Esky Mashtun Conversion

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The following offer should not be construed as containing advice that building an esky mashtun and having a single pot is a better way to start AG than BIAB. The offer is made on the basis that the original poster has made the decision to proceed in this manner, and appears to need some help.
Hey Facter

There must be someone bettter qualified than I to offer assistance, given that I am quite tool challenged, and my arm is broken in 2 places and has a cast on it.

But if no one else does offer, and you wait 4 weeks for me to get the cast off, I have one of those roundy roundy noisy things, so feel free to come round and we will get the top off and stick a hole in the bottom while we are at it.
Oh Gee
GL what are you going to manage to cut off, mangle or break this time? :ph34r:

Facter I will stand in as GL's proxy wielder of the roundy roundy noisy thing lest he do some serious damage to himself. I also have a shed full of junk which includes a pointy metal melter glue gun that I haven't learnt to use yet and lots of other good stuff that I can't get to!

Domosura I do like the sound of the electric sparky fire squirtey thingos for cutting stuff, I only have the old skool oxy fire squirty melty thingo for cutting and sticking stuff together :)
 
THanks for all your replies guys, much appreciated ... I do have transport problems atm alas, so that curtails too may long distance form leederville expeditions with two 50 liters stainless vessel things ...

ill have to attack the actual boilers and HLT a bit later I think, I cant even et this stupid esky converted!! I told you I was useless at this stuff!!

I took the bulkhead apart to put it in .. promptly have forgotten which bit goes into where, which bit is suposed to be on the outside .. oh, and it also looks like the bulkhead that I got wont even fit thruogh the esky, unless I am doing something really wrong, which is most likely!!!

.. can anyone point out the (probably obvious) place where I am going wrong? Am I going nuts? Is the actual thread that goes through the esky piece too short?? The sky isnt even really all that thick ...


Meh. Tell me to overhaul an entire windows network and I can do it in a flash ... but put actual tools in my hand, disaster.

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ill have to attack the actual boilers and HLT a bit later I think, I cant even et this stupid esky converted!! I told you I was useless at this stuff!!

I took the bulkhead apart to put it in .. promptly have forgotten which bit goes into where, which bit is suposed to be on the outside .. oh, and it also looks like the bulkhead that I got wont even fit thruogh the esky, unless I am doing something really wrong, which is most likely!!!

.. can anyone point out the (probably obvious) place where I am going wrong? Am I going nuts? Is the actual thread that goes through the esky piece too short?? The sky isnt even really all that thick ...
Meh. Tell me to overhaul an entire windows network and I can do it in a flash ... but put actual tools in my hand, disaster.

The inner part of the esky is the bit you are really trying to seal, so I would be putting the things from the top left corner inside the esky sticking out. As the washer sandwiched against the shoulder of the bulkhead fitting would make a really good seal. The locknut and other washer can then go on the outside of the inner section of esky.

As to the comment about the fitting being too short then I would just cut some of the outer skin and insulation away to allow clearance for the lock nut and the ball valve. If you just try and tighten it up as is between the two skins of the esky with the foam in the middle it will be prone to leaking as the foam compresses over time and use.

Where did you get the fitting from by the way?
 
About the roundy roundy noisy thing, mine was only $14 from kmart including 5 discs. Might be easier than travelling to borrow one!
 
Why does everyone insist on making 23L batches?

If you only have a 20L pot, make 10-15L batches.

That way you get to brew twice as often, and get two different varieties of beer. You also get better experience, and if you completely bugger up your first or second batch you've lost less beer.

Adam
 
that's the attitude Adamt!
one brewer on here continues to brew pathetic excuses, instead of AG beers :p
(gotta love the enthusiastic AHBer who preaches like a holy man but only has experience with can openers)
 
Remember, an angle grinder on a keg is just an upscaled can opener!
 
Facter,

I'm in the same boat with a 20L pot but was still able to get my first AG done last week.

The esky is a 44L (the only size that comes with a tape you can remove). The fittings cost about $30 in Bunnings. No holes no damage to the esky. I can put it back the way it was if required.

I mash in 10L of water plus the grain and the thing is just under half full.

I sparge with 10L in 2 batches. (Oh, and pick up one of the empty fresh wort kit cubes from your HBS, They are very useful. They are only a couple of $$)
The wort goes into the cube and more water heated in the pot.

After all sparging the cube has about 14L of wort. Poured into the 20L pot and done.

The burner is a 3 ring gas burner from a camping store for $25 and a Reg for another $20.
Gas cylinder from the BBQ.

