Extract Sparkling Ale

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Sparkles

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Hi all,
Virgin poster with a passion for Coopers Sparkling Ale MMM beer! I am wanting to move from K&K to Extract (Got a few 19ltr Stainless boilers at big W $11) and have been seaching for a good Extract CSA brew. Got some Pride Ringwood and some Crystal grains any help welcomed. Cheers Brad.
 
Hi all,
Virgin poster with a passion for Coopers Sparkling Ale MMM beer! I am wanting to move from K&K to Extract (Got a few 19ltr Stainless boilers at big W $11) and have been seaching for a good Extract CSA brew. Got some Pride Ringwood and some Crystal grains any help welcomed. Cheers Brad.

http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html

http://www.coopers.com.au/homebrew/hbrew.php?pid=5

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...opic=15469.html

http://www.hbkitreviews.com/index.php
 
Hi all,
Virgin poster with a passion for Coopers Sparkling Ale MMM beer! I am wanting to move from K&K to Extract (Got a few 19ltr Stainless boilers at big W $11) and have been seaching for a good Extract CSA brew. Got some Pride Ringwood and some Crystal grains any help welcomed. Cheers Brad.

Have you considered trying a partial mashing? which is manageable with most standard kitchen equipment. you could use a tin of unhopped extract and add your own ale, wheat and crystal malt and of course POR and don't forget the most critical element "recultured Coopers yeast", wont even get close without the signature yeast!

Cheers,
BB
 
There is a recipe in the recipe DB section for a coopers pale clone. I think it's all grain but you can convert to extract. If you're up for culturing yeast from some Coopers bottles you'll go one step closer to emulating your favourite drop although don't expect to get an exact match.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=21143

Sparkling is also nice and clear so you could try finings and cold conditioning after primary ferment is finished.
 
This is an American attempt that I reckon would be pretty close to the mark, though it might be a little heavy on the late hops. The key with brewing a Coopers style beer is to use the actual Coopers yeast. Culture it up from the bottle yourself or I there's a commercial liquid yeast called Australian Ale. Don't know whether it's Wyeast or White labs.

http://www.byo.com/stories/recipes/article...kling-ale-clone
 
The idea of a CSA is to keep it simple and of course use the real yeast. A brilliant steeping grain to use is Carared, say 100g, and with the POR about 30g for an hour should do the trick, or 20g Superpride for an hour, but no late hop additions at all. It's surprising how much hop you will still get coming through.

Of course late hops will still give a nice beer, but not true to CSA style.
 
Thanks guys, Tried discoloops recipe with CSA culture I've had in the brewin fridge for a fortnight (smelt ok fingers crossed). All was good but I noticed some black dried paint-like swarfs in the boil. Smelt great so I strained into fermenter and no burnt boiler, anyone tell me the problem? Cheers Brad.
 
swarf is the name given to the metal chips/cuttings from when metal is milled or lathed... I'm guessing he just means black bits of crap floating around. That is all I can contribute :icon_cheers:
 
I missed a few Crystal grains straining into the boiler so I'm thinking thats them. She's fartin like Terrence n Phillip so I'll soon see if it was worth the extra effort.
 
Made the recipe discoloop posted (cheers). All seemingly went well, made a 1.5ltr starter 4 CSA tallies, boiled up brew, added hops ect, pitched at 20deg C, fermented at 18-20deg C (fridgemate controller) for 2 weeks Fg 1010, racked at 2deg C for 10 days and kegged yesterday. Problem being I 'think' I have autolysis (hint of Vegemite smell / taste). Any cures? or thoughts on how it could have occoured? I can only assume it started in the 'starter' next to my previous batch (smaller volume getting hotter than shown on fridgemate insulated on fermenter but it seemed to smell ok when I pitched? Cheers Brad.
 
Sparkling is also nice and clear so you could try finings and cold conditioning after primary ferment is finished.

The yeast is as important in sparkling ale as it is in CPA. You wouldnt fine it or cold condition it. "Sparkling" seems a bit of a misnomer these days. I guess at the time it was to differentiate it from brown, black, amber, etc. beers. Much like the not-so-pale-ales of today.
 
The yeast is as important in sparkling ale as it is in CPA. You wouldnt fine it or cold condition it. "Sparkling" seems a bit of a misnomer these days. I guess at the time it was to differentiate it from brown, black, amber, etc. beers. Much like the not-so-pale-ales of today.

Good to know, cheers.
 

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