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Keg King

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Just wondering what wattage does everyone mash at? I was mashing at 1000 to 1200 and now hear of people mashing at 200w. Thoughts?
All kind of depends on your batch size, ambient temps, whether or not you use an insulation jacket and mash thickness. You'll find a good spot where you can maintain the temp with the lid on recirculating and then adjust the power. Some brewers do the sacrification rest without recirculating after seating the mash. Most prefer to recirculate though out the process up until preboil.
 

golfandbrew

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Just wondering what wattage does everyone mash at? I was mashing at 1000 to 1200 and now hear of people mashing at 200w. Thoughts?
Been a while since I checked my settings but I'm pretty sure mine is set at 1200 or 1500. I do heat my strike water at max though. I tried as high as 1800 for the maah and thought that was a bit much. Interested to hear what others are doing.
 

kadmium

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I heat at 2500w then drop to 1000w unless it's a big grain bill or I'm mashing high. That's using a jacket.
 

Fro-Daddy

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I put the jacket on my 70L tonight, very snug fit. I had to loosen the recirculation pipe to get it on.
Would be a pain to remove when chilling.
 

wide eyed and legless

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I mash at 1700 watt, checking the temperature coming out of the return pipe it was 2 to 3 C lower than indicated on the screen. Also started checking the temperature against the screen for each brew, and re calibrating, a few brews ago it was out by 3 C the 60 litre Hop Cat was 5 C out. Not a big deal to check when setting up for a brew.
Also secured the bottom screen into position, twice it has lifted, well it won't lift now.
 

Cian Doyle

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Any updates on the false bottom for the 70L?
Was down in Melbourne last week popped into KK yesterday to get some grain, saw them in the shop, the guy serving said they came in Friday.

I picked up these when I was there, sick of cleaning the blow tie so I am going to replace it with one of these. Saves worrying about my pressure gauge too.
Any one else tried them yet, the Blue is 69 kpa Purple 103 kpa or 10 and 15 PSI in the old money.
Going to set them up on my Snubnose.
001.JPG
 

goatchop41

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Was down in Melbourne last week popped into KK yesterday to get some grain, saw them in the shop, the guy serving said they came in Friday
Unfortunately they're still out of stock on the website...they obviously haven't updated it yet (that's the ones for the 40/50L)
 

wide eyed and legless

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I picked up these when I was there, sick of cleaning the blow tie so I am going to replace it with one of these. Saves worrying about my pressure gauge too.
Any one else tried them yet, the Blue is 69 kpa Purple 103 kpa or 10 and 15 PSI in the old money.
Going to set them up on my Snubnose.
View attachment 119832
Now that does make a lot of sense, saves a lot of room too. I suppose if one wanted less pressure then a trim of the spring or a replacement spring for that matter. I expect they are a very cheap alternative to the spunding valves and gauges out there.
 

goatchop41

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Now that does make a lot of sense, saves a lot of room too. I suppose if one wanted less pressure then a trim of the spring or a replacement spring for that matter. I expect they are a very cheap alternative to the spunding valves and gauges out there.
Much less safe as well.
There are plenty of examples of people in FB brewing groups and forums who blame the manufacturer or quality of their pressure fermenting vessel for it exploding (several users on this forum, in particular, who seem to make a point of posting every single one that they see), yet once they're questioned about the circumstances it becomes clear that they were relying on the PRV to vent pressure, and the PRV has failed (stuck, etc.). It's just a bad idea
 

wide eyed and legless

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Much less safe as well.
There are plenty of examples of people in FB brewing groups and forums who blame the manufacturer or quality of their pressure fermenting vessel for it exploding (several users on this forum, in particular, who seem to make a point of posting every single one that they see), yet once they're questioned about the circumstances it becomes clear that they were relying on the PRV to vent pressure, and the PRV has failed (stuck, etc.). It's just a bad idea
I have never read of a PRV failing, what has been failing is the units themselves even as low as 10 PSI. The pressure in those Fermzilla's have never got to the activating pressure of the PRV before failing.
Also if it was the case, which it isn't, of people relying on the PRV to vent an over pressurised unit, that would mean the Blowtie or whatever other spunding valve was failing also.
 

Keg King

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Much less safe as well.
There are plenty of examples of people in FB brewing groups and forums who blame the manufacturer or quality of their pressure fermenting vessel for it exploding (several users on this forum, in particular, who seem to make a point of posting every single one that they see), yet once they're questioned about the circumstances it becomes clear that they were relying on the PRV to vent pressure, and the PRV has failed (stuck, etc.). It's just a bad idea
If the PRV arrangement is badly designed then this will definitely cause problems. Its one of the reasons why you should only choose PET tanks that have the ability to go above 5 bar also. Once the pressure gets really high the yeast action dies right off. Sadly there are products out there which are exploding at much lower pressures than that. Its one of the reasons why we went to a lot of effort to make the strongest tanks and show them off lifting a loaded ute. Not seen any other supplier able to match this.

Obviously cleaning the PRV and checking it should be standard procedure for anyone pressure fermenting. Also make sure when you purchase something that the PRV orifice is not too small. We have seen units with really small holes which can become a problem as they don't allow gas to escape quickly enough if someone makes a mistake with a regulator.
 
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