'm only worried about either melting the extraction fan or inducing too much pressure drop and subsequently not being able to remove all the steam/DMS.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Got a big condensation problem because I'm brewing in the basement laundry with no windows anywhere near. Initially using a fan to blow out into my woodworking shop but that isn't ideal either. Thinking about making a fitted lid from a steel mixing bowl and having some ventilation ducting with an extractor fan at the end to suck the steam out, I'm only worried about either melting the extraction fan or inducing too much pressure drop and subsequently not being able to remove all the steam/DMS.

I have seen that done on a Brau Meister so it is possible.

 

[Ballaratguy]

Mya I read your post with interest. I’m just about to put my (brend new) Guten together to boil up some cleaner and to then make a brew
Which way is the correct way to put in the bottom screen?
It looks like you have the presses rim facing down going by the pic in the manual!

 

[Mya]

The middle of the screen should be vertically higher than the outside edge of the screen, so that when you apply force to the screen this pushes outwards on the vessel. The other way around, the mesh screen will just collapse inwards from the weight.

 

[Ballaratguy]

Thanks May that sounds logical
Thanks for the quick reply

 

[wide eyed and legless]

What a 23 litre batch looks like at full volume, I think this is as far as it will go.


Used fermcap for the first time today, not an inkling of a boil over .

 

[Mya]

Hey weal I think I got the same stainless mixing bowl as you to make a boil vent lid, do you attach the kettle lip to the lid lip in any way, or do you just rest it there?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Hey weal I think I got the same stainless mixing bowl as you to make a boil vent lid, do you attach the kettle lip to the lid lip in any way, or do you just rest it there?

I put 4 long pop rivets equally spaced around the rim, protruding enough so they sit inside the rim of the Guten, I brew outside and hasn't blown off yet.

 

[Ballaratguy]

I put 4 long pop rivets equally spaced around the rim, protruding enough so they sit inside the rim of the Guten, I brew outside and hasn't blown off yet.

I’ll also have to investigate that bowl/lid idea as I’m about to setup my “brewery” in a garden shed and thought I may even vent the outlet pipe to the outside

 

[Reg Holt]

I brew on a herms but have been toying with the idea of a single vessel unit to give me a bit more space, after reading most of this thread I think I am now sold on the Guten.

 

[FarsideOfCrazy]

I brew on a herms but have been toying with the idea of a single vessel unit to give me a bit more space, after reading most of this thread I think I am now sold on the Guten.

I'd wait for the PID model, (if it is coming). The temp control on my 40 litre was terrible, over and under shot 3c. I've replaced the controller with a smart PID and now it's within .2-.3c fluctuation.

 

[Reg Holt]

I'd wait for the PID model, (if it is coming). The temp control on my 40 litre was terrible, over and under shot 3c. I've replaced the controller with a smart PID and now it's within .2-.3c fluctuation.

Sounds interesting, I shall make some inquiries, presuming it is from the same importer as the Guten. I am in no hurry if something like that is not to far away.

 

[FarsideOfCrazy]

Weal mentioned it earlier in this thread somewhere

 

[Reg Holt]

Weal mentioned it earlier in this thread somewhere

 

[wide eyed and legless]

True there is a PID model coming soon but not I believe like the Guten, more like a Grainfather .
I have checked my Guten temperature and it does not drift far off the mark, I wonder if insulation of the return pipe may be an advantage, as there seems to be more drift in the winter than the summer.

 

[krz]

I checked the temp o the Guten the last brew using a Thermapen, which is very accurate.
The target mash temp (65C) was exactly the same. At the start of the mash, I saw the temp rise to 68C, before coming back to 65 a couple of times.
I have 2 theories for this:-
1. The wattage is too high, I now set to 1600W on the 50L Guten.
2. Too much flow in the recirculation pump, slow down the rate.

 

[FarsideOfCrazy]

I tried different wattages 800, 1000, 1500, it didn't make any difference, i still got over/ under shoots. I've got the vessel wrapped in a camping mat which helped hold the temp better in winter.

With the flow, i just had it set to whatever was going through the bed.

 

[krz]

I tried different wattages 800, 1000, 1500, it didn't make any difference, i still got over/ under shoots. I've got the vessel wrapped in a camping mat which helped hold the temp better in winter.

With the flow, i just had it set to whatever was going through the bed.

Did you try adjusting the flow rate on the recirc? <---- Maybe this is the correct theory
i.e. Dont let it pump fully

 

[Reg Holt]

What you have to remember is, it is a thermal switch in the Guten, if the variant is only a couple of degrees and only for less than a minute or two then it isn't going to matter much. Using a PID will give better accuracy, but in home brewing there are so many variables we would find it difficult ( nigh impossible) to get every step of the procedure perfect.
Would it make any difference on which wattage it is set, I am no electrical engineer but I would not have thought so, it is just a mechanical switch which cuts in and out with the temperature variants.
From what I have read in this thread, and it is important on all recirculating SVB's is to maintain a full volume beneath the grain basket so the adjustment to the flow should be made keeping that in mind.
Insulating the return pipe, possibly would make a slight difference, but I wouldn't think there is going to be much heat exchanged through the exposure of the pipe to the atmospheric conditions.
All in all from what I have read it does seem to tick the boxes, obviously a PID will improve it, but I don't know if the extra cost is practical for the application.

 

[Mya]

Wattage will affect the swing as it has a minimum "on" time and more watts = more heat. I mash at 800w. Also unfortunately the temp probe is right next to the element so temps will be different between your mash and element albeit only a couple degrees.

I mentioned in an earlier post, if your water volume in the bottom chamber is low you'll get big temp swings, I had this. The more water the more stable. Try mashing in with more water, also rice hulls might make the bed drain easier allowing higher circulation and thus more stable temps. I'm going to try rice hulls next brew.

Even still, I only get about 1.5 degrees drift at most and it's usually low not high. Hitting exact temps isn't that critical since the enzyme reactions occur in very wide temp ranges (ie 63-69 does much the same). Obviously if you're a microbrewery trying to perfect a commercial recipe you'll want it exact but for homebrew there are so many other factors that can influence.