Basically all up (except for the Pot) I got into AG for less than $100.
BOG

please tell me that AG cant be as simple as above :eek: !
Hell Ive a couple of big eskies out in the shed collecting dust (so i dont care if i cut em up), I can even get a hold of a clean 'keggish ...shaped ... metal ... thing' if need be
I can commendeer a 40L ss pot from my old man.
I have natural gas burners/stove inside
I have 4 empty 17L and 25L cubes

Dont tell me that all i have to do is buy $30 of fittings (which Im sure are listed on an AHB thread) and Im set for AG!!
 
OK then, we won't tell you that....:ph34r:

But yes, sounds pretty much like it! Most people make AG out to be this massive, complicated process, when in fact it really isn't. I say, just go for it! It's only as complicated as you make it!

I taught myself, using AHB as backup, as I'm sure quite a few people on here have.

Good Luck!
 
well when you consider an 'esky and pots' v this
BEQHERMS50.jpg

you can see why some people may think theres a bit more to it. Plus most AHB are nuts and the equipment they have could run NASA :excl: :D
 
please tell me that AG cant be as simple as above :eek: !
Hell Ive a couple of big eskies out in the shed collecting dust (so i dont care if i cut em up), I can even get a
Dont tell me that all i have to do is buy $30 of fittings (which Im sure are listed on an AHB thread) and Im set for AG!!

Do your eskies already have drain plugs in them, if so even easier. You don't really even need to drill the esky either it would work just as well with a manifold in the bottom and a siphon tube out over the top. Have a look at www.howtobrew.com for ideas.
 
yup eskies all have drain holes (standard size hole for letting melted ice (aka water) out). damn it. off to how to brew now. well maybe after this stupid meeting I have. damn work getting in the way of brewing :lol:

EDIT: its a damn pain in the arse that I cand find his book in stock anywhere!!

2nd Edit: oopps.. I didnt meant that all eskies have holes. I meant that all my eskies have holes :)
 
not all eskys have drain holes, easy enough to drill one though. have a good read through how to brew first it will teach you a lot about mash temps etc. it's very important with ag to understand why you're doing everything throughout the process.
 
go to www.howtobrew.com the first edition of the book is free to view online
 
please tell me that AG cant be as simple as above :eek: !
Dont tell me that all i have to do is buy $30 of fittings (which Im sure are listed on an AHB thread) and Im set for AG!!

Sadly it really is quite easy. My whole setup for my very first AG cost about $170 and the most expensive thing was the $70 esky.

Simple Breakdown of parts:
1 vessel for boiling (keggy type of SS thingy :p) - Cost: NIL
1 vessel for strike/sparge (I used a spare fermenter pail. It can handle the 80C temps ok) - Cost: NIL
4 kettles (I bought these from Coles @ $9.80 each) - Cost: $39.20
1 esky (From Magnet Mart 55 litres) - Cost: $69.95
2 ball valve taps (Bunnings plumbing section @ 10ish) - Cost: $20
2 threaded pipes and some nuts/washers/clamps (As above) - Cost: $15
1 metre of reinforced tubing (As above) - Cost: $2.50
1 stainless steel plumbing hose (used for braid) (As above) - Cost: $8.00
1 metre piece of copper pipe (As above) - Cost: $12.00

I borrowed a mates angle grinder and bought about 5 1mm disks to open up the "SS thingy". I had a drill and a half round ******* already to do the holes for the kettles elements and the taps.

Oh I also already had a probe cooking thermometer which I used for the strike/sparge water and checking the mash.

I'm "No chilling" so I didn't need a chiller plate. I just dump into a fermenter strained through a basic kitchen strainer and then leave overnight.

Easy.

I made a video of my last brew with this setup and plan to put the parts up on Youtube at some stage (I need to shrink the size a bit). I reckon a lot of people are put off by the bling on display in this forum. The video will show how basic it really can be.

Cheers
Troy

Edit: I am now in the process of upgrading bits and peices week by week. I've added dial temp gauges to the Mash Tun and HLT and I've got a falsie on order from BeerBelly (yay).
 
I'm "No chilling" so I didn't need a chiller plate. I just dump into a fermenter strained through a basic kitchen strainer and then leave overnight.

This line has me a bit concerned, Troy. Does that mean that the beer is getting aerated as it's going into the fermenter, still hot? :unsure:
 
I would say so shrek , however how does this differ to aerating the wort straight before pitching?
 
I would say so shrek , however how does this differ to aerating the wort straight before pitching?


Sorry for going off topic. I think Stu is referring to the mythical Hot Side Aeration.
Cheers
Steve
 

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