EOI PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE.

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with all due respect the accuracy of a 30 psi gauge at 2 psi wouldnt be great, i suggest you use a manometer for your testing.
That isn't one of the $2 / 30 psi gauges and I did check them, I have three all accurate and measuring the same.
If you haven't had to clean the poppet valve you're using now why would you have to clean the diaphragm valve?
If you read post 235 you would know why I don't have to clean my poppet valve, any sugary condensate will either end up in the loop of the tubing, the secondary or the manifold, If I ever did use a diaphragm valve it would have to be before the manifold and the well in the diaphragm valve would fill with condensate, especially for those people who will be mounting it close to the outlet of their fermenters.
 
That isn't one of the $2 / 30 psi gauges and I did check them, I have three all accurate and measuring the same.

If you read post 235 you would know why I don't have to clean my poppet valve, any sugary condensate will either end up in the loop of the tubing, the secondary or the manifold, If I ever did use a diaphragm valve it would have to be before the manifold and the well in the diaphragm valve would fill with condensate, especially for those people who will be mounting it close to the outlet of their fermenters.

This is no different with the diaphragm valve though. You can place the diaphragm valve a long way from your fermented if you want to. You can also use a small air receiver between the fermenter and the diaphragm valve. You could even use a spare keg for this purpose so there are definitely ways of separating the blow of from the diaphragm valve if you can be bothered. You can make a small receiver tank out of a coke bottle if you want to.
 
Which is exactly what I have done, it takes care of whichever valve being used and more importantly the gauge. But looking at most set ups that others they have the gauge and the valve directly tied to the fermenter.
 
Which is exactly what I have done, it takes care of whichever valve being used and more importantly the gauge. But looking at most set ups that others they have the gauge and the valve directly tied to the fermenter.

That's fantastic. So sounds like you will have no issue with getting any liquid into the BlowTie Diaphragm valve in that case. Sounds like you have done a good job of eliminating any chance of liquid getting downstream into the spunding valve. Good work!
 
That's fantastic. So sounds like you will have no issue with getting any liquid into the BlowTie Diaphragm valve in that case. Sounds like you have done a good job of eliminating any chance of liquid getting downstream into the spunding valve. Good work!
But I have the luxury of a fermenting room, most guys have to ferment in a fridge so not a lot of space for them.
 
Hey guys,

Would anyone be interested in doing a side by side comparison with our new BlowTie and other pressure relief valves they have used?

https://www.kegland.com.au/blowtie-diaphragm-spunding-valve-adjustable-pressure-relief-valve.html

These use a diaphragm and we've found you can achieve better control pressures.
Test it against your own poppet valve.


Hey guys. Seeing as you guys are all talking about spunding valves i was wondering if you could give us some advice on which option you guys would prefer. I dont think we will stock both optoins so we will either stock option 1 or option 2.

We have started to manufactur a stainless spunding valve and we have completed the testing but we are trying to work out if we make them with 8mm push in or make them with FFL thread so they fit onto the MFL disconnects. If we use the 8mm push in we can configure them in many different ways as we have a growing number of push in fittings that we are making at the moment.

Option 1
As you can see below option 1 is so you can attach the stainless spunding valve directly to the disconnect. This will be the cheapest option as the spunding valve will sell for about $9.95 and the ball lock disconnects we currently sell the for about $3 each. The issue is that you dont know what pressure it's set to.
spunding%20valve%20to%20go%20directly%20onto%20the%20MFL%20ball%20lock%20disconnect-01.jpg
 
Test it against your own poppet valve.


Hey guys. Seeing as you guys are all talking about spunding valves i was wondering if you could give us some advice on which option you guys would prefer. I dont think we will stock both optoins so we will either stock option 1 or option 2.

We have started to manufactur a stainless spunding valve and we have completed the testing but we are trying to work out if we make them with 8mm push in or make them with FFL thread so they fit onto the MFL disconnects. If we use the 8mm push in we can configure them in many different ways as we have a growing number of push in fittings that we are making at the moment.

Option 1
As you can see below option 1 is so you can attach the stainless spunding valve directly to the disconnect. This will be the cheapest option as the spunding valve will sell for about $9.95 and the ball lock disconnects we currently sell the for about $3 each. The issue is that you dont know what pressure it's set to.
spunding%20valve%20to%20go%20directly%20onto%20the%20MFL%20ball%20lock%20disconnect-01.jpg
I like the idea of FFL over push in... However how would you know what psi you're set to? Usually you need a tee with a gauge, which didn't look like it will be possible with the design shown.
 
I like the idea of FFL over push in... However how would you know what psi you're set to? Usually you need a tee with a gauge, which didn't look like it will be possible with the design shown.

I used to use a technique that you could use with that small ffl thread PRV.

Adjust the main regulator to get the pressure to be a bit above what you want as your release pressure while having CO2 from the reg attached into to the liquid out post (like the Ross keg carb method),

This is while having the PRV attached at the gas in post and screwed down tight (max relief pressure)

Then i'd turn off the CO2 at the bottle and adjust the PRV screw out, until the regulator needle moves downward, hopefully i would be fine enough with my adjustment to get the relief pressure i wanted.

I was sort of happy to set and forget this way, as I felt the low accuracy of the valve I had didn't justify getting a new gauge.
 
I like the idea of FFL over push in... However how would you know what psi you're set to? Usually you need a tee with a gauge, which didn't look like it will be possible with the design shown.

