Ghetto Braumeister - Biab W/ Controller

[Bizier]

OK,

Seeing as my three tier build seems to be a little on the backburner until my new job is settled in, I have taken it on myself to start on my Ghettomeister build.

Yesterday I got:
19L pot from Big W - $19
15L pot from Kmart - $15
2 Ball valves from Bunnings - ~$5 ea
Female T piece, M nipple, 2 hosetails from Tradelink - ~$11
2 backnuts from Reece - $12 (criminal IMO)

most everything else I have on hand:
Element
Pump
PID
PT100 probe
SSR
All-thread pipe
Compression fittings and olives
I should have some 12mm copper for a pickup

I will still need some little bits and bobs, but the vast majority is sorted:
Possibly an RCD
Switches and light
12v 0.5A power supply for pump
Enclosure
Insulation

This morning's progress:
Note that the common SS sheathed element only just fits into the 19L pot - once the nut is tightened to compress the silicone washer, it just frees up the other end of the element to allow it to wiggle. I had to shoehorn this thing in.

I installed the probe over the element in an attempt to measure the hottest part of the liquor, these were placed as low as possible in the kettle. The handles on the 15L pot magically just clear the probe, which is nice. I am unsure what the mash solids and liquids capacity will be yet. I figure I should get 9L (half keg) finished volume of decent gravity pretty easily using this setup, which will allow for some experimentation. Because I am drawing from the liquor reserve and pumping into the mash, it should mean that if the mash gets stuck, it should just overflow the top vessel back down into the reserve again without starving the pump. I am considering drilling a hole either side, between the handles to force it to drain from a clean point in the event of an overflow.

I am still deciding whether to continue searching for perforated stainless, just drill a million holes in the base, or rely on an inner bag for particle regulation. That is basically a decending list of my preference.

 

[keifer33]

That is looking sweet Bizier, will have to check it out in action once you've got it all up and running, get my head around some of this automation stuff. Then order all the parts if yours works out

 

[Tim F]

Because I am drawing from the liquor reserve and pumping into the mash, it should mean that if the mash gets stuck, it should just overflow the top vessel back down into the reserve again without starving the pump. I am considering drilling a hole either side, between the handles to force it to drain from a clean point in the event of an overflow.

I am still deciding whether to continue searching for perforated stainless, just drill a million holes in the base, or rely on an inner bag for particle regulation. That is basically a decending list of my preference.

We're thinking along the same lines! I am going to drill a hole just below the level of the outer pot in case of stuck mash.

I called around a few local metal suppliers and noone would sell me a piece of perforated stainless with the right size holes unless I got a 1m2 sheet for $300 odd. I am either drilling the pot or else cutting out the bottom of the pot and riveting in a piece of stainless that I drilled myself but like you say there is a shitload of holes required. If it wasn't for having access to a cnc router I wouldn't consider it.

2 other ideas I thought about - either cut slots in the pot bottom with an angle grinder, or cut out the bottom and just use fly screen style mesh?

Are you going to recirc during/after the boil to whirlpool or chill? If so what are you planning to stop hops going through the pump? I'm thinking of having the grain pot sit on another false bottom in the kettle - then I could put an element under the FB too.

 

[matho]

RS components sells 0.5m x 0.5m 0.55mm thick 3mm perf 304 Stainless steel sheet for $60 each unfortunately the minimum order is 2

RS components

the good thing is free delivery australia wide

Looks good bizier, i must have missed your post, you have got to love those 19l pots

cheers matho

 

[aaronpetersen]

We're thinking along the same lines! I am going to drill a hole just below the level of the outer pot in case of stuck mash.

I called around a few local metal suppliers and noone would sell me a piece of perforated stainless with the right size holes unless I got a 1m2 sheet for $300 odd. I am either drilling the pot or else cutting out the bottom of the pot and riveting in a piece of stainless that I drilled myself but like you say there is a shitload of holes required. If it wasn't for having access to a cnc router I wouldn't consider it.

2 other ideas I thought about - either cut slots in the pot bottom with an angle grinder, or cut out the bottom and just use fly screen style mesh?

Are you going to recirc during/after the boil to whirlpool or chill? If so what are you planning to stop hops going through the pump? I'm thinking of having the grain pot sit on another false bottom in the kettle - then I could put an element under the FB too.

I've been thinking about using one of those stainless steel fry pan splatter guards as a hop screen/false bottom. I reckon you could also use one on the bottom of your inner vessel. Just cut the bottom of the inner vessel out and leave a lip for the splatter guard to sit on. You may need to reinforce the splatter guard as they may not be strong enough to support the weight of the grain when you lift out the inner vessel.

 

[Florian]

That's exactly what I would do. You get them for a few bucks from ikea or kmart and they are pretty strong, but maybe a bit of strong wire to support could help. They would fit well into matho's malt pipe design (in his thread).
I think I had once linked to a german forum (in the impressive? Yes... Thread) where they used the ikea ones on the original BM instead of the fabric filter.
I have two lying around but haven't used them yet.

 

[Tim F]

If you used a mesh screen like that you could just drill or even jigsaw big holes in the pot leaving enough structure to reinforce the mesh.

 

[matho]

its funny how we all think the same
i was also going to try using the mesh out of an ikea splater guard, my bottom filter needs to be raised by about 5mm to clear the outlet and seal so i was going to sandwich the mesh between two stainless steel sheets cut out like this



bizier if your going to use a bag, you could always get something like this



its very thin stainless steel so you would need to cut out the bottom of the pot like the drawing above, the holes in it are about 6mm in diameter, the bag would be the filter and this would just be a support, i bought one from a hospitality store in campsie for about $20

cheers matho

 

[Bizier]

Are you going to recirc during/after the boil to whirlpool or chill? If so what are you planning to stop hops going through the pump?

