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Ballaratguy

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I also don’t use the top screen (easier to stir during the mash)
I use a helix coil on the tap so I use the bazooka on the overflow pipe just for insurance
I always seen to get pretty good efficiency
But each to his (or her) own
 

Cian Doyle

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I don't use the top screen, I would be surprised if many do. Just started eliminating the return pipe from the mash tun simply to make it easier to stir. I would advise using the new style bottom screen though, I managed to dislodge the old screen while stirring.:(
 

soulcash

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Hey guys!

Guten 70l is 40,5 cm in diameter, and Brewzilla 65l is 41 cm in diameter. Did somebody try or know if Brewzilla 65l false bottom / pump filter fits Guten 70l?

Thanks!
 

goatchop41

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Hey guys!

Guten 70l is 40,5 cm in diameter, and Brewzilla 65l is 41 cm in diameter. Did somebody try or know if Brewzilla 65l false bottom / pump filter fits Guten 70l?

Thanks!
Several people have done it - it needs to be cut down to size so that it will fit
 
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I wouldn't advise anyone who has just got a SVB to remove the return pipe until they get to know their system, and understand why its there, and to be able to control the flow without using the return pipe. As Ballarat Guy says it is there for insurance, and not to be implemented as part of the brewing process.
 

golfandbrew

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I wouldn't advise anyone who has just got a SVB to remove the return pipe until they get to know their system, and understand why its there, and to be able to control the flow without using the return pipe. As Ballarat Guy says it is there for insurance, and not to be implemented as part of the brewing process.
I think telling a new SVB user to remove the overflow pipe and watch over their mash is much less risky that what many users will do with the return pipe in. I see too many videos and posts where users start their mash then "go make breakfast" or whatever else. Somewhere along the way SVB became this almost set it and forget method. Maybe that's also got something to do with electric brewing. Not sure really. But anything that gives the user the confidence to not to watch what is going on with their brew is far more risky in my opinion.
 
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I think telling a new SVB user to remove the overflow pipe and watch over their mash is much less risky that what many users will do with the return pipe in. I see too many videos and posts where users start their mash then "go make breakfast" or whatever else. Somewhere along the way SVB became this almost set it and forget method. Maybe that's also got something to do with electric brewing. Not sure really. But anything that gives the user the confidence to not to watch what is going on with their brew is far more risky in my opinion.
Probably comes from the BM which doesn't really leave anything for the brewer to do during the mash. But I do think it is better for a new user to understand why the overflow pipe is there. I still had mine in an stirred until I realised I was installing something each brew day which would never fulfill its purpose.
 

kadmium

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Expected in on the 21st of this month.
Any update on a false bottom for Gutens? I just bought a MK II pump to try and alleviate my whirpooling issues but a false bottom to keep hops and trub away would be great. Just a simple SS mesh with some legs on it. Nothing fancy.
 

mynameisrodney

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Yes. They will cut in and out more if you have it on a lower wattage - it's just the duty cycle, that's how they work when you run it at a lower wattage than the maximum. Eg. if you run it at half power then it will be on half of the time and off half of the time
I'm looking to buy a 70L Guten. At the moment I dont have a 15A power socket, so was hoping to use one of those amphibian 15A to 10A converters for 6 months or so until I get some renovations done. Based on the info above it sounds like that wont work. If the wattage is just controlled by duty cycle, then as soon as the elements are on the breaker will trip. Can anyone confirm or deny that this is how it works? Or anyone used one of those Amphibian converters with a gutn 70L before?

Also I was trying to find the volume of the recoverable dead space under the malt pipe for the 70L, and the height of hte malt pipe itself. Can anyone help me with those measurements?

Cheers,
Chris
 

kadmium

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Those amphibians are not really going to do the job to be honest. Not sure if it alters the duty cycle or not, but you will spend a LONG time heating water. My understanding is that a 15amp socket is all that's needed to be replaced. You should be able to just have the socket replaced where you intend to brew from, as most modern domestic circuits will run the 15amp draw (it's a resistive load) its just the socket that has the standard earth pin.

Dead space I'm unsure of sorry.
 

mynameisrodney

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My house is 40 years old, and the spot where I brew is on the same circuit as a bunch of other GPOs, so I doubt I'll be able to safely just replace the socket. If I want getting renovations done I would put a new circuit in now, but they'll be adding more cable to the same spot in 6 months or so, so no point paying twice.

The way I am currently brewing the slow heating time wont really be an issue for me. I set up the night prior with a timer to start heating water so its ready for 7am. Then I mash in and go to work. Come home about 5:30pm, pull the brew bag and start heating up to boil at about 1000W. ~7:30pm when kids are in bed I start my boil. So my equipment is sitting around for a long time between steps already. I do it this way so I can keep weekends free for family and other hobbies. I'm actually pretty happy with the system I have, but I want to do more double batches and higher gravity beers which is where I struggle.

Cheers,
Chris
 

kadmium

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My house is 40 years old, and the spot where I brew is on the same circuit as a bunch of other GPOs, so I doubt I'll be able to safely just replace the socket. If I want getting renovations done I would put a new circuit in now, but they'll be adding more cable to the same spot in 6 months or so, so no point paying twice.

The way I am currently brewing the slow heating time wont really be an issue for me. I set up the night prior with a timer to start heating water so its ready for 7am. Then I mash in and go to work. Come home about 5:30pm, pull the brew bag and start heating up to boil at about 1000W. ~7:30pm when kids are in bed I start my boil. So my equipment is sitting around for a long time between steps already. I do it this way so I can keep weekends free for family and other hobbies. I'm actually pretty happy with the system I have, but I want to do more double batches and higher gravity beers which is where I struggle.

Cheers,
Chris
Yeah thats a fair point there. Great idea to mashing all day, why not? Very smart.

Aight, another option would be to run an extension cable from the oven outlet to your brewery if that's possible? Might not have a 15amp circuit there though, but might be lucky?

Otherwise as a last resort yes an amphibian should work as long as the power consumption is not full power less time. I don't think it is, its digitally adjusted but someone with more knowledge could expand further!
 

mynameisrodney

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Good idea on the oven outlet, I'll see if its possible to string something up that's not too annoying for the wife.

The all day mashes work great but I do get higher attenuation. For most beers this is fine for me, but I recently brewed a NEIPA this way and it was too thin bodied, so I'll go back to a normal mash for this style or others where you want a higher FG.
 

mynameisrodney

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FYI I got a response from Keg King that the unit will still trip a 10A breaker at low power settings.
 

Fergy1987

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Just wondering what wattage does everyone mash at? I was mashing at 1000 to 1200 and now hear of people mashing at 200w. Thoughts?
 

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