Electric Kettle Advice

[jackson]

Hi Guys,
I'm currently in the process of building an electric kettle using a 70l ss pot & 2 x 2200w elements.

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=3853

I would of preferred installing the elements side by side however pot being round this is not an option, unless the pot is modified with a flat plate.
My problem is I would have to install the elements vertically on top of each other. Has anyone done this and has there been any issues with it. I just want to make sure before I drill a couple of 32mm holes in my new pot.

 

[~MikE]

Hi Guys,
I'm currently in the process of building an electric kettle using a 70l ss pot & 2 x 2200w elements.

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=3853

I would of preferred installing the elements side by side however pot being round this is not an option, unless the pot is modified with a flat plate.
My problem is I would have to install the elements vertically on top of each other. Has anyone done this and has there been any issues with it. I just want to make sure before I drill a couple of 32mm holes in my new pot.

i would just mount one near the bottom and another a little further up and around so they cross over a little, i can't see why it would cause any issues.

also viva l'electric!

 

[Fourstar]

that and two seperate circuits to run both elements at once.

 

[Cortez The Killer]

I've installed 2 in a distilled water device and put them in perpendicular to each other

There's probably 10mm between them where they cross

Cheers

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

you could easly mount them horizontal, opposite each other.

When you drill your mounting hole, just tap it flat with a hammer and use a silicon washer made from one of those flexibal baking trays..they are about 2-3mm thick and work great.

 

[rich_lamb]

Or you could do some "forging" on your pot - meaning whack the area you are going to drill until it flattens enough to fit the elements side by side. You will need to carefully flatten the area after getting medieval on it, so you get a good seal.

Or you could fix-mount a single 2200W element and use a 2200W portable/stirring element to heat to the boil. The separate plugs might make it easier for you to connect to separate 10A circuits when using them.

Just chuckin out random thoughts here.

EDIT: I see Stu has already suggested bending...

 

[jackson]

Thanks Guys perpendicular it is (90 degrees I had to look it up) & 10-20 mm gap between them

Cheers

 

[Rodolphe01]

mounting them vertically on top of each other just isn't sexy, perpendicular sword crossing for sure

 

[raven19]

I like the suggestion above of introducing an over the side element. These are great for many applications in the brewery too.

 

[argon]

i'll be installing a second one soon to convert my HLT to a keggle. I see no problem putting it directly above the first one. The wort will boil no matter how they are arranged.

 

[jackson]

4400w of power it better boil

 

[argon]

the only thing i'll need to be aware of is how i control the vigour of the boil. I do double batches and get pretty close to the top of the kettle. 2200w won't be enough for 40L to boil with any vigour, but i reckon 4400w will be pretty violent. Need to come up with a way of controlling the power to the element so that they may be tweaked to my requirements.

 

[Maheel]

the only thing i'll need to be aware of is how i control the vigour of the boil. I do double batches and get pretty close to the top of the kettle. 2200w won't be enough for 40L to boil with any vigour, but i reckon 4400w will be pretty violent. Need to come up with a way of controlling the power to the element so that they may be tweaked to my requirements.

Phase Angle Power Control Module might be a good option so you can change the power easily on the 2nd element ? go from 2200 -> 4400 just turning a dial


DIY opiton http://australia.rs-online.com/web/0841924.html
bit more ready made http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/...t&R=0655644

i have built the DIY and use it on a 2200W keggel

 

[Maheel]

use a silicon washer made from one of those flexibal baking trays..they are about 2-3mm thick and work great.

thank you very much Ducatiboy!!! this solves a issue i have

 

[jackson]

Phase Angle Power Control Module might be a good option so you can change the power easily on the 2nd element ? go from 2200 -> 4400 just turning a dial


DIY opiton http://australia.rs-online.com/web/0841924.html
bit more ready made http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/...t&R=0655644

i have built the DIY and use it on a 2200W keggel

Wow Thanks Maheel thats a great option. Does it give you much control

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Phase Angle Power Control Module might be a good option so you can change the power easily on the 2nd element ? go from 2200 -> 4400 just turning a dial


DIY opiton http://australia.rs-online.com/web/0841924.html
bit more ready made http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/...t&R=0655644

i have built the DIY and use it on a 2200W keggel

You could also make up closed loop control with a temp sensor to use in a mash tun/HLT/Herms-RIMS setup

 

[argon]

i was just thinking of connecting one of the the elements through a PID or tempmate, have it set at 105 degrees or so (tweak it to where i think i have correct vigour) Just have the other 2200w element on at 100%. I figure i should be able to dial it in fairly easily.

 

[Maheel]

Wow Thanks Maheel thats a great option. Does it give you much control

yes it gives good variable control, has a little lag as the element needs to change temp of the wort / water / etc

i actually need to test it with a multimeter to check it goes from 0 -> 240 v but it seems to based on light bulb test and changing rate of boil.
i built mine as a stand alone box allowing it to be used on other elements and things. plug control into power, plug element into control box
i have not tested on more than around 25L, I reckon 40L woudl need to elements

 

[Maheel]

i was just thinking of connecting one of the the elements through a PID or tempmate, have it set at 105 degrees or so (tweak it to where i think i have correct vigour) Just have the other 2200w element on at 100%. I figure i should be able to dial it in fairly easily.

a tempmate might create a surging effect where the 2nd elly turns on and off where the Phase angle keeps the heat on just "less" heat

same with a PID dont think the PID would be able to control the element in the way you need it boiling wort ? and might create a surging boil doing "on and off" ? but i have NFI really with PIDS

 

[jackson]

yes it gives good variable control, has a little lag as the element needs to change temp of the wort / water / etc

i actually need to test it with a multimeter to check it goes from 0 -> 240 v but it seems to based on light bulb test and changing rate of boil.
i built mine as a stand alone box allowing it to be used on other elements and things. plug control into power, plug element into control box
i have not tested on more than around 25L, I reckon 40L woudl need to elements

Looks like the phase angle controller can drop the voltage to about 170v

I= P/V 2200w @ 240v give current of about 9.16 amps
R =V/I 240/9.16 = 26 ohms

I = V/R =170v x 26 = 6.5 amps

P = V x I = 170v x 6.5 amps = 1100 w

So you would have control from 1100w element through to 2200w

My calc's may be wrong school was over 20 years ago.