In short, yes, though honestly I had not thought about ramifications of hop trub on the little brown wonderpump. I guess I can use braid or something to filter, or even a motorised stirrer on lid for whirlpool action.

If you used a mesh screen like that you could just drill or even jigsaw big holes in the pot leaving enough structure to reinforce the mesh.

I was thinking of cutting out four sections, leaving a cross shape in the bottom, which also allows you to have a bolt which holds your mesh down to avoid movement when you are poking around in there mid-mash.

SS Perf is not ghetto, but Ikea frying pan cover thing totally makes the cut

 

[ausdb]

No. The grain is in the tube. A pump pushes the wort up through the tube (and grain) and spills over the top edge. It's a simple recirc, but up through the grain instead of down.

I've attached a sketch of how it works. I didn't create the sketch. I saved it off another forum, but can't remember which one. Hopefully the author won't mind.

Michael

Geez I wish I had a beer for every time my sketch has been posted on the net!
FWIW it actually originated on AHB a few years ago in the original Allinone thread.

I really must get round to trying to make my own version one day soon.

 

[seemax]

another option I found on ebay for a false bottom are these stainless sieves, available in sizes up to 350mm
would be easy enough to mount this to the inner or outer edge of the grain pot

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sieve-300mm-Fin...=item3f04086c2d

 

[aaronpetersen]

another option I found on ebay for a false bottom are these stainless sieves, available in sizes up to 350mm
would be easy enough to mount this to the inner or outer edge of the grain pot

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sieve-300mm-Fin...=item3f04086c2d

Geez, nothing ghetto about their prices!

 

[Spoonta]

Geez I wish I had a beer for every time my sketch has been posted on the net!
FWIW it actually originated on AHB a few years ago in the original Allinone thread.

I really must get round to trying to make my own version one day soon.

hes back how are you mate :icon_offtopic:

 

[pimpsqueak]

Geez, nothing ghetto about their prices!

I have one you can have for $20 :icon_cheers:

 

[Tim F]

Hows the build going Bizier?

 

[Bizier]

Busy with work, will try to get to ikea fri or sat, asian grocers last week drew a blank on cheap screens. I'm still looking for an enclosure, thinking about even culinary plasticware. I how to break it in over weekend.

 

[Tim F]

I've seen those mesh splatter guards just in the kitchenware section at the supermarket. I just decided to go with RS components from Mathos link above though, $80 odd for 2 x 500mm2 sheets of perforated stainless with 2mm holes including overnight courier. Stretching 'ghetto' but not too far at $40 per sheet.

 

[AlexL]

I'm currently in the process of getting mine sorted out. I've gone with a Brewtroller control system and a 32L main pot and a 15L malt tube. I have a standard kettle element sitting around - is there any issues with scorching the wort due to th concentrated heat in the element?

 

[wobbly]

If you use two say 2400w elements connected in series the end result is 1200w total and only 5 amps. (Ohms Law)

You could then connect a switch across one of the elements so that when it is in the "ON" position it shorts (bypasses) that element and the remaining element is now on full power deliverying 2400w and drawing 10 amps.

If you didn't have room or didn't want to put a second element into the MT/Boiler you could make up a switch box to use external to the MT/Boiler and use say your kitchen kettle as the second element.

Same principle in that the wiring of the switch box would have an incomming lead that was wired to a couple of plug recepticles such that they would effectively be wired in series and the switch would be connected across the output terminals of one of the plug recepticles to "sort it out" when turned on.

Plug the urn into one of the plug recepticles (the one that doesn't have the switch connected across it) and the kettle into the other. Now with the "switch OFF" both the urn element and kettle element will be operting in series and the net effect will be that the element in the urn is only producing 600w into the MT and at the same time the kettle element will be producing 600w just don't forget to fill the jug before turning the power on!!!(total circuit wattage 1200w)

This sort of arrangement (Low watts) could work well for any BIAB set up to maintain the mash temperature without the risk of burning/scortching your bag or scortching the wort.

If/when you want to ramp up the temperature in the MT to become say the boiler just turn the "switch ON" which will "short out" (turn off) the kettle element and return the urn element to 2400w

Cheers

Wobbly

 

[kymba]

while not exactly a braumeister, it is def ghetto. I gave her 2 runs yesterday, both 7L batches

the mash process was: mash in - set PID to 69, tip in grains, stir, set PID to 66, leave for an hour, set pid to 78, recirc for 10 mins then relocate return manifold into kettle. switch off pump, drain bag & remainder of wort in MT into 5L jug

i wanted to use stainless for the hx coil & return manifold but can't do that for a while so i just got 2 rolls of 3m copper from bunnings instead. 1 roll was used in the HX, and while it worked fine for the 7L batch, i think i might put another 3m in there for big batches

the return manifold has 3mm holes (prob. 10 or so?) and seemed to mix the mash up a bit. I just used a capillary tee to join it together. The silicon hose fits tight onto the stem of the tee, no hose clamp needed

I didn't lag the mash tun on purpose, just to see how the hx stood up to the task. once i have the 2nd coil in there i'll hard plumb the inlet & outlet into the wall of the HX so i can put the lid on and limit the faffing about trying to prime the pump. a ramp/soak PID would work so well here - this is my long term goal

behold the crapness!