With the new design of these the stainless part will be push in as well so you just need to use a push in tee piece and then you can push the Gauge into this.
 
I used to use a technique that you could use with that small ffl thread PRV.

Adjust the main regulator to get the pressure to be a bit above what you want as your release pressure while having CO2 from the reg attached into to the liquid out post (like the Ross keg carb method),

This is while having the PRV attached at the gas in post and screwed down tight (max relief pressure)

Then i'd turn off the CO2 at the bottle and adjust the PRV screw out, until the regulator needle moves downward, hopefully i would be fine enough with my adjustment to get the relief pressure i wanted.

I was sort of happy to set and forget this way, as I felt the low accuracy of the valve I had didn't justify getting a new gauge.
 
Test it against your own poppet valve.


Hey guys. Seeing as you guys are all talking about spunding valves i was wondering if you could give us some advice on which option you guys would prefer. I dont think we will stock both optoins so we will either stock option 1 or option 2.

We have started to manufactur a stainless spunding valve and we have completed the testing but we are trying to work out if we make them with 8mm push in or make them with FFL thread so they fit onto the MFL disconnects. If we use the 8mm push in we can configure them in many different ways as we have a growing number of push in fittings that we are making at the moment.

Option 1
As you can see below option 1 is so you can attach the stainless spunding valve directly to the disconnect. This will be the cheapest option as the spunding valve will sell for about $9.95 and the ball lock disconnects we currently sell the for about $3 each. The issue is that you dont know what pressure it's set to.
spunding%20valve%20to%20go%20directly%20onto%20the%20MFL%20ball%20lock%20disconnect-01.jpg
Whats option 2 ? Can only see option 1.
 
Whats option 2 ? Can only see option 1.
The other option was doing it with push in fittings so that you didn't need to attach it directly.
I think it was just a proposal though, I don't think they actually stock it.

And as WEAL says, they already have the plastic valve, so 3 might be a bit much.
 
I don't think they have either 1 or 2 they found they could make more money out of the plastic diaphragm valves.

The stainless push in optoin will be available soon. The magins on both the Blowtie unit and the Stainless units are the same.

Its important to remember that the Blowtie unit also has some injection molded tooling but the stainless one did not have as much tooling required. So this tooling cost had to be amortised over the unit cost for the product.

"wide eyed and legless" - In the most polite way I can say this it might be worth you doing some research into plastic injection moulded tooling. I think you will soon work out that the designing and paying for injection moulds is not cheap. So even though the unit cost once the initial spend is lower this tooling cost needs to get paid for somehow.

Once you take into account the tooling cost spread over the first 2 years of sales the Blowtie, both units have the same margin structure. But I guess if you want something that is innovative, new and works better then someone has to pay for this R&D and tooling.

From our perspective the spring and poppet type of spunding valve has limitations that are explained in this video that has just been uploaded:


Then a more general video no setting it up:


We will still sell both types in the future, but to be quite honest, having used both types I can say the Blowtie definitely works better on all experiments that we have done. We have already started to send some of the Blowtie units out so what would be nice is to get some feedback from people who have used both types and see what they think.

wide eyed and legless - As mentioned previously why not pop into KegLand in Springvale and we would be more than happy to give you a free demo and then give you a free unit to try out yourself. We notice you live just round the corner in Mulgrave. It would probably make more sense for you to comment on both options once you have tried both options.
 
The video is a bit of a waste of time, you spend more time bagging the poppet valve, which by the way is the 'go to valve' for home brewers and your own diaphragm valve connect it to a keg with 5psi in it?
It seems extremely strange that you didn't connect it to the gas bottle set it to 5 psi then increase the pressure so the guys watching the video could see it vent, or isn't the diaphragm valve capable of that.
I can set my poppet valve to 2.5 -3 psi just a smidgen over that it will vent.

As for tooling yes I do know how much it costs, I imported some (a lot) adjustable flow control valves made from stainless steel and HDPE, they cost me $0.44 USD I won't say how much I was selling them for but at the moment they are at $0.62 USD and are $27.00 AUD retail. Big money in plastic items.
 
The stainless push in optoin will be available soon. The magins on both the Blowtie unit and the Stainless units are the same.

Its important to remember that the Blowtie unit also has some injection molded tooling but the stainless one did not have as much tooling required. So this tooling cost had to be amortised over the unit cost for the product.

wide eyed and legless - As mentioned previously why not pop into KegLand in Springvale and we would be more than happy to give you a free demo and then give you a free unit to try out yourself. We notice you live just round the corner in Mulgrave. It would probably make more sense for you to comment on both options once you have tried both options.

Hmm so the squeaky wheel gets the oil. :)
The videos are probably valid in what they say, but I'm more interested in the specific application most of us would use them for.
Who cares about 2 psi? not me!

I've got 2 corny kegs so I could compare and I'm neither pro or anti in the KK KL politics.
I buy from whoever gives me good price/service.

Already have the poppet style valve, wanna hit me up with a blowtie?
If it works as well or better then good advertising for you.
 
Hmm so the squeaky wheel gets the oil. :)
The videos are probably valid in what they say, but I'm more interested in the specific application most of us would use them for.
Who cares about 2 psi? not me!

I've got 2 corny kegs so I could compare and I'm neither pro or anti in the KK KL politics.
I buy from whoever gives me good price/service.

Already have the poppet style valve, wanna hit me up with a blowtie?
If it works as well or better then good advertising for you.
What PSI were you thinking of fermenting at?
 

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